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Fermall M

No, but a pretty good rule of thumb is in hauling one tractor to drive it on forward and stop with the rear tire centered or sightly ahead of the trailer tires.
 
The weight s and loaded tires on the tractor will make the issue difficult.
A stack of cribbing and a good jack could be used top lift it (using blocking under the torque tube to avoid stressing a single point) then lifting it an inch off of the ground several times moving the jack position till it seems to want to lift the whole tractor.
I would start at the drawbar front pivot bracket. I also believe in putting 25% of the weight on the tongue or gooseneck (or more if the tow vehicle is rated appropriately for that load. Tandom tires also affect the ballance point of the trailer.
Jim
 
(quoted from post at 07:21:56 02/17/12) The weight s and loaded tires on the tractor will make the issue difficult.
A stack of cribbing and a good jack could be used top lift it (using blocking under the torque tube to avoid stressing a single point) then lifting it an inch off of the ground several times moving the jack position till it seems to want to lift the whole tractor.
I would start at the drawbar front pivot bracket. I also believe in putting 25% of the weight on the tongue or gooseneck (or more if the tow vehicle is rated appropriately for that load. Tandom tires also affect the ballance point of the trailer.
Jim
Click to expand...

I asked the same question quite a few years ago, and I don't remember the answer for sure, but I'm thinking maybe it was 20 inches ahead of the rear axle? Wouldn't that 20 inches be just about where the drawbar bracket is mounted?
 
(quoted from post at 07:00:42 02/17/12) No, but a pretty good rule of thumb is in hauling one tractor to drive it on forward and stop with the rear tire centered or sightly ahead of the trailer tires.
Click to expand...

I like to back them on. I stop with the front just on enough to flip the ramps. If I drive it on I stop the rear tire of the tractor between the trailer tires. This is on a Keifer 25' gooseneck.

Jim's way is the only way to figure out the exact center. The other way to do it would be to split weigh it. Drive the front on a the scale and the back on the scale and figure out the proportion. That wouldn't get you the exact center like Jim's method would.
 
I drive it on frontwards and stop when the rear bumper drops a couple of inches. That puts the rear wheels about where you say.
 
(quoted from post at 10:31:22 02/17/12)
(quoted from post at 07:00:42 02/17/12) No, but a pretty good rule of thumb is in hauling one tractor to drive it on forward and stop with the rear tire centered or sightly ahead of the trailer tires.
Click to expand...

I like to back them on. I stop with the front just on enough to flip the ramps. If I drive it on I stop the rear tire of the tractor between the trailer tires. This is on a Keifer 25' gooseneck.

I load the same way only on a 25' Corn Pro.

Puts the truck down about 1.5 - 2" and handles great.

With 2 sets of weights, fuel and such mine is about 5900#
Click to expand...
 
A word of caution about loading and unloading a tractor that may have a considerable amount of weight on the rear, we always back on and drive off. Don't risk a flip over accident. Have fun and be SAFE!!!
 
I agree. I have a length of all thread with a hex nut in the middle and mounted on a round plate. I set it on the ground and run the nut to the level of the top of the bumper. When it drops 3 inches...we're good to go.
 
The front end of an M is notorious for climbing, especially in 1st gear. If you must go up a steep incline, use 4th gear.

I once was saved when the picker elevator hit the ground and stopped the front end from climbing any more!
 
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