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How to Break it Loose

Were it mine, I would clean and wire brush the upper part of those two cylinders. Then, if they were surface rusted, and not pitted deeply, I would determine which way they were headed so as to not try to reverse the engine (assumes the crank is in it, and rods attached) and I would use a end grain block of hard wood and a mallet to shock them some. Then pour in a quarter cup of ATF (all cylinders) and then put some forward pressure on them.
Put the tractor in High Gear direct drive (not TA), then take a 14 foot 4X4 and chain it to one rear wheel front and back so it sticks forward and is 4 feet off the ground. in front. Hang about 250 pounds of sand in buckets or other weight on the 4X4 at the far front end. Heating the block with a heat gun for an hour is also a positive thing to do. do not heat the pistons as much as the cylinder, It is intended to enlarge the cylinder to free the piston and rings. Removing the starter, and or bumping the starter (if the electrical system is still intact) is also positive. If a sleeve comes up with a piston, so be it. Remove it as a unit. Jim
 
I use a cylinder hone. The kind with the three grind stones.

Just go real easy with it.

I do that to get most of the heavy stuff out. Then would dump some atf in there and let it sit over night.

Only then would I think about trying to break it free. I put a short 2x4 or whatever fits into the cylinder and smack it with a heavy hammer.

Usually that's enough to get them moving. Keep wiping and cleaning.
 
(quoted from post at 21:55:12 03/12/12) Were it mine, I would clean and wire brush the upper part of those two cylinders. Then, if they were surface rusted, and not pitted deeply, I would determine which way they were headed so as to not try to reverse the engine (assumes the crank is in it, and rods attached) and I would use a end grain block of hard wood and a mallet to shock them some. Then pour in a quarter cup of ATF (all cylinders) and then put some forward pressure on them.
Put the tractor in High Gear direct drive (not TA), then take a 14 foot 4X4 and chain it to one rear wheel front and back so it sticks forward and is 4 feet off the ground. in front. Hang about 250 pounds of sand in buckets or other weight on the 4X4 at the far front end. Heating the block with a heat gun for an hour is also a positive thing to do. do not heat the pistons as much as the cylinder, It is intended to enlarge the cylinder to free the piston and rings. Removing the starter, and or bumping the starter (if the electrical system is still intact) is also positive. If a sleeve comes up with a piston, so be it. Remove it as a unit. Jim
Click to expand...

The wheel weights come to mind when looking for two 145 lb things for the end of the board :)
 
If all fails make yourself a bar starter. It will give you forward and reverse and has much more power than your good starter.
a64882.jpg
 
llamraf,"Burn it out"... Since you have the engine torn down you are already 2/3 of the way home.....
Remove fuel tank if its not all ready off, roll tractor out side , make sure all Flammable items are clear of the area.
! Fill the cylinder with the most volume! up with Diesel, add a splash of gas, set it on fire, drink a cup of coffee as it burns, when it has burned itself out drive the piston out from the bottom. the burn time or # of burning will vary from 1 time if the piston is at the bottom of the stroke, to quite a few if the piston is more TDC.
This method will get a engine loose in 1 afternoon!
Just use all fire precautions possible, do not burn your shop down!
Later,
John A.
 
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