Removing Oil Bath and Inserting a dry air filter in housing

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Anonymous-0

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Im wondering if any one has done this and knows what filter to get. I removed the oil bath out of the housing for my farmall 450. I want to get a dry air filter to fit in the housing. Does anyone know what i can use?
 
At one time the M & W Gear Company had a dry filter element that would fit on M's, Super M's, etc. I have one on my Super M. It sets on top of the oil bath air cleaner unit. I'm not sure they are available anymore. The paper element is in a canister like the older cars had for filtering air.
 
I give it some thought from time to time but most air filters are made so air flows from outside to inside. Hard to make it work with a original looking air cleaner body and pipe to carburetor.
 
The M&W one replaced the original air cleaner with a pipe and like you said the filter was above the hood.
 
Because he wants to doesent believe those have been around for 70 pluss yrs and work well and are one of the best ever put on a tractor with the new hi-cu in engines it would make sence but the old tractors they filled the purpose .
 
If you understand the working of the oil bath you will find it is a better filter AND LESS restrictive than any paper filter. Don't think so : mount a paper filter at the intake of an oil bath, use it for a day and the paper will be plugged and the oil bath will still have trapped dirt that got through the paper. An oil bath coats the mesh with a film of oil and when properly cleaned lets the oil drop back down with the dirt when the tractor is off.
 
Armand it is the mans dream that it is less restrictive and that it will give more HP. Even if, a very big IF, it were less restrictive you are working with a 50HP/1500RPM engine that won't show any HP improvement. When you are looking at Drag/NASCAR engines turning 9-10,000 RPM then you worry about head porting, exhaust/intake restrictions. We sat up "stock" pulling engines on a dyno and tuned all ways; no filters at all to exotic chemicals in the oil bath and only saw marginal HP differences.
 
You will never know the difference on a low performance engine, and it is questionable on high performance engines. An item like that makes zero difference.
 
After gutting the inside of the upper filter chamber, cut the internal tube (that is coming from the top intake through the hood) so that that pipe ends just inside that upper chamber.
At the side exit pipe's connection to the upper chamber, construct an elbow turning down that aims directly down in the center of the upper chamber.
Find a KN or other filter that fits this pipe, and is smaller than the diameter of the upper chamber.
Put the lower "pan" on the new and not as good filter and race.
Or just gut the chamber entirely, and put the KN style filter on the pipe coming out of the hood.
Or remove the Donaldson system entirely and put a KN style on the carb intake with a short hose if needed.
Jim
 
Why didnt you put one on top of the intake with a metam base and cover that wouldnt get wet. How are you going to make one work inside the present one the way its designed you will need to connect the bottom inside of the paper one for it to work to the carb.
 
The ONLY advantage to a paper element over oil bath is that it is NOT "messy" to change.THAT IS IT!!!!(We are talking "STOCK" type m engine here,NOT a big horsepower,high RPM pull motor.)


Like has already been said,An oil bath will stay CLEANER, LONGER than a paper type element.(Unless to took a diesel element out of my Detroit that is about 24" in diameter and 24" long.MORE surface area!!! lol)
 
Oh, come on now, put one on your Camaro and you would be the ONLY ONE at the drag strip with one!!

Tell them it knocked off two tenths!!! LOL
 

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