I have a 560 diesel that smokes when cranking, but won't start. Won't start pulling either. Will kick off on a little bit of ether but just for a second. I don't use it much, just to see if it would even run. Just bought this thing and have no previous info. I pulled out kill cable and tractor still smokes like it's getting fuel. I'm pretty sure pump is bad. How hard are these things to rebuild ? I'm a good mechanic and a machinist by trade. so what I am asking is should I get a rebuilt one, or rebuild my own ? Thanks.

Andrew You never said a thing about glow plugs. They will not start with using the glow plugs. Not supose to!!!

Did not use the glow plugs. I did not think they were that important. I.E. It was 50 degrees here in Texas today and we pulled that tractor about 200 yards with the motor turning about 1200 rpm. Smoked like crazy, with an ether shot, it would hit for just a second. My point is is this the kind of engine that after doing all we did to try, it would not have fired with out the glow plugs ?

Use glow plugs always, even if l00 degrees out. Pre cup engines have to have a outside heat source to ignite fuel until sufficient heat and turbulence is created. It may well start when warmed up , shut down and immediately restarted without using glow plugs but then again five minutes later it most likely won't at least with out missing and fooling around. Do not even think of using ether if you are using glow plugs as it may well blow the whole intake manifold off because at least one intake valve is open all the time. Make sure all six glow plugs work. Hold them for a full minute and keep holding them when starting because they will cool off in 5 seconds. A good pull , even on a worn out engine, should get it running if glow plugs are working. And pull the throttle wide open to start.

I bought a 560 for parts one time, had to pull it home about 5 miles. Hadn't run for about five years and had dead batteries. Once we got underway I figured if I gave it a good spin it might start, fairly warm day. Only had a little ether , it would hit a few times but that was about it, smoking like crazy. After about three quarters of a mile it finally took off and ended up running real nice, I didn't have the heart to part it and sold it whole.

One thing that i did not mention before, is that this tractor had an electric fuel pump on it for some reason. Nothing crazy, just some vatozone special. Why, i dont know, do you ? Maybe the previous owner was as lazy as me about buying manuals. Anyway, I removed it and re-plumbed the fuel delivery/return system. Could this have had any negative effects on the inj. pump ? I suppose i will hook up the glow plugs tomorrow and see if that fixes it. It seems to be the concensus view that that this is the culprit. Do they need a relay, or just a power feed with a switch ? Also there is a gp meter on the dash and i dont know what it is supposed to read/measure. How does it need to be wired ? Sorry for all of the questions, but im used to h's and a 1086. This 560 is now the middle child of the line up. I should probabaly just buy a manual, but my ego has trouble admitting defeat. Probabaly will anyway. Thanks for all of your help on this issue, and keep it coming !!

Battery voltage , no resistors on this system, goes through a push buttom rather heavily wired, not through ign switch. Meter merely shows if working. Can test each glow plug individually by just hooking up one at a time and it should show near half of gauge deflection. Glow plugs are just hooked up in parallel. Not in series like some tractors are. Don't know why someone had electric pump as filters and pump are strictly gravity feed on those. Make sure the return line is not restricted though. There is a check valve in return fitting under fuel tank and they can mess up. Purpose of check valve is to maintain a small amount of pressure in pump body for lube and cooling. Story goes with those check valves. One of first 560's we got in my boss let a guy try out on a demo. Well, it conked out on him in field, would only run about half speed with throttle fully open. Boss and I went out, determined return was restricted, we pulled check valve out from under tank. I stood with finger plugging hole in tank, boss takes elbow apart as the ball had gone through the spring, reassembles it,same thing happens in about ten seconds. We leave fuel return line loose and I drive tractor back to town, going down highway, leaking a little fuel all the way. About 15 miles. Farmer would not buy tractor. Ordered a new check valve, problem solved.

