Excessive Steering Wobble at Speed

I am working on a 1941 "H" that when on the road, excessive wobbling of the front is experienced. The steering play is very loose when sitting still. I've tightened the sector gear as instructed in the I&T manual, being carefull not to overdo it, but still get the same result. I've also been told about (and did so), turning the sector over and reinstalling but no difference. I guess this is worn out. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Vinnie L.

I'll watch for a reply too , My 49 Super "A" is doing the same thing. With the steering arm held stationary , theres a 1/3 of a turn of slop....

I just had an old boy say that it looks like I may have to replace the worm gear (and steering shaft) and sector with new. He says that they are replaced as a set. I don't know where and/or if these things are still available new. Probably very expensive. Good luck Dalex.
Vinnie L.

There are Four primary issues to be delt with. The gear you have wotked on is one of them. The second is worm endplay. The cap at the gearbox front (where the worm gear would come out) is covering a ball bearing. This bearing is a deep groove bearing designed to take all steering forces as the sector tries to move the steering shaft (attached to the steering wheel) back and forth. This bearing wears and can be a problem.
Check it by turning a bit of strain to the right on the steering wheel. Then make a mark with a felt tip marker where the shaft goes into the gearbox. Now put force on it to the left. The mark will turn with the shaft, but it should not come out toward the driver, or in and dissapear. If either happens, it is an indication that the bearing mentioned above it toast. The bearing is a good number, and common at a bearing store. Do not use a cheap bearing here!!!
Next is the bolster shaft (the shaft that the sector is mounted to) this has a bushing at the top, a ball bearing about the middle, and a bushing at the bottom. These are all replaceable and available. The shaft may be worn. It is OK if less than .001" is measured wear. Welding it and turning the shaft is best practice.

Lost motion in the universal joint at the midpoint of the steering shaft is the laast looseness check. There are replacement Ujoint "crosses" Trunions that can be used on some. Others might need to be replaced as a unit.
Jim

On the A start with the tie rods then to the drag link. If those two arent worn you need to go into the steering sector as there are bushings and bearings pluss two seals and all just mite need to be replaced but just start with tie rods and the drag link first.

I had bad wobble on my 1950 H. The looseness was between the worm gear and circle gear. Took it all apart, rotated the circle gear, the bushings were OK, etc. Tried everything, nothing worked. I noticed the middle teeth of the worm gear were thinner than the outer teeth. I ground off 1/4" of the rear of the worm gear, and built a 1/4" spacer that fit between the bearing and the front of the worm gear. This pushed the worm gear 1/4" aft, and brought thicker teeth into play.
I also noticed that the bottom oil seal was actually missing, so I installed one; that probably was why I had so much wear; no lube.
Installed oil seals. Whipped up 50/50 mix of wheel bearing grease and 90 wt. trany oil, and poured that in.
Fixed it. Drives on the highway with no slop, steers like a car, just a slight correction every now and then. I actually have forgotten about it.
HOWEVER, I worry that the grinding will cause fatigue cracking of the worm gear shaft. If you do this, do it at your own risk.
But it fixed mine.

Mine had a lot of slop so I removed the big pipe thread cap on the front of the upper bolster and put a washer behind it against the end of the worm gear, which fixed it. What seemed to have happened to mine was that the worm gear was moving forward and backward when it turned because it or the housing was worn, or both.
Zach

"Big Pipe Thread cap". Please tell me how this item can be removed. I assume, from your description, it is threaded. I have not been able to remove mine (from a SC). The cap has four flats, but they are all on a taper, more narrow near the front of the cap, so a standard wrench just slips off. I've been afraid to put a pipe wrench on it until I find out what the correct way of removal it. Thanks.

vinnie, the steering shaft and gear are available on this site for about 120 dollars each. also, carter and gruenewald sells a rebuild kit for the front bolster, comes with bushings, bearings and seals. about 150 dollars or so.

Thank you all for your help, this is invaluable information. Vinnie L.

Vinnie - I didn't see anyone mention the actual wheel bearings. I had to change them on my H to stop the wobble. They can be tighten also - just remove the cap on each wheel and the cotter pin that prevents the nut from moving and you can adjust the tightness. Don't want them too tight.

Pipe wrench is good. Lefty Loosy. If necessary Get rid of the taper (some) with an angle grinder and flap wheel.

Thanks. That's what I needed to know.

do you recall what size of washer you used