Splitting an 826 for a clutch have a few questions??

I am getting ready to split an 826 to replace the clutch and the ipto shaft,(no brakes pto steering etc) I am ready to split the tractor and want to run the plan past someone. First I plan to use a jack stand under each of the frame rails in the front the jack stands are rated for 6 tons each. I then plan to use a floor jack under the transmission and have it run in steel channel on the floor so it doesn't move when i am splitting the front and back. Does the thinner part of the bell housing remain attached to the engine and the frame rails on the front half to provide support for the back of the engine? I'm sure I will have more questions as I go.

Thanks,
Jeff

Your just asking for an accident!Go find a real splitting stand!We dont want anyone hurt!I'm not quite sure what you mean by"the thin part of the bell housing"Be safe!!!

yep, thats why an accident happens, cause the person is not qualified or trained to do the job at hand. as in a lot of the questions asked here thats so easy to see. yes sir... safety starts with you.
when i do a split i use wood blocking under the rear half with slight pressure on them . then just roll the front out and the rear dont budge.

Here is a picture of a splitting stand shown on a 1086 tractor. I have designed this stand with my 40 plus years of tractor experience. My e-mail is open. You can also check out my web site at www dot charliesrepair dot com Just be carfull, Engines are heavy and they are no fun to pick up off the floor BTDT. Make sure you split carefully. If you are close to Southern Minnesota, I will rent you a set of stands.
Charlie

Alwright ya want to split your tractor , first ya do not want to roll the back away , that is the heavy end . Ya need splitting stands no if an's or buts about it . you are working on a hunk of iron that weights in at anywhere between 10500 lbs and 14500 . The set that was showen IMHO are a bit flimsy but if they work for him so be it. I have no idea where your located so unless your real close to me your sorta on your own . I have two sets of splitting stands , one set i made and the other set is regular set or I H stands that i can split even the four wheel drives. Ya want a set that are adjustable for up and down and from side to side and ya really want bigger caster wheels . The main thing here is a good level or close to it smooth concrete floor . When you think that you have it all blocked and on the stands when you split it apart the alignment will change so you will have to readjust when you go back together. when you remove the bolts holding the engine to the center section you do not remove the bolts you leave atleast the top ones on each side and the bottom ones in on both sides this holds the rear of the engine held to the frame rails if you do not do this then you will break the ft. mounts off the timing cover . Once apart ya want to remove the flywheel and have it reground and it is heavy and sharp it will cut you big time just ask my buddy that knows everything. when you start putting it back together you want to depress the levers on the pressure plate and put 1/4 inch nuts under the levers or finger to hold them down. Then you do not hang the clutch and pressure plate on the flywheel you hang them on the input shaft and slid the tractor back together and bolt the frame rails back up to the center section . Once that is done then you work up thru the inspection hole and bolt the pressure plate to the fly wheel , it is a whole bunch easier. Then ya read back in the archives on how to adjust the clutch trans brake and dump valve as i have made many ah posts on this .Ya got problems just ask me or Pete or owen . We made our living working on I H tractors for years.

Jeff the info presented here is correct! Don't take short cuts. It's not nearly as hard as you would think but it has to be done in a safe manner. I did my first 2 tractor splits last year. A good Friend who has a nice shop and the proper equipment like splitting stands, walked me through the first one so I could learn, a 1586 and then just kinda watched while I did my 1206. Now I replaced my rear engine seal while it was split along with the IPTO shaft and related seals and gaskets there. All total ran about 1100 dollars for parts and having the flywheel faced.

Rick

The "thin part of the bell housing" you are talking about is the rear engine mounting plate.

Yes, it does stay with the front half of the tractor.

Listen to these guys. Rolling the rear half away with a floor jack is the HARD and DANGEROUS way. Build, beg, borrow, rent, or steal a splitting stand.

The splitting stand doesn't have to be complicated. Dad built one that is a simple "H" made from heavy 4" channel and a 4" I-beam. Big heavy axle and heavy steel rollers harvested from the ends of junk silo unloader augers.

It is long enough that it will not fit under the tractor vertically. Rather, it leans back at an angle when attached. A large turnbuckle and chain run from the axle on the stand to the wishbone on the front end. That holds the rear of the engine up and allows you to control height.

Advice taken....I will build a set of splitting stands. I was approaching the clutch job on the tractor in the same manner as when I do a clutch on a truck or such where you remove the tranny as opposed to the engine.

if i can load a pic the stands i ues very simple fit all different type tract

Here is a couple of pics of some we built 20 years ago. The have worked well over the years and most of the neighbors have borrowed and used them, too. They were roughly copied off some at the IH dealer. The tractor apart on it is a 1206.