Painted Oil Pan - Inside

400D Guy

Member
I had a bunch of items painted by a shop here, and they did a great job, BUT, they painted the inside of the oil pan and valve cover (plus fuel cap). They used epoxy primer and PPG urethane red (the expensive kind). They first sand blasted the items, then applied the paints. I didn't realize what had happened until I got the items all home.

I removed the fuel cap red paint easily with ACE type paint remover, but the epoxy was stubborn, but after it got soft, it came off with some CNH thinner. The primer appeared to etch the metal. I got it all off and now it looks right, but my question is -- will the oil pan and valve cover paint give me future problems? It appears to me that the paint is really on there good. Should I take it off or leave it on?
 
(quoted from post at 09:50:51 02/10/12) I had a bunch of items painted by a shop here, and they did a great job, BUT, they painted the inside of the oil pan and valve cover (plus fuel cap). They used epoxy primer and PPG urethane red (the expensive kind). They first sand blasted the items, then applied the paints. I didn't realize what had happened until I got the items all home.

I removed the fuel cap red paint easily with ACE type paint remover, but the epoxy was stubborn, but after it got soft, it came off with some CNH thinner. The primer appeared to etch the metal. I got it all off and now it looks right, but my question is -- will the oil pan and valve cover paint give me future problems? It appears to me that the paint is really on there good. Should I take it off or leave it on?

Take it OFF. You do NOT want that paint flaking off and plugging up the oil pump intake screen, or plugging up any of the oil return passages.
 
I would take it off. Fresh paint usually comes off like nothing. Any solvent should work. Thinner, gas, or brake cleaner come to mind right away.
 
I am agreeing with what EVERYBODY is saying here!!!!
It aint worth ruining engine bearings and clogging oil pumps over!!!!

I dont even like the idea of sandblasting ANYTHING that goes inside an engine.You cant always get all of the blast media out of the "pores" in the metal.


I remember reading on here similar issues from Farmall and the orange "Glyptal" like coating they were putting inside the gear cases coming off getting into bearings!! NOT GOOD!
 
It used to be common in high performance auto engines to paint the lifter valley with the glyptal type paints to aid drainback of the oil. I saw one such small block where it had chipped off a bunch. I don t know if that caused the engine failure on that one,but it didn t look good I can tell you that. I would remove the paint given the choice.
 
Mike, don't know about it anymore, but everyone painted the inside of engines & gear cases with gyptal to seal the porosity of the cast iron. I don't ever remember hearing that problem with IH.
 
Well, I took your advice and removed the paint from the oil pan, and will do the valve cover tomorrow. I tried paint remover, and it was way too messy, so went to my wire wheel and die grinder. It came off real slick. Didn't bother the outside at all. Also, I noticed a small 1/2" square area of paint that wasn't holding on real good, so you folks were right on (what a surprise!)!

Now I feel better.
 
It is dicussed somewhere on here.Someone was cleaning out their trans case and the "orange coating" was coming off while cleaning?they were asking about re coating it ,and people were saying "NO" for this reason.

IH sent out a shop bullitin on the inside coating of the cases???? (What I was reading 2nd hand.)It might have been Red Power mag???? I am not making this up.

I agree gtski.We have done many a motor with Glyiptal with no issue.They have to be prepped WELL!!!!! But what is being discussed here with regular paint is a BIG no no.
 
That is the thing with that type of coating.You are taking a chance by doing it because if the coating isnt done well in spots,it WILL come off and get into things.

BTW,Most engine builders I know have long since discontinued this practice.
 
Saw a D-310 with anti-freeze in pan that cleaned the
paint out of the inside of that engine slick as a
whistle and plugged up oil screen.
 
Look at the RPM limits on that wire wheel, and look at the rpm operating speed of that die grinder. Draw your own conclusions.

Safety Nazi
 
(quoted from post at 08:23:39 02/11/12) Look at the RPM limits on that wire wheel, and look at the rpm operating speed of that die grinder. Draw your own conclusions.

Safety Nazi

Yeh, I keep the air pressure down and spin it fairly slowly, plus never spin it in my direction. I know it can still bounce around, but being blind with thick glasses is a good thing here.
 
(quoted from post at 08:23:39 02/11/12) Look at the RPM limits on that wire wheel, and look at the rpm operating speed of that die grinder. Draw your own conclusions.

Safety Nazi

Well, the HF die grinder spins at 25,000 rpm. Looking at the Pferd brushes you can get a knotted brush rated for 25k, but the crimped wire brushes are only rated for 20k. At Northern Tool the knotted wire brushes are rated for 20k. The HF brushes appear to be rated for 4500. I don't think I would put those on a die grinder :shock:
 
Got me worried so went to look at mine, and it is rated 22,000 at 90 PSI, and the brushes at 4500. I don't know if it is linear, but I keep the PSI to 40 or less, so that would make it about 10,000 rpm???

Yikes, maybe I should use better brushes. I've gone through about 20 of these various brushes and never been hurt at all, so NOW is the time to change my ways, I guess.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top