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Straight pipe or muffler, not your normal reason for asking

M

mkirsch

Well-known Member
Usually people ask this question because they want their tractor to be "loud" or to "look cool."

In this case, it's a 1066 that's running on the high end of operating temperature when you work it.

The tractor has always had an oval muffler, and it just occurred to me that this may be contributing to the problem.

This all started when the tractor was fitted with a remanufactured engine.

Will the tractor run cooler or hotter with a straight pipe? I can never remember.
 
If it was REALLY restrictive,YES! If this is a standard sized muffler for this engine,I doubt if it is the issue,unless it has "collapsed" internally in the baffleing???? BIG if!

Other things I question is: lean fuel,cooling system issues.
 
The tractor did not run this hot before the CaseIH dealer installed the remanufactured engine. Water pump is new. Radiator is clean.

The engine was probably no good from the get-go, but the CaseIH dealer wouldn't do anything about it. It doesn't quite overheat so it's "just fine."
 
If both engines used the same muffler I doubt it, but a straight pipe could help. On diesel pickups (not a perfect comparison) you can usually pick up 75 degrees on your EGTs with a free flow exhaust.
 
id check the muffler for internal colaps, but if thats the problem the tractor should sound noticable different, how does it overheat? is it showing hot on the gauge or is it blowing water out the radiator overflow? if its showing hot on the gauge, if it were me id try installing a new gauge right on the engine and see if the sending unit on the engine is lying to you, establish if the engine is really running hot or if its showing hot but running normally, if its blowing water something is definatly wrong , and fruther investigation is needed
 
The first question is: does the new engine make more power than the old one did when it operated correctly? If yes, that may be the answer in a nutshell. It takes burnt fuel to make heat. It takes good injection timing, and expansion control, to turn it into work. Residual heat in the stack is waste. Exhaust valve timing, and back pressure can both affact the amount of heat in the stack.
If the tractor is making more power than before, and no other changes have been made I would do the cooling system analysis first. Particularly the heat gun analysis of the radiator. Thermal analysis can also show restrictions in hoses, but not as easily. Thermostats that fail to open fully, and internally collapsed hoses are also possible.
If these are sound and checked off, I would just swap the exhaust. It is not a 5 minute change, but running close to the edge is not in the best interests of a long engine life.
Jim
 
What was done to the water pump when the engine was rebuilt? Water pumps have been known to slip on the shaft. Not common but has happen. Also what are the condition of the belts and pullies? Have you tried swapping the muffler and/or checked the turbo? Are the hoses new? Also keep pressure on the dealer! One more thing to check would be the tempersture gauge and use a thermal imaging gauage on different parts of the engine and cooling system. Would like to know what you find. Armand
 
Was your pump rebuilt at overhaul? If the pump is set a little hot or the timing a little high this will cause the problems you are talking about.
 
Is it full of water? I mean right up to the neck. Is there any exhaust smoke, any color, that would indicate a timing issue? Is the fan belt any good? Did you put a mechanical gauge in the cyl. head to see if the cab gauge is accurate? Radiator clean on the inside? plenty of air flow? Thermostat?
 
Simple answer is yes they will run a tad bit cooler with a straight pipe but only a very small amount cooler. As for that fixing your problem probably not unless the exhaust has a real restriction in it and then ya it might but you are more likely to have a timing problem or cooling system problem
 
It's definitely not anything obvious.

Radiator is full of 50/50 water/antifreeze mix. It has been checked and verified clean as a whistle. Two new water pumps, just in case one was bad. New thermostat with each water pump.

The water does NOT "blow" out of the radiator like a compression leak.

It doesn't overheat, but it runs right at the borderline between RUN and HOT.
 
A straight pipe if ok if you have a cab on a 1066. You are not going to tell a difference with a straight pipe on your engine temp, not enough to notice. Was your radiator boiled out at a radiator shop or did you flush it out your self? If it runs hot only under a heavy load it also could be a timing problem. Some machnics advances the timing up to 22 degrees and fuel up on the pump and that will cause higher engine temps but you will have a increase in power. A heavy duty radiator off a 1086 thru 1586 and changing the fan from a 6 blade fan to a 8 blade fan might help also. I did that on my 1466 a few years back and that did help a lot because it was turned up to about 180 hp an running pretty warm pulling a 20 ft disc in high 1st gear.
 
Your last post stated that it ran hot after the rebuild. I would
have the timing checked. That should make the most
difference on temperature. The injector pump would have
been removed during the exchange.
 
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