Trying to locate Farmall H main bearing kit .002 undersized

Trying to boost oil pressure, had the oil pump cover machined then used plastiguage on the bearings, they have a clearence of about .004, took a couple bearings off to get the serial numbers, and found they are for a .002 undersized crank. I"ve found a rod bearing set but cannot find a main bearing set. Called IH and they said they are discontinued and cannot get their Tisco aftermarket bearings either. My H is a "41, serial is 79680, I see the early H"s take a different bearing than the late H"s. Trying to find .002 and not having to remove the crank and turn it.
 
You should have that crankshaft measured by your local auto machine shop. They can probably obtain the correct bearings. If .002" undersize bearings are no longer available they may need to grind the crankshaft. I would have new cam bearings installed while your're rebuilding the engine. Hal
 
(quoted from post at 08:30:18 02/16/12) Trying to boost oil pressure, had the oil pump cover machined then used plastiguage on the bearings, they have a clearence of about .004, took a couple bearings off to get the serial numbers, and found they are for a .002 undersized crank. I"ve found a rod bearing set but cannot find a main bearing set. Called IH and they said they are discontinued and cannot get their Tisco aftermarket bearings either. My H is a "41, serial is 79680, I see the early H"s take a different bearing than the late H"s. Trying to find .002 and not having to remove the crank and turn it.

I just checked with 2 different suppliers, one of them being Tisco, and engine main bearings are available ONLY in standard, 0.010" undersize, and 0.020" undersize. Looks like you will need to contact an automotive machine shop for the 0.002" undersize.
 
Give us a call Alderson Tractor 641-624-2275 8am-6pm. We don't have any on the shelf but I believe we can get ahold of a old stock set.
 
You had best mic the crank . Myself i would have the crank turned and like said before DO THE CAM BEARINGS ALSO. You will not gain a thing just by replacing bearings .
 
Tell you a secret, if you actually have no more than .004 clearance, you won't gain much on oil pressure with new bearings except at low idle when using light engine oil. Forget the plastiguage , use a piece of shim stock,.004 about 1/2 inch wide, 1 inch long, lay it in cap and tighten it down. Slight drag will indicate .004 clearance, no drag, more than .004. Then you can try a little thicker to see what you actually have. Best way to measure clearance is with a inside mic in bearing journal and then measuring shaft. Of course this isn't always practical. Now as for oil pressure, make sure the pump is in good condition. Lot of them wear the shaft and have excessive clearance around the outer edge of gear. I have replaced a lot shafts over the years and the housing normally is ok. Also, many H tractors have the WRONG relief valve. It should be a straight cyl end to end. If it has a small diameter on closed end it is wrong.These wrong plungers will give you about 45 psi . And then the springs get weak over time. An H should hold over 60 psi, no problem at higher rpm. If all these things check out you will have to tear engine down and establish correct clearances through out including cam shaft.
 
the max clearance is .003 on the rod and mains. you already have .004 clearance with .002 under. brgs. that is telling you the crank is already worn out of round.. so its either o/h time or leave alone depending on your tractor usage. can use #40 oil or 20-50 to help the situation.
just for example if you put the .002 under brgs.brgs in the engine with no wear you would not even be able to turn it over once torqued, as ideal clearance is .002.
 
Depending on how much the .002 are worn webers shows a .003 main set if you want to take a chance. I would want to measure the crank carefuly before trying. Can't check the mains very good unless crank is removed though. May as well have it turned if removed unless it checks out. Doubt it well check okay unless it came new at .002.
 
You guys make me laugh "undersize" if the crank is worn you need "oversize" as they are thicker to make up what the crank is worn. I spent too much time making new brass bushings for worn outstuff when the shafts had wear and then after turning them true needed oversize to get a good fit. The crank is under size after wear so you need oversize bearings to fit.
 
(quoted from post at 14:15:03 02/16/12) You guys make me laugh "undersize" if the crank is worn you need "oversize" as they are thicker to make up what the crank is worn. I spent too much time making new brass bushings for worn outstuff when the shafts had wear and then after turning them true needed oversize to get a good fit. The crank is under size after wear so you need oversize bearings to fit.

Laugh all you want to, but the correct terminology is "undersized" to fit an undersized crankshaft. Info is straight from my auto mechanics instructor, and if you look for engine bearings in a parts catalog, they are all listed as "standard", or "undersized". No such thing as "oversized".
 
Right, the crank is smaller from wear therefore undersized, needing a thicker bearing. The crank is worn, therefor needing a thicker bearing with a smaller/undersized inner diameter. Might be a little counterintuitive referring to a thicker bearing as undersized, but we are referring to the inner diameter.
 
Have you looked up Federal Mogul or Sealed Power they have them i got some .002 over for a Cub. The restored Cub will just be used for parades and sit in a pretty shop for people to see it will last forever.
 
The undersize means the crank has been ground undersize so the bearings are oversize from standard as there isnt any undersize bearings unless you build up the crank over standard then you could use an undersized bearing from standard.
 
I haven't put the oil pump back together yet, but yes, I noticed a new spring was only $12 and the old spring was visibly worn so I do have a new spring on the work bench ready to go in.
 
wouldn't you use .002 shimstock? .004 is a cumulative total from both sides of the crank journal, right? Or are you putting .004 on one side, forcing the crank against the old bearing surface on the opposite side?
 
I found some NOS .002 from either the Parts Depot or vintage parts. They didn't have many left after I bought what I needed for my customer. Might have your dealer check or go online and type in the old part number.
caseman-d
 
(quoted from post at 20:35:07 02/17/12) wouldn't you use .002 shimstock? .004 is a cumulative total from both sides of the crank journal, right? Or are you putting .004 on one side, forcing the crank against the old bearing surface on the opposite side?

To get the same as a .002 undersize bearing you would need to use .001 shim stock and put it behind both bearing inserts. You should also sand a little off the end of the insert to keep the bearing crush the same.

Many years ago you could get tapered shim stock. It was .001 on the sides and .002 in the middle. When using that you put it behind only one insert, usually the upper on the rods and lower on the mains since they would be ones with the most wear. The last time I tried to find some I didn't even find anyone who even heard of it.
 
I called Webers on Friday, he's going to be out of town but will call me Tuesday, he said the web site is outdated but he'll check his stock for .002 or .003.
Thank you for the lead, appreciate it.
 
(quoted from post at 07:44:37 02/20/12) I think I've heard of these, were they basically like a small sheet of aluminum foil?

Shim stock is a steel alloy? Anyhow I know it is not aluminum. The shim stock I'm familiar with is kind of like a ribbon, and is etched with the thickness right on it. Very similar to a set of feeler gauges.
 
(quoted from post at 09:12:06 02/20/12) Apparently parts depot is a service only available to dealers?

A couple years back you could order directly from them, and the guy that set up the depot inventory system had it taken back by the dealerships after he did all the work setting it up -- at least that is what he mentioned to me. I ordered a bunch of stuff from him until it was moved to dealerships.
 
Just called my dealer, he went back after our conversation last week and saw that parts depot did have it so he went ahead and ordered the center thrust main bearing for me. $138, ouch, glad I called him and checked.
 

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