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Read this before you remove the balancer D-236,D-282, others

F

Fritz Maurer

Well-known Member
Busted up a good pulley using the bearing splitter method as per I-T manual. Found out after I got it off that there's a deep, square surface between the spokes on the back of the pulley. Take a standard 3-jaw puller and turn the hooks facing outward. The surface behind the pulley will be filled with dirt, take a right-angled instrument and clean out between the spokes. There's a whole lot more meat to pull on back there than the outer flange of the front pulley. Fritz
 
Thanks for the warning. I wasn't sure how to go about it. It looks like a job I need to do in order to set up a front hydraulic pump on my 660.

It must be a hard pull. Should heat be considered? I suppose those pulleys are still available from CaseIH should there be a catastrophic failure.

I hope all I have to remove is the front sheet metal and radiator.

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mkirsch,

That is the front of my 660 taken last summer prior to making other stuff for that location. I made the hex-bar extension by squaring off the far end to fit a socket for the crankshaft nut. It worked well but is not all that "holy". I know, you thought I was building a NASCAR starter.

Here's another picture. This doesn't work as I cannot keep it from unwinding. Need the special dampner or modify the one I have.

No, the loom does not hit the coupling or shaft. It is protected with a piece of copper tubing which is slightly out of position in that photo. It is held secure with a clip that is not shown.

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No, they don't come off THAT hard... maybe about the same force as your average domestic V-8. But if there's a small flaw in that outer flange... besides, I don't like the wedging action of the bearing splitter. Also, a splitter that big costs a fortune.
 
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