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h starter rebuild pointers.

P

primerk5

Member
Has anyone rebuilt their own starter? I took mine apart and found my brushes are fairly worn. Also one of the brushes screws were loose and a wire was disconnected. I also found one of the brushes were missalingned. Ive found on eBay that someone is selling brush kits. What should I do to clean the housing and the comutator. Should I polish up the area where the brushes ride?

I searched and searched and can't find anything about DIY starter rebuild. Everyone says take them to a good shop. I don't see spending a whole lot of money when I can fix it. They don't appear to be that complicated in my opinion.
 
The bushings should be replaced too if any looseness is found. Commutator should be turned if it is grooved, or just smoothe it with medium grade sandpaper.
 
The following will do it:
Take pictures!!!
Clean with Electric motor cleaner spray.

Remove the bushings in the drive housing, and
brush end frame. The blind hole can be difficult,
use a good hacksaw blade cut to a 45* angle to cut
through the bushing. The drive end bushing will
push out with a small socket or square end shaft
that is correct to push on the diameter.

The armature should be true and flat. A lathe is
best. A drill press is next with a sharp flat
file, followed by polishing with 400 grit to
smooth.

The mica insulators between each segment of the
commutator should be undercut. It can be done
with that hacksaw, but is easier with a Dremel and
tiny cutoff saw Make a jig to V the commutator,
and hold the tool in alignment. Cut only 1/32
deep below the copper.

Purchase a new style cushion drive pinion (small
wimpy looking spring, much better design)

Reassemble with moly grease in the bearing pocket
and in the drive end bushing.

Get help (four hands) or use stiff wire to hold
the brushes back while putting the armature into
the brush end frame.

Put on the band and paint it black. Best of luck.
Jim
 
Jim's advice is right on - as usual!

An addition however: Inside the starter frame check carefully the soldered connection between the input stud and the heavy copper conductors. If there's any cracks, looseness, etc. in the soldering take the frame to a starter shop and have the stud resoldered. (Unless you have a BIG honkin' soldering iron it's impossible for the average mechanic to make a good solder joint here.)

Also check the insulating bushing around the stud. If it's cracked or deteriorating now is the time to replace it.
 
I've never bothered to undercut the mica on the armature, clean it up with fine sandpaper and go ....
 
(quoted from post at 20:33:45 01/29/12) The following will do it:
Take pictures!!!
Clean with Electric motor cleaner spray.

Remove the bushings in the drive housing, and
brush end frame. The blind hole can be difficult,
use a good hacksaw blade cut to a 45* angle to cut
through the bushing. The drive end bushing will
push out with a small socket or square end shaft
that is correct to push on the diameter.

The armature should be true and flat. A lathe is
best. A drill press is next with a sharp flat
file, followed by polishing with 400 grit to
smooth.

The mica insulators between each segment of the
commutator should be undercut. It can be done
with that hacksaw, but is easier with a Dremel and
tiny cutoff saw Make a jig to V the commutator,
and hold the tool in alignment. Cut only 1/32
deep below the copper.

Purchase a new style cushion drive pinion (small
wimpy looking spring, much better design)

Reassemble with moly grease in the bearing pocket
and in the drive end bushing.



In my 32 years in the Royal Navy I was taught never to under cut Starters

only Generators

Alont

Get help (four hands) or use stiff wire to hold
the brushes back while putting the armature into
the brush end frame.

Put on the band and paint it black. Best of luck.
Jim
Click to expand...
 
If the starter has been wound on for a long time, the springs that hold the brushes in contact with the armature can overheat and lose their tension. I go to a local auto electric shop for parts. They usually have good quality parts because they have to stand behind their own work.

Greg
 
(quoted from post at 07:18:08 01/30/12) Triodiode has the kits.
Click to expand...

Yup, thats where I found them last night. I guess that stuff is decent quality? I was gona call my local autoparts store before I order off the internet. They can normally get me stuff like this.
 
Starter brushes are hard enough to wear down the mica. It should be undercut on a generator cause the carbon brushes are soft.
 
Yea,may be,but it still gets under them and causes it to get "insulated" between them. Any of that ground off residue just stays inside the starter the whole time.If it was in a HIGHER performance starter rebuild,it could be more noticeable.

It is just a good idea.
 
Because starter brushes have a high copper content under cutting the mica can cause shorts in the armature when the worn off brush material gets packed into the cut slots. This will short the commutator bars together and reduce the starter torque.

The commutator really needs to be cut on a lathe to hold the run out to no more than .002". Too much run out will cause excessive wear on the brush holders and if bad enough can cause arcing between the brush and commutator that will quickly wear out the brush and cause excessive wear on the commutator bars.

Never use emery paper to smooth the commutator. The abrasive material will conduct electricity and can also short the commutator. That is why you should only use sand paper.

An easy way to remove the bushing in the blind hole is to thread a tap or a bolt into the bushing and then pull it out.

You might try this site for parts. They have a starter repair kit SRK110 that would have everything you need but there should be another number that would be a better fit for the H. the kit includes the stud and the SRK110 contains the stud for starters with switches mounted on the starter rather than the threaded post. The SRK110 is listed here for an Allis Chalmers WD and WD45. The picture here does not show the stud but the package I have included it.
 
I think most of my problems were due to the disconnected wire at the loose brush. The starter wouldn’t turn my 43 H with a most likely wore out X3 engine and 12 volts hooked to it.

I sorta followed the directions posted earlier. I went to my local auto parts store and they had a brush kit. I used some CRC electric motor cleaner and cleaned everything really well and inspected all the solder connections for cracks and breaks and didn’t find any.

I didn’t under cut the mica. The reason being is that I didn’t have to. Each grove was filled with dirt/gunk/brush material. But it wasn’t wore down. I took a box cutter blade and pushed it through the slots to get the grime out and then cleaned it up with motor cleaner. Then I polished it up a bit.

My Starter only has one bushing for the shaft at the bendix end of it. The other end doesn’t have one and the book at my local auto parts store doesn’t show one. Is that normal. I didn’t have much if any play at either end.

Everything appears to be working now with the 12 volt now. I didn’t feel like hauling my 6 volt battery up from my other H to test that last night. Next I need to figure out how to test the generator/regulator next.

Thanks again for you help so I could get this part working again.
 
What you found on your armature is an example of why to not undercut the mica on a starter.

The early starters (1107448) did not use a separate commutator end (C.E.)
bushing. Later starters (1108016) did use the C.E. bushing. The replacement C.E. frames will also use the bushing.
 
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