cumulative update pics on the H

souNdguy · Jan 21, 2012

sorry it's been so long on the H pics. I had taken a few over the last few days after working on her, then left the old camera in the shop. gave up on the cell phone pics.

wife has the new camera out of town.. but found the old 3mp kodak..

no particular order of the pics.

shows me cleaning and then manhandling the wheel weights.. which I believe outweigh me significantly

had to lever them up with some pry-bar stock and a big screwdriver to get some holes lined up.

painted them hanging on a shop crane..e tc.

one pic shows the POS regualtor I was working on... field control is shot.. cutout works though... so I wire up a tickle switch using 2 ignition resistors.. about 1.5 ohms and .35 ohms on a SPDT switch, center off.. thus I have a hi / low charge, depending upon rpm.. etc.. at low rpm I can kick to high and have a few amp charge.. at hi rpm I can kick to low and have a few amp charge.. etc. she starts and purs nice.

still dinking with the muffler. is a , ahem, stanley.. was cheap.. but works.. kinda like a pipe..

need a new lamp. the spare I had int he shop, the base plit when i cranked it down.

complete with spitshine and decals.

I touched up the bolt heads and nuts for the wheel weights after instalation, etc.... did I mention those suckers were heavy? when I did the C, she was small enough to back into the shop to use the floor jack on. H was a lil too big for that.. and the shop crane didn't like the dirt in front of the shop..

soundguy

Dblair · Jan 21, 2012

that thing is down right pretty now . congratulations on the tractor , have fun with it .

souNdguy · Jan 21, 2012

now I just got to have some fun with it before my step dad wants to use it.

He's got my ford 850 with hoe right now, so I think I get to play on the H for a while.

neblinc · Jan 21, 2012

Did I miss the before pics? I feel inferior taking a year to do mine :wink:

Randy

Janicholson · Jan 21, 2012

Very nice effort. You do know how to spit paint out of a gun. All wheel weights should be antigravity to 95% of their weight when off the tractor. That would make one serious discus. Jim

kevinj54 · Jan 21, 2012

Lookin' good!!!!!!!!!!

Any before pics???

souNdguy · Jan 21, 2012

unfortunately all my before pics are from the night I got her, and one rainy morning.

weather her ein florida is in flux, nice in the high 70's one day.. 30's the next.

wife had the good camera and i tried for some cellphone pics, but they didn't turn out.

when good weather hit I took advantage of it and shot some paint. dug up my old kodak and got some pics starting yesterday.

I think I got my paint in on 2 good days in between some wet and cold weather. I don't even try to paint unless it is at least 70, and no more than 4mph wind, and low humidity, nor in direct sun either.

soundguy

LenND · Jan 21, 2012

You mean to tell us after all that work you are going to get it dirty? LOL Nice looking job.

souNdguy · Jan 21, 2012

had plenty of practice on the painting

I like that IH red paint. goes out and covers good. and that nason quick dry hardner I'm using now.. WOW it's awesome.. that and medium reducer with a lil splash of naptha... almost paints itself. since i've switched to that setup, I hav seen a 90% reduction in runs.. and the few I have seen, 99% of them can be folwed or painted out.

on this one I got lucky, the 'canvas' was near perfect. no rust holes, and well cared for tin.. obviously previous restoration efforts were still present and holding.

just needed some leaks wipes and a service and orings and some fittings tightened.. and I jiggered witht he electrical more than I wanted to.. but she charges for now. at least till I can get the new vreg in.

you are right on about them weights. My back is barking right now. I forgot how heavy the C were since I was able to cheat and use a floor jack since the C would back ontot he concrete at my garage. H is a hair to big to do that.. so she sat in the dirt where the shop crane and jack don't like to play. After I hung the first one.. I seriousle considered calling a buddy to come over and help with the 2nd one. 'm thinking they weight more than I do..

lone lever got them on, and a scredriver poked in a hole long enough for me to push a bolt thru and slap a nut on it, then relaxe for a couple moments

almost as bas as those ford wheel weights that go INSIDE the front rim and are 2 piece. no good way to hold onto them without mashing fingers. at least they are only about 40# or so..

55 50 Ron · Jan 21, 2012

Nice work. Looks quite dry there. Is it as dry as it appears?

souNdguy · Jan 21, 2012

yep.. dry as a bine today and yesterday. earlier this week we had a cold spitting day that wet everything.. but overall.. we really need more rain.

in florida.. the cold isn't the bad part about the winter.. it's the dryness.. that is usually more detrimental to our pasture than the cold..

souNdguy · Jan 21, 2012

now that I got her charging, I want to make a victory lap around the neighborhood. just have ran out of time each day.. plus didn't want to run out of juice half way around my victory lap..

souNdguy · Jan 21, 2012

I just work fast.

when i get a project in, I usually start on it on day 1 while still on the trailer. if I have mornings and nights I don't go to work.. I work on the tractor.. kinda like therapy ( but not any cheaper

)..

