806 died

Anonymous-0 · Mar 9, 2012

Grinding grain with the 806 Diesel yesterday and all of a sudden it starts to pull down like the grinder was starting to plug. Shut off the corn going into it and it kept pulling down. By the time I could get into the cab, it quit. Just a slow dying process. The filters were good and clean, fuel came out of the bleeder screws on top of the filter cannisters. Fuel came out of the side plate on the injection pump. Not near cold enough to gel up. After checking all of this, got in and it started right up and ran just fine. Finished grinding, probably 15 minutes and it continued to run fine. Any ideas what went wrong? There is a little check ball in the return line(maybe?) that gave us some problems many years ago, but I can't remember what those symptoms were. Could this be the problem? Thanks, I know sombody out there will be able to help!

ss55 · Mar 9, 2012

Plugged vent in the fuel tank cap? Injector pump ring decaying?

ejr-IA. · Mar 9, 2012

The ckeck on top of the pump clogged on mine and it acted just like you said slow down and die then starts right up.The machanic said knock the clear plastic ball out of the check did that runs fine now.

pete 23 · Mar 9, 2012

Did you see any "coffee grounds" come out of the side cover on pump. That is usually what is left of the governor ring when it shells out. If so, you will want to have pump repaired soon to avoid shearing off the governor weight retainer pins and having no engine speed control. You can remove ball temporarily if plugged but not good to run that forever. If you do not find anything in pump, I would take an oil filter off and examine for bearing or piston material. I have seen them get pretty tight and free up again and run for a while.

jpsepp · Mar 9, 2012

if it has a rubber hose going to the pump they will collapse inside sometimes.

Dieseltech · Mar 9, 2012

Anytime an engine starts and dies with a Roosa Master pump it is usually governor weight retainer flex ring failure, small bits will plug return fitting, when housing pressure reaches transfer pressure plungers will stop moving and shut engine down. Easy check is to loosten timing cover to relieve pressure, if speed picks up pump needs repaired. Only knock out return fitting ball to get back to the shop. If not fixed correctly a simple reseal will turn into a junked pump when retainer rivets break off, wedge between rotor and cam, seize hydraulic head and break the drive shaft. Have seen this happen too many times in years of diesel injection repair when a return fitting is removed or modified and owner thinks it is good forever, then has to get a $250 shaft and $500 head assembly because he kept running it and locked it up. Just hope this helps someone in the future.

caterpillar guy · Mar 9, 2012

Well first it makes a difference if it has the old RD pump or not. The Rd pump has a flat almost square cover on top. I have had little trouble from it since I bought it 34 years ago. Just the top will leak or the little timing covers will. I would agree with the flex ring on it if it is the other pump: Bosch, Roosa Master.
Now just cause fuel ran out of the bleeder screws doesn't mean there is enough fuel flowing to run it. Could have a plug in the line from the tank.Or dirt in a kink in the line. after all that tractor is 40years old.

806 died

Anonymous-0

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ss55

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ejr-IA.

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pete 23

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jpsepp

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Dieseltech

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caterpillar guy

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