How if the bearing splitter used on the front pulley?

I just breezed through my service and operators manuals and I didn't see anything about the bearing splitter being used to take off the front pulley. I did read the I&T manual, but don't own it. It may have been in there.

Is the splitter placed between the two smooth pieces of metal then drawn down at the same time the puller is tightened? OR is the splitter placed on the back side of the pulley and used to pull against? If it is placed on the back side why can't I just make a plate to slide behind the pulley?

Who sells a decent splitter that I can afford? By the way, TSC sells a 2 1/2" socket in 3/4" drive for $20. I'm not sure it is deep enough. My new HF set was barely deep enough and not deep enough to be completely safe.

"Is the splitter placed between the two smooth pieces of metal then drawn down at the same time the puller is tightened? OR is the splitter placed on the back side of the pulley and used to pull against?"
Place the splitter against the back of the pulley to distribute the forces used for pulling.


"If it is placed on the back side why can't I just make a plate to slide behind the pulley?"
You can make a plate to use. Some on here have done so with great success.

The idea here is to distribute the pulling force so that you don't break the pulley. Splitter or plate, whatever it is as long as it distributes the pulling force.

U plate or splitter.. whatever works.

I used a big honkin chinese 'pittsburgh' splitter.. it was plenty beefy.. I used a bottle jack, and backing plate. in the end I puleld the flange off the puleld on my C's crank nose.

I ended up splitting the remnant of the hub carefully with a die gringer about 80% of the way, staying out of the timing cover AND crank nose. then split it with a chissle.

some goofball had used EPOXY and glued the pulley on to the interference fit crank snout.

I got a new pulley, and added neverseize and grease to it after polishing the crank snout and cleaning up the front of the engine, governor, and putting a new seal / cover on..e tc.

used a 3/4 impact wrench and gr 8 bolt and piece of 1/2" plate cout round with a hole int he center as a pusher to reinstall the hub.

tain't coming off easy I can tell ya!

if you search back a couple months you may see threads from me working on my C.. many many pics Iposted of the repairs.. and pics others posted to help me.. especially puller setups.

I ended up building a backing plate using rods and a jack and a big bearing splitter.

idea was good.. just wasn't meant to deal with an epoxied on pulley that was already interference fit...

good luck

ps.. i hear some models have a set key.. not sure what you are working on.. etc..

I just cut a circle the dia of the pulley and then the u-cut so it would slide ofer the hub and a three jaw puller and have pulled a bunch of them sometimes i do use the torch to warm up the hub as some sure seem to be harder to remove than others same with the set screw. I have a thingy made to press them on with a jack.

(quoted from post at 17:00:00 01/14/12) I just cut a circle the dia of the pulley and then the u-cut so it would slide ofer the hub and a three jaw puller and have pulled a bunch of them sometimes i do use the torch to warm up the hub as some sure seem to be harder to remove than others same with the set screw. I have a thingy made to press them on with a jack.

Click to expand...

I think I will start with that plan. I'm thinking 1/4"???

Soundguy, I remember that now that you bring it up! I am working on a WD-9 and it does have a key.

when i put mine back on.. I used a new pulley.. and had no luck with the jack putting it on.. had to use a 3/4 impact driver..

here's what I did...

Probably goes without saying - but if you're using any kind of puller with a thread - threaded rod or whatever, make sure you grease the threads good first.

It's one of those things that gets ignored quite often, and it can make a HUGE difference in how much pulling force you get for a given amount of crank force.

Not only does it make it easier, but it'll give you a lot more force before distorting threads.

Here is what I made to pull the crank pulley off my son's Super C.
All the dimension are listed on photos, I used my porta-power. But I have seen hydraulic jacks that will work laying on it's side.

HTH





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Picture demo, putting pulley back on motor

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Thank's for the pictures guys. It looks like all of the pulleys are a little different in size. My WD-9 pulley is 7.5" outside and 4.25" on the inside.

Are three jaw pullers not strong enough that everybody is using hydraulic jacks?

I believe the reason for the plate very gear pullers is the plate gets behind the center hub of the pulley whereas the 3-jaw gear pullers break the outer flanges off the pulley, Hal.