My C busted out fast.. would have been faster if the front crank pullyey hadn'ta busted on my, and i had to get a new one and a spare front cover.. that front pedistal was good to take off though.. needed to be cleaned up in a way that would have been hard while attached.

and then sometimes you get lucky and find one that don't need but a few wrenches waved over it, then a washing and a bucket of paint tossed on it. those always go fast when you don't have to crib tem up and start taking off major components and such...

soundguy

neblinc · Jan 21, 2012

So dd you mask off everything that wasn't red or take them off to paint black?
Where did you get the decals?
So you just washed it up good and sprayed, no sanding or wire brushing?

Randy

souNdguy · Jan 21, 2012

spall bolt on parts like genny and coil get removed. did not remove the starter.. masked it both ways.. ie.. masked to shoot red, then papered around it to touch up black.

I never paint belts and hoses if I can at all help it... even though it was likely done at the factory..

decals are actually the lesser expensive vynal ones.. ie.. cheaper set.. not water transfers or anything, got em online, as I do most of my parts, when possible.

we have no good retail outlets for that kind of stuff.. past tractor supply.. etc..

did MINIMAL wire brushing. some scraping... that and a quick scour over paint . metal looked 99% as it was.. I found one lil area of the hood, on an edge that had been eaten away from rust.. about the size of a green pea.. on a flanged edge.. not noticeable..e tc.

I mask gauges.. etc...

if you dig back to my last couple of tractors I had more toime and took way more pics, you can see my usualy step by step process.

soundguy

neblinc · Jan 21, 2012

Did you pull off all the rims to paint them?

Randy

The Dukester · Jan 21, 2012

Looks pretty nice, but there are some tips I could give you...if you're interested in orginality. Example--Farmalls never had black lights, John Deeres did.

souNdguy · Jan 21, 2012

removed rims from centers, did not break down tires.

soundguy

souNdguy · Jan 21, 2012

if you look close you can see I scared the silver paint on the rims remounting them..

souNdguy · Jan 21, 2012

i don't do any of the a n a l retentive show circuits or anything, so I don't worry about 100% originality. though I did paint the ones on my C red.

kind alike the color contrast.

more importantly.. I just want them to glow when I twist the switch..

soundguy

Anonymous-0 · Jan 21, 2012

Nice looking. I have an H almost ready to paint, but a little hard to do in 15 degree weather. Hope to have it done by July.

CNKS · Jan 21, 2012

Randy, I think I "restored" a C in about 5 months, a Super H in about 7, 460 Hi Utility in about 2 years, Super A in 18 months. Of course I replace all seals and gaskets, bearings if needed, engine overhaul if needed, complete disassembly, remove rust and paint to bare metal, etc. To each his own.

souNdguy · Jan 21, 2012

last 2 days here been in the mid 70's... and that is kinda warm for january even in florida. I can remember 50's easilly in past years.. and not being able to paint.. etc..

souNdguy · Jan 21, 2012

some of the fords I've done were like that.

One I worked on.. a rowcrop.

I think I spent 2 weeks alone drilling out broke off studs and bolts into the engine and castings..

soundguy

sflem849 · Jan 21, 2012

(quoted from post at 18:10:01 01/21/12) Looks pretty nice, but there are some tips I could give you...if you're interested in orginality. Example--Farmalls never had black lights, John Deeres did.

Guy Fay in "Originality Guide - Farmall Letter Series Tractors" says they are actually black underneath the red. It is an interesting section of his book.

(quoted from post at 19:33:37 01/21/12) some of the fords I've done were like that.

One I worked on.. a rowcrop.

I think I spent 2 weeks alone drilling out broke off studs and bolts into the engine and castings..

soundguy

You should fire up the welder for that job. Just weld a nut to the broken stud and twist it out. The heat helps break the stud free.

souNdguy · Jan 21, 2012

welder? stud?

If you are refering to my post about the 950 I redid.. well.. I drilled out stuff that was broken way beneath the surface, AFTER removing anything I could weld a nut or washer and a nut too.

not actually my first time doing this

Many were so badly buggered up from the prev owner(s) I had to oversize the hole and rethread.. or drill out.. tap for a pipe plug, then re-drill and thread standard.

In a few places, like the head, some holes were broke out in profile on ears, and I had to fab lil mini brackets out of 1/2" angle iron and redrill the ear from the side, thru, using the lil bracket with a stud welded to it as a new attach point.. for things like the exhaust and fuel tank brackets.

was an interesting project.

a couple plugs had to be burned out as well.

grantl · Jan 22, 2012

Lights were black if they were added later and the tractor didn"t come from the factory with starter or lights.

