Fast hitch bracket email questions

Was asked several questions about brackets after I posted under the topic in another post.
May be the easy way is to try and answer all in a post.
First I don't claim to be a expert on the subject, or claim the way I did is the best way. This is also for a fast hitch with traction control. Sorry if long.
On how to figure where to put the bolt holes I was fortunate enough to have access to a 300 and 400 bare transmission housings. Where axles bolt on and the bosses are for fast hitch mounting are machined off at the same level. So I just used thin cardboard placed on the housings to place the bolt holes for 4 axle and 3 hitch mounting bolts. Used SAE washer one size bigger than the axle bolts centered on the holes to mark for front side of axle bolt cut outs in the housing. Draw line to join washer circles from near back side of the actual bolt holes. Back shape of templet is not that critical and not hard to figure out. Cut out is needed for the handle boss on the left side. Used 1/2 inch thick steel for a M one but I didn't have enough that size for a H, SH tractor. Had 3/8 and 3/16 plate so decided to use them though it was extra work for 4 plates. Do think it worked out better though. After making the 3/16 to fit down in the axle housings flats it raised the 3/8 up in the housing enough to leave more steel aroung the bolt holes and othe places. All the cast axle housings are not the same. I ground plates to fit housings I had off another tractor to fit perfect on the housings. when I got around to putting on a tractor with a different housing I needed to grind adjustments to fit so they would bolt flat on the axle housing. Lot of grinding could be eliminated if plates were cut smaller. But I tourched out by hand and wanted to leave as much steel around the axle bolts as I could.
Yes the axle bolts need to be replaced with longer ones. Some may notice the plate in a SH picture I posted having nuts past the end of the bolt threads. Used suposedly grade 8 nuts from tractor supply that didn't come past the end of the bolt threads when first installed. They wouldn't even torque up without stripping so I put some grade 5 X heavy nuts on I had to finish the trial fit. Torqued more than the suposedly grade 8. If a person had a good template the right machine shop could cut the brackets easy.

I made a set of plates for a MD three point by using a housing gasket to place the holes directly on heavy paper. Then took the paper to the tractor and cut out material to allow the bolt holes to clear the material around the flats on the housing. The holes were perfect, I made a copy of it by transfer to 1/8" tempered masonite. I jacked up the tractor, and bolted it on. My mounts were for cat 1 and 2 t point, so were different than for FH. I also designed into the plates the rock shaft bearing supports for pillow blocks. The 1/2" thick plates were flame cut, then drilled (transfer punches with the masonite).
Today I would use the gasket in a large format digitizer then draw my bracket around the gasket holes. CNC plasma torching the outline, then using the cgasket to position the holes for drilling would be choice. Jim

Jim I made M ones a long time ago and the SH just this year and like most things there's something I would do different every time. On the SH I decided to use the materials and tools on hand. Its a wonder someone with access to advanced cutting tools and a good template doesn't start selling the plates.

Hey thanks for the posting, i appreciate it, at least I have a starting point now!

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On this first one for a 650, I just drew a high contrast shape with a felt pen and let a metal fabricator use his "seeing-eye" pantagraph, torch out the 3/4" metal pieces. This was done about 15 years ago.

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On the second one, I made templates from sheet plastic and mailed them to a shop that does nothing but burning. In both cases, the holes are located in the plate one at a time. I use a threaded fastener with a point machined on the outside end. It goes into the tractor frame and protrudes about 1/16". The plate gets whacked against it.

All this cutting can be done with high precision with a water-jet or laser. All the fabricator needs is a good print. The cutting head is controlled with a digital file. Those with cad-cam software could probably send the file on an email.

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Here are a couple more pieces professionally torch-cut. I like square cut kerfs. Some might think that the hardware was factory made.

Do you really think there would be a good market for these plates?? I do have access to a Hypertherm computerized plasma torchbed.

I have been contemplating putting a fast hitch on my H, and have enjoyed reading these past few posts

I also have a Hypertherm 80 amp 4'X8' CNC torch in our Technology Hot metals lab at SCSU. I think the essential ingredient is to market the CNC file in DXF format. And include with the CD of the file, a template printed to locate the holes. (plasma cut holes would be mediocre, and heat affected zone hard) This with a copyright statement would be much less expensive to ship, buy material for, and it would then be their project. Have a no resale clause signed by the purchaser on the order. How many? probably a hundred or so. Jim

To all,

Is there THAT big of a demand to make an H OR M a Fast hitch???Fast hitch implements are kinda scarce anyway.

I am not saying it isnt "useable" but I bet for most it would just be a novelty??? I bet most people that had one on thier tractor would end up sticking the "three point" adapters in them to even use them,if they would even use them????I am guessing the majority of the parts to do this would have to be robbed from an actuall Fasthitch tractor??? (300- thru 450s) That would leave THOSE tractors without their proper hitch,wouldnt it???



Not trying to start a fight,but just seems mostly impractical.(But still NEAT to see.)

Mike, Im doing it because the fast hitch was given to me free, my brother in law pulls his 560 and does not work with it....It does have the tongs to make it a 3 point hitch so its more economical for me to make a couple brackets than spend the $850 on a saginaw..

with that said, it might be more of a pain the the @$$ to try and create the brackets and maintain a fast hitch that is 50 years old

They are better than sliced bread. If you used one for 25 years or more, messing with three point is just silly. If the tools were purchased new with the tractors the issue is moot. 3pt point is good for control of implements, but the plates being discussed can be used for installing a back hoe, or 3pt, or any heavy use device that is not serviced by a loop drawbar and a swinging hitch. It is market circumstance, not design. If the marketing and timing were 10% different, we would be enjoying FH on everything. Look at the front of many snow plow trucks today. It is a fast hitch!! would you suggest going to a 3pt on snow plows. No. Good question, it is necessary to use them for routine activities to understand. Jim

Jim, I would consider even manufacturing the plates and shipping them. My company allows us to use any of the fall material we want. Essentially, I could manufacture them for free.