Wired bolts

Jim Paterson · Jan 18, 2012

The main bearings on my '44 H had wire through the bolts to stop the bolts from spinning free. I noticed that the bolts holding the screen in the oil filling opening also had that. As I reassemble my engine, will any generic wire do the job or should I be using a certain type of wire (steel, copper, or anything else)?

Thanks

Ellis Kinney · Jan 18, 2012

I use rebar tie wire. It is made to bend and flex without breaking. Available at Loews or Home Depot or any hardware store. Ellis

Jim Paterson · Jan 18, 2012

Thanks Ellis, that's what I'll do.

Farmallhal · Jan 18, 2012

I come from an aircraft and aerospace background and all of the lockwire/safety wire I have seen has always been annealed (soft) stainless steel. Don't know what was used on these old tractors but if you want some of this wire I have a couple of small spools and would be willing to mail you the length you need for your project. I would need the amount and an address if desired - email is open, Hal.

JDnTN · Jan 18, 2012

Please clarify. Would soft wire stop bolts from loosening? Some bolt wireing I have seen was more to say "don't open unless you know what you are doing".

Farmallhal · Jan 18, 2012

The anneal process, i.e. heating and the slow cooling toughens and reduces the brittleness of the material while leaving it in a stronger tempered state. This lockwire is very strong in tensile strength and being soft makes it very easy to work with. It can be twisted up tight and not break due to work hardening. I was an engineer at Boeing on the large commercial passenger aircraft and this is the wire that is used all over the airplane for that purpose. I believe it has a MS specification meeting the design requirements of the US military as well. Hope this helps, Hal.

gene bender · Jan 19, 2012

That was someones idea as cotter pins are the normal. Any wire will work.

John M · Jan 19, 2012

Just use Loctite, cheaper and easier. They make some specifically for engine assembly.

BoonvilleKid · Jan 19, 2012

Do NOT use re-bar tie wire. All of it is now made in China and is no longer made to ASTM Standards as it once was. All re-bar tie wire now rusts away very quickly, plus it has sections of varying strengths along the roll. Do NOT use.

Nebraska Cowman · Jan 19, 2012

It's called mechanics wire.

mkirsch · Jan 19, 2012

It's called "safety wire" anywhere I've seen it used.

Harold H · Jan 19, 2012

I would use aircraft safety wire. It comes in .020, .032, or .041 diameters. A aircraft mechanic at your local airport will probably be willing to supply you with enough to do your job, or, you can order it by the 25" roll from various aircraft supply houses. The .032 or .041 is probably what was used by IHC.

Harold H

riverbend · Jan 19, 2012

Look up 'safety wire'. The wire is routed so it tends to pull the fastener tight. You don't need the special pliers, but they make a nice looking job.

Greg

screwstick · Jan 19, 2012

Any wire will not work, ESP not re-bar tie wire.
As Matt and Harold said, it's safety wire, and you more than likely want to look for .032. There is a learning curve for proper safety wiring; twists per inch, wiring in the tightening direction, and having no slack/space at the connection points. Safety wire pliers are also a big plus to have.
Also, there is a big difference between safety wire and an anti-tamper wire device. An anti-tamper wire will usually be copper.
So with all this, I think I'd just do as John recommends, and use Loctite. Simple, easy, cheap and just as effective.

Wired bolts

Jim Paterson

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Ellis Kinney

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Jim Paterson

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Farmallhal

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JDnTN

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Farmallhal

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gene bender

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John M

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BoonvilleKid

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Nebraska Cowman

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mkirsch

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Harold H

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riverbend

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screwstick

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