Hello all, second post here. I have a model 311 fast hitch plow that I'm using with my Farmall 350 with fast hitch with traction control. When I try to plow with it it starts out fine but after a little while the hitch will let the plow go deep as hitch will allow. I had the traction handle all the way up and down and still same thing. How do I adjust the hitch and traction control? I'm plowing in sandy soil in NC Thanks Josh
- Thread starter F-12 guy
- Start date
Janicholson
Well-known Member
To the best of my experience, there is limited effectivness of the traction control. Does it work? ---some--- the system is pure mechanical, dealing with pull points and angles on ramps at the front of the hitch yolk. Do not depend on it to do much. I do not know whether your plow has a depth gauge wheel on it. If so, it can be set to limit depth. The touch control lever can be used to adjust the depth manually as you go if no depth gauge wheel is present. Your plow has enough suck if it will burry itself, so the issue is one of monitoring the depth. The angle of attack into the ground should be such that if the tractor was on a 8inch platform the plow should be sitting flat on the level ground (does not include tilt. as when only the left wheels are on the 8 inch rise). Jim
oregonfarmer
Member
I have a 311 on my 560 and it did the same thing. I got tired of all the problems with the draft control and plumbed it to the side remotes.
I know that some will say that I could have fixed the control, but it works fine for me this way. It does'nt drift down or up now!
I know that some will say that I could have fixed the control, but it works fine for me this way. It does'nt drift down or up now!
Fast hitch cylinder should have a rod to set depth. If hitch keeps going down the cylinder is leaking internaly or the check valve at rear of the steel line is not holding. Or front of tractor is raising. If the mechanical traction control is working correct a 350 with a 311 will try to raise front off the ground on a hard pull. Higher you raise the handle the more the fast hitch will try to raise the plow on a pull. Or more weight shifted to rear wheels. Pin for down pressure needs to be removed for plowing.
Prongs on the plow have adjustment holes mounting them to plow, moving prongs lower will help the plow go shallower if I remember correct.
Prongs on the plow have adjustment holes mounting them to plow, moving prongs lower will help the plow go shallower if I remember correct.
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
A large diameter depth gauge wheel affixed nearer the front of the plow works best for me if the hydraulic cylinder will not maintain depth.
On a 350 and all later Fast Hitch prong sockets, the sockets are free to rotate on the bail when the 3/4" pins are removed and stored in their nearby storage holes. These pins have a 'D' ring to facilitate their removal.
I have never read any set-up literature on plows but I believe the pins come out when plows, harrows, and cultivators are mounted. This will allow the implement to achieve its proper level. The earlier 300-400 Fast Hitches used a separate cylinder to get the same action.
I am not a farmer so what do I know. I am surprised that I am the only one who mentions the removable pins on the sockets. You can see on the socket below, that the schmuck who ran this 806 socket did not pull the pin when using ground engaging tools. It cracked the formed metal as a consequence. The socket was bought from Marty. It will need repair.
<a href="http://s140.photobucket.com/albums/r16/Wardner/?action=view¤t=W-400075.jpg" target="_blank">
![W-400075.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket](https://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r16/Wardner/W-400075.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket)
</a>
I have never read any set-up literature on plows but I believe the pins come out when plows, harrows, and cultivators are mounted. This will allow the implement to achieve its proper level. The earlier 300-400 Fast Hitches used a separate cylinder to get the same action.
I am not a farmer so what do I know. I am surprised that I am the only one who mentions the removable pins on the sockets. You can see on the socket below, that the schmuck who ran this 806 socket did not pull the pin when using ground engaging tools. It cracked the formed metal as a consequence. The socket was bought from Marty. It will need repair.
<a href="http://s140.photobucket.com/albums/r16/Wardner/?action=view¤t=W-400075.jpg" target="_blank">
Josh, I did a lot of plowing with a 400 and a 311 plow years ago. First thing I did was remove the pins from the fast-hitch as mentioned earler. Then I set the cylinder stop to limit how much the plow could drop. Finally I set the gauge wheel so it would mainly hold the plow at the depth I wanted. Basicly the depth was controlled by the gauge wheel. Only other thing I would do in hard ground is slightly set the tilt cylinder downward monmentary when dropping the plow. But your 350 don't have this cylinder. Still have the plow and only use it to plow the garden with my 350 FH. It seems to work OK on it too, but I always use the gauge wheel. Al
Thanks guys for the help so far. When I got home from work today I moved all the pins on the hitch to where they should be for plowing. I move the two on the sockets, the ones that let the hitch float up and down and side to side. My plow does not have the depth wheel on it. I went and made a couple a rounds in the field it plow a lot better but still sinks after a while. I set my cylinder stop at depth I want but the rod will work back up and plow is sunk in ground again, this may be the problem.
As for the cylinder, on the hitch, I have been told that the stop is what keeps it from leaking down over night. Mine will do this and when I set my stop it would hold it there, but know the stop will not stay where I put it. Is this the way the cylinder works or is there something wrong here. Thanks again. Josh
As for the cylinder, on the hitch, I have been told that the stop is what keeps it from leaking down over night. Mine will do this and when I set my stop it would hold it there, but know the stop will not stay where I put it. Is this the way the cylinder works or is there something wrong here. Thanks again. Josh
Brendon-KS
Well-known Member
- Location
- Goessel, KS
According to the 350/450 Fast Hitch manual, the sockets should be free only with plows and the middle buster without gauge wheels. For all other implements listed (disk, subsoiler, tool bar, cultivators, and middle buster with gauge wheels) they are to be pinned rigid. The vertical float lock pin at the base of the cylinder should always be removed when using mounted implements, though.
Josh, I would think your problem is with cylinder or check-valve. I have a 400, 350, and 450 all with fHs and the cylinders will not drop from the set position on any of them. Since you don't have a guage wheel, I believe only the cylinder keeps your plow from dropping. I have never taken a cylinder or check-valve apart, so can't help you with that. Maybe someone else can. Al
The stop is not meant to hold up the cylinder. It is meant to push a button on the body of the cylinder that bypasses the hydraulic pressure and makes it stop retracting.
It still depends on the seal inside the cylinder to hold the load.
A plow puts a LOT more down force on the cylinder than just sitting in the shed. The friction of the stop clamped on the cylinder was enough to hold the drawbar up, or even the raised plow, but the pressure of the plow digging will slide it without a doubt.
It still depends on the seal inside the cylinder to hold the load.
A plow puts a LOT more down force on the cylinder than just sitting in the shed. The friction of the stop clamped on the cylinder was enough to hold the drawbar up, or even the raised plow, but the pressure of the plow digging will slide it without a doubt.
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