Oil blow out of exhaust ports on fresh Farmall 706 rebuild

I have a Farmall 706 that I completely rebuilt with new sleeves, pistons, rings and rebuilt head. Once I got it fired up it seemed to run perfect but started leaking (significant amounts) oil from the exhaust ports of at least 4 cylinders within 15 minutes running.
(double made sure the rings were installed correctly when assembling the pistons!)

I removed the valve cover to see if all the valve stem seals are in place and all appear to be ok.

Any idea what might be causing all this oil to blow out the exhaust?

Thanks in advance!!

First off WHAT ENGINE ?????? Did you fit each piston to it's hole?????? In all the 706's that i have done i have not run into this YET . But i mic. each piston and i mic each hole and then size the hole to the piston with .004 clearance . since the parts ya get today are not even close to being the same.

More than likely not oil(assumes it is a diesel). Likely that two things are happening at once. Diesel engines when first started and not worked hard "slobber" this is a mix of carbon black and condensed water. (looks like oil but it does dry into spots or stain like runs) This is the nature of tractor diesels of that vintage. If worked hard, it will stop.
The second is leaky exhaust gaskets. If the manifold leaks the gasket and or surfaces were not perfectly flat or possibly tightened correctly. It is a working machine. Puttering around low speed or load operation and parades are slobbering conditions. If the staining is not too bad, I would live with it. If exhaust is escaping radically (use a small rubber hose as a stethescope all around the manifold) It needs to be fixed, or retorqued. Jim

I apologize. It has a 263 gas engine in it. I did not bother to mic out all the parts because they were ordered as a complete kit: sleeves, pistons, rings, bearings etc. and obviously new gaskets all around. The kit is a 263 overbore kit from Powermax Engine Parts # S&P/1.IH291OB CONV.

It is a 263 gas. I had all the head/block resurfaced to much smaller tolerances than the manufacture called for (-.002 vice -.006). After running it for 15 minutes or so it already had oil 1.5 inches wide and all the way down to the oil pan across the side of the block and started to emit noticeably blue smoke from the stack. (far more than I find acceptable for any rebuild!)

If it has oil pressure, Run it for 10 hours. Break it in correctly wit variable light load for 2 hrs than up to full load for a minute or so till 4 hrs then just don't keep it at the same load or speed for the next 6. If it is way smoking after that let us know. (or the engine builder if it was not you.)
Jim

I never and mean never just stuff pistons in any engine with out putting the mic's to the pistons and bores . Also what do you mean 263 overbore. I have done a bunch of 263 to 291 conversions over the years and that is the only over bore that i know of , and to do that ya have to bore the block.

Had a moment of CRS as ya did state 263to 291 . You do know that when ya do this change you also have to set ing. timing to the 291 spec.s and it also helps to fatten up the carb a little . The best thing is to use a C291 dist. Also what i was sayen was that these new pistons that you get today and it does not matter who you buy them from they all come from the same place Clevitte and the piston O D varies up to .003 and id of the sleeves varies also . Each engine that i have put together i start off by micen the bores and write it down then we do each piston THEN and only then is it put on the rod for that hole and the bore is honed to fit with .004 added in for skirt to wall fit Also the honing takes care of any wrinkling that may happen when the sleeve is PRESSED in . On the D 361 and DT 361-and 407's .this is most important . Now also did you set the end gaps off the wrist pin at about a 30degree angle staggered . The only oil burn that you should have should last no more then a few min.s from the lubing of the piston before it was installed and any oil that may have been on the exhaust valves. There should be NO pumping on any holes. Now IF by chance you may have broke the rings while shoving them in the holes . I hqave done a bunch of 706's over the years as i lost count of all the 706 gasser that i have bought and hauled out of Il. and In. over the twenty years that i did the buy and sell thing.