Glow plugs stopped working on my '63 706 w/ the 282. Nothing registers on the glow plug meter at all when you press it now. Worked fine one day and the next, nothing. How exactly does the meter work, I see there"s dots on it, does each dot represent a glow plug? It used to go all the way to the last dot but now it doesn"t move. I haven't tested the glow plugs yet, wanted to see if there was any other reason why it might not work. The battery was dead so I was using a 200amp charger/booster to jump it, could that have fried something? Also, what's the best way to test the actual plug, test light? If they are bad, how much of a job are they to change?
- Thread starter Steve KS
- Start date
High voltage from a charger will burn them glow plugs out zip. Many different ways to test them but firt you want to determine if you have current available to them. A test light right at the junction block where all the glow plugs are hooked together at the insulator by the nozzles will tell you if you have current to that point. If yes, I think you took them all out. If no light there you have to work your way back to meter , switch etc.
tractordanp
Member
i just picked up a 460 diesel recently i needed to jump start it and fried the glow plugs without realizing it opps
you an test light to the glow plug to see if your getting power to them if so pull the glow plug and use a test meter see if you are getting any resistance through them i found some on ebay from www.AccurateDiesel.com
for like $14 a piece
you an test light to the glow plug to see if your getting power to them if so pull the glow plug and use a test meter see if you are getting any resistance through them i found some on ebay from www.AccurateDiesel.com
for like $14 a piece
Bud DeLong
Member
High voltage from a battry charger can burn out the glow plugs?? What about the alt when your using the glow plugs to clean it up when running?The old gent on the next farm used to have a hard starting UB Diesel and he would hold a torch over a hole in the intake while using the starter. Proably should call the ins man first.Bud and Stinky.
You got that right too. Using the glow plugs after it is running is taking a chance. You should keep the glow plugs on while starting and keep them on until cleaned up. The original generators on those tractors didn't put out enough amperage to increase the voltage enough to over come the current draw of the glow plugs as they do draw a lot of juice. Here is what I would do if I wanted to apply more glow plug after it was running and I had already released them. Idle it way down, turn on the lights to lower charging voltage and then apply glow plugs. With the alternators we are see ing on most tractors now days that does not always do the trick. OH, when those tractors were new (560 and 460) those glow plugs cost eight bucks apiece and in 1958 that was a lot of money. Battery chargers took a few out way back then also.
Thanks Pete, sure enough - have power at the block and at each lead. Looks like it would have been cheaper to buy a dang battery than replace the plugs. Live and learn.
Any tips to R&R the glow plugs? Would it hurt to spray them down w/ PB Blaster for a day or two before I attempt to take them out? Looks like they might be stubborn.
Also, the little plastic block holding the junction block to the engine block is broken, can I replace that w/ a little piece of wood or should I try to find a piece of that special plastic? Can't seem to find the part on CIH's part look up.
Any tips to R&R the glow plugs? Would it hurt to spray them down w/ PB Blaster for a day or two before I attempt to take them out? Looks like they might be stubborn.
Also, the little plastic block holding the junction block to the engine block is broken, can I replace that w/ a little piece of wood or should I try to find a piece of that special plastic? Can't seem to find the part on CIH's part look up.
Owen Aaland
Well-known Member
The part number should be 1998754. That replaces the original number 42915D.
Those glow plugs can be a sob to get out especialy if the tips are burned and swelled up.Use a 7/16 I think could be a 1/4 deep well socket turn them out to the end of the threads then use a small vice grips pull and turn back and forth with some penetrate sprayed down the threads may have to go in and out a few times.Use never siez on the threads when going back to gether.
Ahh, there it is - thanks. Was trying to look under electrical or injector/glow plug section. I"ll order it.
Thanks for the advice on taking them out everyone, I"m paranoid about breaking them b/c I"m sure they"ve been in there a while. I"ll go slow and not spare the penetrating oil. Good tip on vice grips once the threads are out. I'll let you know how it goes.
Thanks for the advice on taking them out everyone, I"m paranoid about breaking them b/c I"m sure they"ve been in there a while. I"ll go slow and not spare the penetrating oil. Good tip on vice grips once the threads are out. I'll let you know how it goes.
Finally got the glow plugs, they were backordered but that gave me a chance to spray the old ones down w/ PB Blaster every couple days. Probably wasn"t necessary the old ones had anti-seize on them so they came right out. New ones are a little shorter and the white piece at the top of them seem to be loose but they work so I'm not complaining. They were about half the price of ones from CIH. A battery would have been cheaper though.
I do have a question though, I started thinking about why the 200amp booster was bad for them. A battery produces more than 200amps so what"s the difference? Does it only produce more when cranking or something? Anyway, thanks for the tips it all worked out.
I do have a question though, I started thinking about why the 200amp booster was bad for them. A battery produces more than 200amps so what"s the difference? Does it only produce more when cranking or something? Anyway, thanks for the tips it all worked out.
Electricity is somewhat like water, it only flows from points of high Volts to low Volts. The amount of Amps that flow depends on the difference between the high voltage and the low voltage.
When you're starting the engine, your high Volts are the battery (12 Volts) and your low Volts are at the starter (0 Volts). It is very easy to get 200 Amps to flow when your low voltage is 0. The voltage can never go over 12 Volts because the limiting factor is the battery.
When you're charging the battery, your LOW Volts this time are at the battery (12 Volts). In order to get 200 Amps to flow INTO the battery, the charger has to produce a voltage that is much much much higher than 12 Volts.
Use the boost mode to CHARGE the battery, but turn it off before you hit the glow plugs next time.
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