I hope to finish up wire brushing and painting my rear wheel weight this weekend. I'm going to start out with both weights on the land side of the tractor, last year was wetter than usual, but when plowing the land side tire was turning twice as fast as the furrow wheel.

Does anyone know what size/length bolts I need to mount the first weight? I'm thinking I can use hex head bolts for the first weight, then the second weight attaches to the first using square head bolts?

Then I'm thinking about bolting a freshly painted cast iron weight to a freshly painted cast iron wheel center, considering trying to fit in some square radiator/gas tank mounting pads. Anyone try putting rubber between the weight at wheel to save on paint touch ups later?

Per my Farmall H Parts Catalog it calls for 3/4" X 4 3/4" NC machine bolts for the first set along with lockwashers and hex nuts. For the second set use 3/4" X 3 3/4" NC machine bolts along with the lockwashers and hex nuts. It also calls for regular 1 1//4" OD X 25/32" ID 10 gauge thick washers.
I've never put more then one set on a cast center so don't have anything to add about a spacer between the two sets. Good luck on getting them on the tractor as it will require some mechanical hands or some good friends to help, Hal.

Thanks Hal, you always provide great information, I hope to send you a picture of the rear wheels, rims, and tires soon.

I cheat , i use grade five all thread and a half nut and full nut to hold the all thread to the wheel then just start to stack the weights on then when i have enough on a heavy flat washer and a nut that way i can put five or six weights on the land side and four or five on the furrow side as needed some times ya may need two extra on the land side .Even with loaded tires i will run extra weight on both sides and enough on the ft . so that she will just bob a little on a real hard pull on the hills , really hate looking down the exhaust pipe . Rented a farm back years ago that had not been plowed in at least thirty five years and had cattle run on the whole place that long . Now you want to talk about hard plowing . I had a 67 706 gasser that ran well and a set of 710 4x16's behind it with all new iron on the plow set for 8-10 inches deep . when i dropped the plow in the ground i was in forth low with the T/A pulled back and as soon as the plow sunk in it killed the tractor . Oh my this is hard so dropped back to third low with the stick back and tryed again and promptly pulled the fast hitch bundle out from under the tractor shearing off the bolts . Dropped the plow and back to the shop for repairs . Installed new grade 8 bolts and lets try this again added a full rack of 100lbs suitcase weights and figured that was enough , nope she would stand straight up end up hanging two more wheel weights to the ft. and had to drop to second low . a friend came to help me with a 1086 with five bottoms and he could not even get into third gear and keep the ft on the ground with 1200 on the nose . That was the toughest 78 acres i have ever plowed . You could not even touch the moldboards because of the heat .Most of the time the ft of the 706 was a foot or two off the ground .

in my opinion the use of buffers will not work well to protect paint. The buffers, to be effective, would need to be rather thin and cover a modestly widr area of contact. (10 square inches each at three points or 4) The buffers would need to be rigid enough to not flex with the rotating weight, and thus would compress into the fresh paint and become more difficult to remove than a few nicks. Jim

The paint will stick to the pads and peel off when you remove the weights anyway.

I think you will find it works better with two weights on the land side with one weight on the furrow wheel. If it continues to slip badly, duals on the landside is what we used.