won't start

blunted

Member
how's everyone. bin awile. 39 A crank with mag. in time, good spark, cleaned carb. no gas to cylinders, but squirted gas in cylinders and wont pop. help;; thanks, blunted.
 
The rotor is possibly out of time with the breaker cam. The little gears must be in time. Search for Timing mag rotor for help. Jim
 
You need to remove the cap and check if the rotor is lined up with the tower when it snaps. Do you have spark to the plugs i would remove all plugs so the crank is easier to turn over hook one wire to a grounded plug then you will see if it has spark to the plugs also check the wires to see if they are correct with the firing order. #1 is the front cycl and the firing position of the rotor is like the 1 oclock position as the rotor does turn cw. Before removing cap mark on the body of the mag where #1 wire goes it will make it easier to see if the rotor is at that position when cranking. You will need someone to crank while another person watches the rotor snap. The rotor needs to be rite on and not a tooth off either way. Firing order is on the block double check that the wires are going correct on the cap.
 
funny thing of it all, its been running fine since rebuild, but gadguly got worse and now confusion. rechecked timing, points,plugs, even tappits
 
What do you mean by "no gas to cylinders"? Or did you fix that by cleaning the carb?

Just squirting a little gas in the cylinders to get it to fire is far from a sure thing.

Spraying some starter fluid through the carb while cranking it is more reliable if you just want it to run for a few seconds. Don't go crazy with the stuff. Just do it once or twice.

That'll at least show you that everything (but the carb) is in the right ballpark.
 
A loose intake manifold will do it, as will a manifold cracked between the intake and the exhaust stove in the middle center area (invisible from outside) Jim
 
cleaned the carb. would the governer have any thing to do with it? only put a new bearing in that on rebuild. and i mite try starter fluid. all the carb parts seam to be free of any debrie.
 
I'd personnaly go right to the starting fluid. If it fires up you can be fairly sure the problems on the intake side of things. If it doesn't it's less usefull, but points generally to the ignition/timing side of things.

Can't see the governor being too much of a problem on start up. SHOULD start whether the carb's open or closed or anywhere in between.

It's very common for these things to get flooded and be tough to start.

Watch for dripping gas from the carb. If you see that, you might try shutting the gas off to the carb, let it sit for 10 minutes then try starting it for a while (with the gas off) - if it fires up at any point, even for a few seconds, you know your carb's flooding.

Again - there are so many variables, as pointed out by others.

To me, starting fluid is a quick way to rule out half of them. Won't give you an absolute definitive answer, but it'll let you make an educated guess on where to go next instead of randomly trying things.
 
(quoted from post at 04:50:48 03/21/12) What do you mean by "no gas to cylinders"? Or did you fix that by cleaning the carb?

Just squirting a little gas in the cylinders to get it to fire is far from a sure thing.

Spraying some starter fluid through the carb while cranking it is more reliable if you just want it to run for a few seconds. Don't go crazy with the stuff. Just do it once or twice.

That'll at least show you that everything (but the carb) is in the right ballpark.

I usually use carb cleaner. It is a little better for the engine and I figure it might clean a few things and that can't hurt.
 

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