farmall cub alternator

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
I am in the finishing process on my cub project and am looking for a small 12 volt single wire alternator. i am wondering if any of you have any ideas for such a item any information will be useful. thanks
 
A basic Delco 10SI will do the job. I would go with a 3-wire using the ignition switch to turn on the alternator. One-wire alternators require sufficient RPM to get them to kick-in. Your Cub runs at a much lower RPM than in an automotive application. After starting, you would probably have to rev it up to start the alternator.
 
Hitachi alternator D21 Nissan PU from 1986
The reversal of the battery ground requires reversal of the amp gauge. (amp gauges are not all marked the same way and Pos Neg may mean different things). All electricity except starting heavy current needs to go through the amp gauge. This means there is only one #10 wire going to the Positive battery connection at the starter heavy switch, and it is connected on the terminal that connects to the battery cable, not the starter cable.
This wire connects to the amp gauge terminal by itself.
if it is a mag equipped tractor, There is absolutely no connection between the mag and any electricity at all. From the mag side terminal a #12 wire goes to the mag kill switch. if it is a stock mushroom shaped knob switch, from a mag equipped tractor, it will have only one terminal!! the switch body is the ground that kills the mag when the button is in, and is open (allowing the mag to operate and fire the plugs). If there is a mushroom switch, and it has 2 terminals on the back, it is for a distributor/coil tractor. It can be used, but must be disconnected from the electrical wiring. If used it will need to have one terminal connected to the mag, and the other connected to ground. The switch will work in reverse, run will be pushed in, stop will be pulled out.
The lights are connected to the Amp gauge load terminal (the remaining one).
If it is a coil and points system, the supply to the L terminal must go through a marker lamp sized bulb, or a 3 amp 150 piv diode (with the band of the diode toward the alternator), or the momentary contact switch meintioned above, or the oil pressure switch, or a 10 ohm 10 watt resistor, These keep the engine from continuing to run when the ignition is shut off. (the alternator backfeeds the ignition if one of the above is not used. The alternator Bat wire (10ga) connects directly to the load side of the Amp gauge.
There are two small spade terminals on the alternator and they are at right angles to each other. One is albeled L the other S.
The L must be connected to a voltage source to energize (excite) the alternator. This can be a momentary contact push button, or an oil pressure switch that closes on pressure (NAPA). Which ever of these is used should be connected to the load side of the Amp gauge. The momentary contact switch is pushed after the tractor is started, then released. The oil pressure switch is automatic because when there is oil pressure there is charg, when none it stos charging.
If no switch is in this circuit, the alternator will be on all the time and it will run down the battery.
The S terminal is connected to the Bat terminal with a short wire to sense the battery charging voltage.
If the spade connectors are close together in the socket, use shring tubing to insulate them when plugged in.
The L on the Hitachi equals the #1 terminal on a Delco.
The S on the Hitachi equals the #2 terminal on a Delco.
I hope this helps, Jim
 
a 10si will work fine. You can't really see it anyway, as its all under the hood. Unless you just plan to start the tractor and idle it, you'll have no problem getting it to charge... if you are just starting it to charge, then, yes, you will have to rev it a bit to excite the fields. I've doen 3 of them that way.
 
I have designed a nice looking mounting bracket for mounting a Delco alternator under the hood of a Cub. The pictures here are showing the Delco CS-130 series of alternator. I also have a kit for using the Delco 10SI alternator. My e-mail is open. You can also check out my web site at charliesrepair dot com I like the CS-130 because it starts at a lower RPM compare to the 10SI and is easy to wire. charlie
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charlie, thought id mention you need to run you a overflow hose down on that radiator if you havent, i didn't on my cub, and 1 summer of mowing ruined the paint on the hood within 6 inches of the radiator cap by blowing hot antifreeze on it, fixed now, but thought id mention it to ya,
 
Here is a picture of the brackets with alternator removed. I hope the owner will see the comment about the rediator overflow hose. I met the owner at the RPRU in Albert Lea last summer and he sent his cub home with me so I had a tractor to designed a mounting bracket for installing an alternator on the cub.
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