Iron weights vs rim guard on M

Stumpy(NH) · Mar 5, 2012

Hey fellas,

Here is where I am at. I just got new 13.6's for my M. The current 12.4's are loaded with calcium. I don't really want to put calcium back in. However....57 gallons of Rim Guard per wheel is gonna cost a couple of bucks.

What is your opinion on adding iron weights instead of loading?

57 gallons rim guard = 609 lbs or 4 weights per wheel....I already have one weight per wheel now. My centers are dished in. Can I put a couple of sets inside and 3 out side or is this ridiculous?

This is what my M looks like now.

tractordanp · Mar 5, 2012

i have a set of weights if you need a couple more i am in vermont

Bill Lisbon · Mar 5, 2012

Sounds like a good idea, cast wieghts are easier to add or remove than cacium.

Andrew Z · Mar 5, 2012

Really depends what you are going to do with it and how much ballast your going to need, heavy tillage or just parades? Also if your tubes are new and you check your steams on a regular basis there is nothing wrong with calcium chloride, washer fluid, or coolant.

Andrew

David G · Mar 5, 2012

I added washer fluid to my tractor, because I need the weights also for a loader. I got rid of the calcium. The COOP carried both washer fluid and calcium.

rustyfarmall · Mar 5, 2012

If all you're doing with that M is maybe occasionally pulling a plow, one set of weights is all you need. If you will be installing a front end loader, you would want 2 sets of weights, maybe 3 sets at the most. If the M is strictly a parade tractor, you don't want ANY added weights.

Stumpy(NH) · Mar 5, 2012

Well, I use it for a few things...parades included. This summer it will be on a baler on hilly terrain. I also like to pull a couple times a year, but not very seriously in the 7000lb class.

The iron weights are sounding like the way to go.

Stumpy(NH) · Mar 5, 2012

Where are you and if you don't mind....How much do you want for the weights?

CNKS · Mar 5, 2012

2 weights inside and 2 outside. The weights will not be as noticeable if you turn the wheels around--unless you have them that way to fit a trailer. I recently sold an M at auction that had the large aftermarket weights inside and outside on it, I would guess 800-1000 lbs per wheel in addition to loaded tires which I got rid of when I bought new tires.

rustyfarmall · Mar 5, 2012

(quoted from post at 18:16:47 03/05/12) Well, I use it for a few things...parades included. This summer it will be on a baler on hilly terrain. I also like to pull a couple times a year, but not very seriously in the 7000lb class.

The iron weights are sounding like the way to go.

If you are using that tractor on hilly terrain, you really need to turn those rear wheels around to give the tractor a wider stance. It will be much more stable on those hillsides.

Stumpy(NH) · Mar 5, 2012

Ya, the treadwidth is set to fit on my trailer.

So should I through bolt a weight inside and outside and then build off of that?

tractordanp · Mar 5, 2012

danby about 20 miles south of rutland what are they worth?

Stumpy(NH) · Mar 5, 2012

Just checked the map. You are about 115 miles from me. I'll keep it in mind, but think I'll check local first.

Thank you for the offer.

CNKS · Mar 5, 2012

You can also get half weights and avoid removing the wheel, although it is difficult to do anything inside that wheel with them set that close.

SouthernFarmall · Mar 5, 2012

Fluid will carry your weight lower, thereby lowering your center of gravity. It is also my opinion that fluid builds more inertia when traveling at a medium-fast speed (over 3.5 mph) compared to weights.

SF

jeramy · Mar 5, 2012

this is my m with 3 weights on inside

uncle henry · Mar 5, 2012

i've got four on each side of my super mta

mike1972chev · Mar 6, 2012

I vote wheel weights over adding fluid for MANY reasons.

#1You can drop weight quicker.

#2 tire repair with ANY kind of fluid inside is nasty

#3 If you drive down the road on 5th gear,partially filled fluid tires can do some "weird" stuff while trying to stop quickly.

#4 Taking FULLY loaded tires off the tractor can be FATAL if you drop one on yourself!!!!

rustyfarmall · Mar 6, 2012

(quoted from post at 18:25:32 03/05/12) Ya, the treadwidth is set to fit on my trailer.

So should I through bolt a weight inside and outside and then build off of that?

Hate to keep pickin' on you, but MOST, not all, trailers that require you to set the tractor wheels in that position in order to fit between the fenders are rated for only 7,000 pounds including the weight of the trailer. This means you have a working load capacity of only about 5,000 pounds, and a Farmall M with NO weights added is already AT or over 5,000 pounds.

If you trailer has a 10,000 or 14,000 pound rating, then you're good to go. Otherwise, you've got no business hauling the M on your trailer.

Pete76NY · Mar 6, 2012

Stumpy, Nice M! 1st, I would use windshield washer fluid if I were gonna fill the tires...cheaper and works well...we have had it in a few of our workers and one weight class pullers (Ford Ns, and JD70) for years. Also we do this because in our area Farmall weights are cheap...JD weights I think are gold lined! lol
Also in their stock configuration (all of ours are stock) you will be able to enjoy stock pulling and be competitive in the most classes with a Farmall, so we just add weights when we need them on the IHs.
Be easier to get some half weights to put on the inside if you wish to do that!

Iron weights vs rim guard on M

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