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Farmall 460 engine replacement/rebuilt, cost??

R

Ralph Bauer

Well-known Member
Came across a McCormick Farmall 460LP with a 2 row McCormick cotton picker attached (at the rear) and the appropriate sheetmetal under the belly. Was bought for and only used to pick cotton, never anything else. After a self propelled AC 4-row was purchased, it was parked and never moved again (year unknown). Exhaust had bucket on it, but rotted and water came/comes in through the exhaust, been uncovered now for years. What else might I be looking at besides the engine as far as water damage is concerned? Without tearing engine apart, could it be rebuilt or would I be better off finding a replacement/rebuilt engine for it, cost either option?
I like to talk its owner out of it and redo it to working condition, cotton picker and all.
Could not see a tag where its supposed to be and don't have pick yet, but rear wheels have spokes, reg. tractor tires. Front end is an adjustable row crop aftermarket (Schwartz (???) from MI???????).
Thanks for any input. Ralph.
 
The engine is probably stuck from rainfall getting into the cylinders and causing rust. You can probably disassemble the engine, but you would probably need a new sleeve kit. I would have the engine magna-fluxed for cracks before buying any parts. Hal
 
Weberstractorworks has a sleeve kit for $450.00.
Your local auto machine shop can give you a ball park figure for hot tanking the block, grinding
valves, but may need to look at the head to see if the valves are too thin to grind and if it needs new guides. Crankshaft would have to be measured for wear and may only need to be polished. If it needs to ground undersize the cost goes up. Buy your bearings from them. If this engine block isn't cracked I would rebuild it. Then you know what you have. Hal
 
As El Toro indicates, Rebuilding it is the best. I will ad that the engine block can crack under the sleeves. They are dry sleeves and if not removed, hidden damage can be discovered after parts are purchased. Jim
 
Ralph, I just went through this. Engine set from R.F. Engine Service $1100. S-P set, gaskets, 12 valve guides, 6 exhaust valves, 12 springs, rod & main bearings, 6 wrist pin bushings. Repair sleeve in broken cylinder wall $400 (including degrease block and head). Fit 6 wrist pins $80. Turn crank $100 damage from anti-freeze in crankcase, after cyl. wall froze and split.) Injectors rebuilt (water damage) $1240. Understood you have non-Diesel, should give you some idea. If motor is stuck, just unbolt the crank and lift it out. Sleeves are a push-fit in the block, they'll come out with the pistons in most cases. If they stick in the block, they break up real easy, don't spend big $$ on a sleeve puller. Fritz
 
Thank you for all the info. Will work on making it mine first, but it'll give me a pretty good idea what to expect, work and $ wise. With all the other projects I have lined up, I may have to go into the oilfield for work after all ...or deliver pizza in the evening...lol
Have a great week, everyone!
 
It's too bad the bucket rotted off because if it hadn't the engine would probably be in real good shape inside. LP burns cleaner than gasoline and from what I've been told, the engines last a lot longer because of that.

If there's water in the engine, there's probably water in the transmission too, so you have your work cut out for you.

Who knows, though? You could get lucky. No way to know until you get it home and get the head off.
 
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