350 Farmall Questions

1sarge

Member
Location
NE Mississippi
Posted a few days ago about a tractor am looking at. A neighbor has it and thinking about buying. I found out it is a 350 row crop when I went back and looked at it. It is not runing a this time and I don't know how long it has been since it ran. The engine is a C175 but the 175 is stamped in and you can see where the original casting was ground off and then stamped. Is this a reman engine?
Wanted it to fix up but pulled dip stick and seemed to have water in oil but engine is not locked up. I shifted it into 1st gear and then could not get it to shift out. Wanted something to fix up and not a parts tractor so not sure now if I will buy or not. Quick hitch, tires hold air but not good for $500??
 
A Farmall 350 for 500 with a suspect engine is a good price. If the engine is free it is much less hassle to fix. If it has coolant in the oil, it should be able to be leaked out of the drain plug into a pan to assess what it is. If it needs all drained out, then do it. You will not buy a usable running tractor in its class for less than 2500. If you are adverse to repair work, work with a FFA group for a project. It would be a Buy for me! Jim
 
Investigate further the water in oil. It may be simply condensation. Loosen the drain plug until the last thread and see if water drips out for a bit and stops. Set a cup under and measure. If there is no more than a pint it could be condensation. Depends on how long it has set. Similarly, the transmission needs checking for condensation. You could have sludge and perhaps rust on the forks to prevent ease of shifting. A good draining, cleaning and new fluids will probably solve its problems.
 
Could be a replacement block or at a overhaul the engine size was changed to 175 and someone decided to stamp the block. Casting # near the C175 would help identify it, or check for a block serial # stamped in just above the tin side cover on the same side looking on toward the front of engine. Engine date code is also between the side cover and head. If that was the complete serial # of the tractor posted before a 300 would have no dipstick originaly with that #.
350 had a key switch not in the gage panel. Hydraulic valve shaft selector sticking above the sheet metal on most. Something not likley to get switched between tractors was the clutch pedals. At lower end the 300 has a bolt and jam nut to limit throw. 350 doesn't have the bolt.
Depending on location I would sure be interested in the tractor if you don't want it.
 
Thats scrap price would part out for lots more than 500. At that price its like free so what are you waiting for. You can spend a lot more money for one that looks good then needs repairs when you get it home and start to use.If you arent able to do your own work and understand how to fix things you will have a hard time finding anything thats perfect.
 
I can do the work, have rebuilt several tractors in the last few years that were in bad shape. I really don"t need the tractor to use but looking for a another project and it is close to home being just across the road. I am sure if I don"t buy it he will take it to the scrap yard and I hate to see them go for scrap. So I guess I"ll save it. Don"t know where you are located that said you would take it, but the tractor is way down south.
 
(quoted from post at 12:29:17 02/03/12) I can do the work, have rebuilt several tractors in the last few years that were in bad shape. I really don"t need the tractor to use but looking for a another project and it is close to home being just across the road. I am sure if I don"t buy it he will take it to the scrap yard and I hate to see them go for scrap. So I guess I"ll save it. Don"t know where you are located that said you would take it, but the tractor is way down south.

I'm way down south too, so if you don't want it, I do. Where is it exactly?
 

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