The old fellow next farm never had any money or anything new.Rubber boots bolted in old tires with carrage bolts and the like.He had a Minnie Mo UB Diesel that was a bear to start cold and with a large hole in the center of the intake manifold he would run the starter and hold a act torch over the hole.The engine would suck the fire into the cyls and light up?? Bud.

glow plugs is a must or forget it. these are very easy starting engines once a person knows them . either , throw that in the bush cause it will cost you big money in the end. dont matter if its 80 degrees still need to use glow plugs. hold for a minute and even once running till smoke clears up. i would say you would have to pull it 1/4 mile before it would finally start without glow plugs. its just the way they are designed, use glow plugs.

Have you changed and bled the fuel filters? Is the fuel line from the final fuel filter to the injecter pump a hose? I have had that hose fail twice because of internal damage even tho it looked good on the outside it would not flow fuel. Take the hose completely of the fuel pump and catch the fuel. It needs to full flow fuel for at least 2 or 3 minutes to not have an internal blockage. BTDT. Please let us know what the final fix is. Armand

(quoted from post at 05:29:06 02/12/12) Have you changed and bled the fuel filters? Is the fuel line from the final fuel filter to the injecter pump a hose? I have had that hose fail twice because of internal damage even tho it looked good on the outside it would not flow fuel. Take the hose completely of the fuel pump and catch the fuel. It needs to full flow fuel for at least 2 or 3 minutes to not have an internal blockage. BTDT. Please let us know what the final fix is. Armand

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There is no longer a fuel pump on the tractor. Replaced all fuel hoses. Cracked f.I. Lines at injectors and got fuel. Engine smokes when cranked/pulled. Need to replace filters and get glow plugs working. Then climb the "cost" ladder one rung at a time. Next will be getting injectors tested/replaced. Then inj. pump if all else fails. I think this is the best approach here.

Andrew: I was refering to the fuel pump/injector pump as one and the same(the pump with the injector line coming out of it). After I typed that the thought ocured to me that I might confuse you but I did not take time to make the correction. Do you have a parts book? The parts book should show a manual priming pump located between the sediment bowl and primary fuel filter to assist in bleeding the filters and after fuel flowed the priming pump added no futher pressure as the fuel pump/injector pump supplied the pressure. As the priming pumps failed they were discarded and not replaced. The P.O. of your tractor must/could have had starting problems and decided to replace the manual priming pump with an electric pump. As was noted no priming pump is needed as graivity works. NOW one more thing to check. Have you check the oil cup in the bottom of the air cleaner? Where are you located and is the temperature at or below freezing? It is possiable that over time the oil cup at the bottom of the air cleaner will fill with water and when frozen block air flow to the engine. It is also possible for the filter element above oil cup to become blocked with dirt which will block the air moving to the engine. Without air an engine will not run. I do not recall you or anybody talking about the air cleaner so I am putting this thought out for you to consider. I have been around 560's and other tractors and trucks for 50+ years and sometimes the simple (and cheap fixes) will be the hardest to find. Hope this information will help. Thankyou for your reply and please continue to update. Armand

Ardrew: Just found a post where you said you are in Texas and the temperature is 50 degrees so you do not have frozen water in the oil cup(ail cleaner could still be blocked tho). Armand

I thought of that too. Not because of ice, but the precleaner lid was missing. No change. But this brings up an interesting point. Are the elements in the filter canisters replaceable ? Mine was really gummy and crappy. Got it submerged in gas over night. It's below freezing today here in Texas, so I probably will not be doing much outside today.

About half-way down page 1 is topic titled Replacing air cleaner filter material by Jason Hubner. Shows some pictures and cleaning suggestions. By the way I think you mention having either an H or M. Those air cleaners are about same style/construction as the 560 and the 504D. that Jason is asking about. I think I. H. went to paper filters starting with the 706/806 models and later. Armand

I'm with the others in that you may have glow plugs not getting hot or not hot enough. We live in central texas and even on a 90 degree day we use the glow plugs to start dad's 560 for the first start or after it sits for 45 minutes or so. Again that's on a hot day! On a cold day at least a full minute of glow plugs before hitting the starter.