CNKS · Jan 22, 2012

As far as the black under the red, I had to look it up. Guide painted them black because the lights were provided to several tractor manufacturers. IH painted them red over the black. Sometimes that did not work, either because (IMO) the paints were not compatible or IH did not properly prepare for the red paint. Anyway IH requested that Guide paint the lights red about 1950. Black was common for parts that did not come on the tractor, such as starters. Black lights simply do not look "normal" to me, while I don't pay too much attention to a black starter.

GordoSD · Jan 22, 2012

Yhat light switch box cover could use a detail job. Remove, remove gage, blast prime paint, new bolts. strip paint off gage and polish. Strip and polish knob, they are metal and can be polished to any level desired.
May as well do the box while you are at it. Can be done in an evening inside the shop.

souNdguy · Jan 23, 2012

I'll leave the tool sout and the garage pen. you'll be over at what time ?

no blaster.. I don't believe in them.

I've seen more metal ruined from a blaster than a wire wheel or sand paper..

soundguy

CoopertownBob · Jan 23, 2012

(quoted from post at 11:16:08 01/23/12) I'll leave the tool sout and the garage pen. you'll be over at what time ?

no blaster.. I don't believe in them.

I've seen more metal ruined from a blaster than a wire wheel or sand paper..

soundguy

I'm of the opinion that if a blaster will blow a hole through it, then it was already too far gone and needed cut out and a new piece welded in anyway. Different strokes though, as they say. Looks great!

CoopertownBob · Jan 23, 2012

(quoted from post at 21:10:01 01/21/12) Looks pretty nice, but there are some tips I could give you...if you're interested in orginality. Example--Farmalls never had black lights, John Deeres did.

Beg to differ. If you ordered lights from the factory on the tractor, they came red, but if you bought them back at the parts counter they came black. Same went for starters too. Does look "funny" though since all you mostly ever see now days are red ones.

W.Brehm · Jan 23, 2012

I agree metal to far gone or not correct pot, compresser, etc.. The guy who's going to blast my tractor never had any problems of sand getting into areas where it don't belong.

sflem849 · Jan 23, 2012

(quoted from post at 17:09:28 01/23/12)

(quoted from post at 21:10:01 01/21/12) Looks pretty nice, but there are some tips I could give you...if you're interested in orginality. Example--Farmalls never had black lights, John Deeres did.

Click to expand...

Beg to differ. If you ordered lights from the factory on the tractor, they came red, but if you bought them back at the parts counter they came black. Same went for starters too. Does look "funny" though since all you mostly ever see now days are red ones.

I thought Guy Fays book said they were SUPPOSED to paint them black but it wasn't done all the time.

CoopertownBob · Jan 23, 2012

I just looked that up, and he said that they were "supposed" to paint them red, but it didn't always happen. I noticed he also said that black lights probably continue to find their way onto IH tractors yet to this day, (book published in 1998). All the NOS ones I have seen have been black with but one exception (and you could tell they were red over black) if they were the old style, and both colors (as in could be either one) if of the new. sealed beam style. In reality, either color should be considered correct, but if I were to later add a lighting package to my H that originally didn't have them, I would probably paint them black just to show they were not original equipment to that specific tractor.

souNdguy · Jan 24, 2012

I used to work at a water meter factory.. we had a big cabinet blaster there.. we had originally used bronze cast lids and bodies for the meter cans.. but somewhere in late production they switched to a sheetmetal lid ( stamped ).. these all came in on a boat from venezuala (sp?), and all the lids always had spot rust on them.

after we ruined the first few batches of stamped lids.. they went back to the cast lids. the metal in the lids were about equivalent to car repop body or fender panels.

since then.. I've been squeamish about sand blasting sheet metal... especailly sheet metal that was reduced thickness due to rust. cast i'd have no problem with.. however.. i don't intend to go out and buy a 800+$ compressor and blast pot just to do cast. i can already strip cast with a pressure washer and some spray on chemicals just as fast as sand blasting.. without half the mess or cost.

for sheet metal.. sand or buff pad. if it's pitted.. I try to glaze it.. if it's real pitted all over.. i suimply remove rust, prime with a rust control primer and paint to preserve it.

that lamp box was in that type of shape. either needed full reconstruction.. or.. I guess.. maybee 30 hours of work with spot putty and fine paper.

since I don't go to them head in the rear end type shows where you get grades on restorations.. i didn't worry about it much..

I don't call my stuff a restoration anyway.. only refurbishment.

fix leaks and mechanical problems.. then clean and prime and paint to preserve.. then use..

soundguy

cumulative update pics on the H

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