H transmission noise

The input seal to the trans on my H was leaking severely. I changed the seal and the bearing behind it because the bearing was worn. I also changed the seal for the lift all pump drive and the gear lube. When I drove it tonight the left brake would chatter but worked. There is also a chattering type noise is 2nd 3rd and 4th gear. 1st and reverse are ok and I did not try 5th. Any suggestions? I did not touch the brakes. I have never been in the trans on any of the old farmalls so I am confused. When the trans made noise I could feel a little vibration in the seat.

Did it make any of this noise before you changed any
of the parts?

No there was no noise and the brakes were nice and smooth. That is what has me confused. After I drove it a little bit the brakes seemed a little better and it was only the one side.

Make sure you did not do what I did if you took this apart.

Shaft

Randy

(quoted from post at 21:44:33 02/06/12) The input seal to the trans on my H was leaking severely. I changed the seal and the bearing behind it because the bearing was worn. I also changed the seal for the lift all pump drive and the gear lube. When I drove it tonight the left brake would chatter but worked. There is also a chattering type noise is 2nd 3rd and 4th gear. 1st and reverse are ok and I did not try 5th. Any suggestions? I did not touch the brakes. I have never been in the trans on any of the old farmalls so I am confused. When the trans made noise I could feel a little vibration in the seat.

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Say you changed the bearing behind the topshaft seal? If so, there is a pilot bearing just a few inches further in that is probably bad now. Probably was bad before, but with all the commotion of changing the big bearing it got rattled loose and some of it may have dropped to the bottom. It looks like a wheel bearing actually. If you look it up in a Farmall parts book or on the Case/IH website, it will be item number 38 in the diagram. Fortunately, it is fairly easy to fix. Can be done without pulling the top off the rear frame even. if you had the front seal and bearing out to replace them before, just pull them again only this time take a light and look into the hole at the front of the top shaft located just behind it. The bearing should be on the end of the shaft. It has both an inside and outside race, so be sure all of it is there. It can be pulled off through the hole usually, and replaced the same way. If it is missing, look inside the gear it rides in on the forward part you removed to reach it. If not there, it is most likely in the bottom of the transmission and you will need to pull the top cover to retrieve it. Good luck and let us know what you find.

-Bob

Bob, you are exactly right. I ended up taking the cover off. There are a lot of oil leaks that will get fixed also. Anyways, I noticed the splined shaft moved up and down a lot so I started fishing with the magnet and found six little rollers. The seals by the brakes are also leaking and the lining are all wet. I have ordered a bunch of gaskets, seals and a bearing. That little bearing is $88.00 from the dealer but I don't want to take it apart the third time so I am going to spend the long dollar on that one. It is quit a learning experience as I have never been in the trans of one of the old tractors before. Hopefully it will be good for another 69 years when I get done.

I go to a local bearing shop. If you give them the number off your used bearing or the IH part number they will cross it. You cuold also check eBay, there are some good deals on bearings there.

(quoted from post at 11:10:17 02/10/12) Bob, you are exactly right. I ended up taking the cover off. There are a lot of oil leaks that will get fixed also. Anyways, I noticed the splined shaft moved up and down a lot so I started fishing with the magnet and found six little rollers. The seals by the brakes are also leaking and the lining are all wet. I have ordered a bunch of gaskets, seals and a bearing. That little bearing is $88.00 from the dealer but I don't want to take it apart the third time so I am going to spend the long dollar on that one. It is quit a learning experience as I have never been in the trans of one of the old tractors before. Hopefully it will be good for another 69 years when I get done.

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Glad to be of help. When you replace those seals, the new ones will not be anywhere near as thick as the old ones you remove, but don't worry, they will still seal up just fine. Seal technology has progressed greatly since these old girls were designed in the late 1930's.

When I did mine. I actually doubled some of the seals as I already had extras, but it is not really necessary, I was just playing it safe as I, too, did not want this to become a regular occurrence.

Best price I've ever seen on that pilot bearing was $70 from a jobber in Chattanooga, TN, so $88 is not out of line at all. I tried the route sflem849 suggested first though, and no one could cross it to find another bearing that would fit. That particular bearing shows up only rarely on eBay as well, though I did buy every other one for it on there, and the seals also. My new bearings were NOS stuff from some guy's home workshop where they had sat for umpteen years until his death and the subsequent sale of everything on eBay. Actually bought all the roller bearings for a complete service in one auction with a winning bid of less than $50! This was for three top shaft bearings, two bottom shaft bearings and the ones in either side of the differential, seven bearings in all! The reason for the low price was the gal selling them didn't know what they fit, and said so in the title of the ad, so it really pays off sometimes to have a copy of the parts book for your tractor! I had to email her twice to get all the bearing numbers, but it was most definitely worth it!