Checking out a Super A-V

Any heads-up issues with the hi-crop version of the Super A? I understand it is a Super A with taller tires. Is that all there is to it?

Basically, yes. But IH did nothing to the transmission or final drives to correct for the ground speed, which is already too fast on the Super A for many jobs. But I have never driven an A or SAV.

Along with CKNS said, check the front end for breaks and welds as they can take a pounding and also final drives as well.

Andrew

Spindles up front are taller too on the AV/SAV. With cultivators and good tires, a nice SAV around here might bring $2500-$3500. As others have said check for cracks and welds up front and around the top of the final drive. If the wheels have been spaced out wide, there is more strain on the bearings, castings, and axles.

Thanks, guys. I hope the farmer knows about the ground speed...I may wind up being the operator, so we'll find out what that all means.

I'll check out the front end and hams. I welded a B-275 back together, so I will be observant of cracks starting!

I have a super A and I will second that ground speed issue.

With rocky new england soil, plowing a new area, even in first at low idle, can get pretty painful.

(in fairness to the machine, my low speed may have been set to high - I don't know)

I can't imagine having bigger wheels - it'll definitely be worse.

Aside from plowing, the speed hasn't been too much of an issue for me.

On my super a - the pivot pin on the front axle - that attaches the tractor to the axle - the weld was broken on the axle where the pin mounts through. Tough to spot so look closely.

I'd expect the hydraulic pump to be leaking fluid into the crankcase, but not sure there's any way to find out other than ask the seller. If he hasn't fixed it himself, it probably IS. That's probably a $50 fix all said and done.

I'd also expect the steering to be very loose. Anything more than 1/4 turn of the steering wheel, before the wheels move, would be considered very loose. But again, that's normal wear unless he fixed it himself.
Either way, it's an $80 fix.

Might try looking at the lights with the tractor off and after starting - see how much they change. My lights simply didn't work on mine (and I'm restoring it all now so I can't check) so I can't tell you exactly what to expect - but if they brighten up when it's started, at least it tells you the generator's generating.
If not - figure anywhere from 50 to 150 to fix that. (might be converted to 12v alternator)

Take a close look into the gas tank - look for rust spots - check the bottom of the tank on the outside. Rusted out tanks aren't fun to fix.
If it looks suspicious - figure 150 for a new one.

The little "tool box" under the seat typically rust out - 50 bucks if you want a new one.

Drive it in all gears - 3rd, and especially 4th will probably whine pretty loudly - that's normal. But listen for any clunking, grinding, skipping gears or otherwise mechanically bad
sounds. Do the same with PTO - engage it and make sure it sounds normal.
Any loud crunches or knocking, I'd probably just walk away.

If you can, hang some weight on the rear rockshafts and lift and lower it with the hydraulics - they should be smooth and fairly quick. If not - maybe an easy fix, maybe not - assume at least 130 for a touch control rebuild kit. (or just as much for a used hydraulic pump - depends on what the problem is)

Check the block carefully for any freeze cracks - along the flat sides.

The radiator mounts no the bottom of the radiator are a weak spot. There are two - they are studs coming straight down from the bottom of the raidiator into the front frame. Look around there for drips. If you find some - hard to say, but probably not an expensive fix - call it 50 bucks for pricing purposes.

Obviously blue smoke is burning oil. If you get a bunch on start up or with a change in engine rpm - it probably needs valve seals - a relatively big fix, but that's also something you can just live with for a while.

other than that I can't think of anything specific to them that would be a common problem to watch out for.

They're pretty solid machines.



Sorry for the mile long reply - I type very fast so I often type too much!

JR,

That is a great checklist for him and can't think of anything else other than the rims. Check to see if they're good and not rusted out. Those high crop rims aren't ones you can find at your local tractor salvage yard.

Also, I have several of these tractors myself (not high crop), and didn't realize you could fix the steering so cheaply. I thought if you have slack in the steering, you simply had to find a tighter front end to bolt on. I would be VERY intrested in learning how to diagnose, and fix the loose steering issue. Most of my tractors are loose in the steering shaft/worm gear area. THANKS!

"I'd have written a shorter letter, but didn't have the time". -Rene Descartes

Very thorough list, much appreciated, especially the estimates of costs. I'll give it the once over, and if I have any issues that I can't figure out, you're on the short list of go-to guys.

Might post a pic at some time.

Thanks,
Colin