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Problems with my 12v conversion.

S

State of Jefferson

Member
Been a couple good rainy days here, so I finally got my SMTA in the shop and got to re-working the wiring.
I decided to go with a Hitachi 14231 Alternator. I followed the Reworked Version of Bob M's wiring diagram, that was posted a few days ago by Jason the Red (see link below, I hope...)

Everything seems to be working fine. Good reading on the ampmeter, Solid 14+ volts at the battery when running. Problem is when I hit the kill switch, it doesn't kill.
My weak minded diagnosis is that I'm getting charging voltage from the L terminal on the alt-back to the ignition switch, which is providin voltage to the coil?? When I remove that wire from the ignition switch, it works as it should.
Is my alternator bad? I'm stumped.

Thanks in advance.

Ben
Untitled URL Link
 
The wire from the L terminal to the ignition system must have either a 10 ohm 10 watt resistor, or a 3 amp 100piv diode (band end to L terminal, not ign)
or a marker light bulb (no bigger, and not LED based)
This addition to the wire connecting "L" to the ignition limits the reverse flow of voltage from the internal regulator to the coil. It isn't charging current, it is, however, able to supply enough voltage to run the engine. Jim
 
[q
uote="State of Jefferson"](reply to post at 12:24:57 03/17/12) [/quote]
I used the same diagram on my H and used the diode instead of light bulb. No problems here but maybe double check your wiring.
 
The diode, or light bulb, or Resistor (not a ballast resistor, it must be a 10 ohm to 20 ohm regular electric component resistor) is shown in the diagram. THe numbering of the notes might allow the belief that the Ballast resistor could be used. Not true, only note 1 and note 3, Jim
 
Try it with a diode, (also measure the resistance of the bulb, if it is less than 10 ohms it might just keep it running. Next step is to put the 10 ohm resistor in the line with the the light bulb (series) Jim
 
I think I know my problem. I have it wired so the light is run by that voltage; one wire goes to the L terminal wire, the other to ground. I'll rewire it so it's "inline", just a resistor.

Of course, now my starter has decided to quit, so I can't try it all out. Don't wanna break an arm cranking by hand...

Thanks for all the help.

ben
 
(quoted from post at 15:27:07 03/17/12) The wire from the L terminal to the ignition system must have either a 10 ohm 10 watt resistor, or a 3 amp 100piv diode (band end to L terminal, not ign)
or a marker light bulb (no bigger, and not LED based)
This addition to the wire connecting "L" to the ignition limits the reverse flow of voltage from the internal regulator to the coil. It isn't charging current, it is, however, able to supply enough voltage to run the engine. Jim
Click to expand...

One thing that is often overlooked when discussing the need for a resistor or diode in this circuit is that, while it is not intended to carry charging current, if the wire between the battery and alternator should become disconnected or develop high resistance, all the charging current will travel down this circuit. The resistor/diode will protect the wiring from being over loaded.
 
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