560 wide front for M

Found a wide front that came off a 560. Probably gonna go look at it sat. It doesnt have hubs on it, will hubs from an M fit the spindles? Ive never seen how a 560 front mounts guy assures me it will fit, but will it without modification? Thought Id run this by the experts before driving two hrs. Thanks ahead of time.

The hub from a M will not fit on a 560. I put a 560 wide front on a M once, I had to make spacers for the front, and use the 560 hubs.

You need an M thru 450 wide front if you are using an IH front end.I am NOT sure about after market???(Shwartz,ect)

Ok so this is probably not worth driving to see then. My garage is a super tight fit Ive already had to cut my muffler down to the same height as the steering wheel to get under the garage door so I dont want any added height.

Are you using your tractor in "hilly" terrain??? (They ARE more stable) or do you just want the look of a wide front???

A stock narrow front turns 100x quicker than anything else! If you dont need a wide front,I would not buy one.
I own both and if i was "flat ground"farming all the time,my narrow front would be on ALL the time. 24/7

MY opinion

Where are you located? I have a couple extra complete IH WFE's for the M in Napa

Its gonna be used on alot of hills (NE TN.). Mostly with a loader and on the bush hog. Its a retired puller that I just cant part with.

If on hills A N D a loader,I would definitely want the wide front end of some sorts!

Still have to flip wheel centers, find a wide front and put on a few odds and ends. Kinda nice though bein in the garage on 10 degree nights though. Thanks for all the replies you guys have saved me a alot of time!

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Heres the pic I tried to post mustve copied the wrong code. Thanks again!

If the front is good and the price right it can be used. Rear wish bone socket support for a 560 being to tall is the only thing keeping a 560 front from bolting up to a M. Thats why some space down axle mount casting. Cut the bottom off rear support to shorten it the amount needed. Weld a flat steel plate back on and drill the three holes for socket mounting. Good welding job and grind smooth and most won't know its modified.
Bearings and cups can be put in M hubs to fit to 560 spindle. Can't remember if the inside cup was the only thing changed but thats the only old bearing box I could find. Timken cup LM 603014 in M wheel used with the 560 iner bearing. Double check what fits on bearings, to long ago to remember.
Tractor will sit lower with a 560 front if not spaced down compared to a SMTA to 450 one. Shorter knee on a 560.
You also will need to drill frame rails to mount the rear support for a SMTA to 450 or 560 wide front. Or if a rear support for a SMTA to 450 is used it works without changes to support.

Good lookin!

(quoted from post at 18:18:47 01/04/12) Are you using your tractor in "hilly" terrain??? (They ARE more stable) or do you just want the look of a wide front???

A stock narrow front turns 100x quicker than anything else! If you dont need a wide front,I would not buy one.
I own both and if i was "flat ground"farming all the time,my narrow front would be on ALL the time. 24/7

MY opinion

Click to expand...

Mike, the wide front stability issue has been discussed quite a bit here on YT, and the general consensus is that a wide front axle does NOT add enough (or no) stability to make it a good reason to switch. Stability comes from proper ballasting of the REAR wheels and common sense while operating the tractor on slopes OR with a front end loader. If any tractor with a narrow front can be upset on a sidehill, adding a widefront axle will NOT make any difference. 70% of a tractors weight is on the rear axle, why would adding adding a wide FRONT axle make any changes?

Yes, a wide front end only gives the ILLUSION of more stability.

If the wide front were rigidly mounted to the frame of the tractor, it WOULD be more stable, but it isn't!

There is a pivot pin right in the middle of the axle... As the tractor tips over, the front axle simply pivots and stays firmly planted on the ground.

The axle doesn't "catch" until it's too late. By then the tractor is tipped too far over for the front end to stop it.

Wide fronts mostly improve the ride.

To get stability, turn your wheel dish out, add wheel weights, (and or liquid), and set rear wheels wide. The only time a wide front is better than a tricycle is in mud. The wide front does not add stability.

Harold H

Located in kingsport Tn.

Thanks, Ill probably be driving it anyway to look at a loader same guy has. Ive been thinking about ways to modify to make it fit.

I am probably picking a bit of a fight,(NOT meaning to! ALL in good fun!) But here goes!

The wide fronts DO add a degree of stabilty.It is NOT a fool proof way to keep the tractor from tipping the over,but they do help and here is whyBTW,I am NOT a good scientist)

On a tricycle set up,the bottoms of the tires are the "hinge points" for the tractor to roll over on.BOTH Front tires AND rear tires.These hinge points are EQUALL to each other.Picture two engine stands with their plates that you bolt your engine to facing each other both bolted together.They have both pivot points equal,so you SHOULD be able to spin them freely.They are even.

NOW,lets change the relationship of these points by setting the front pivot point approximately 24" higher than the rear one.Bolt them back together.NOW they will not both spin over beacause their axis are uneven. This is the same thing going on with the wide front end.The hinge pin on the front axle is the pivot point for the front end now,NOT the bttom of the front tires!

Since the hinge pin on the wide front axle (FRONT pivot point)is now higher ,and now unequall to the bottom of the rear tires(REAR pivot point)the tractor will be put in a bind when trying to tip over.It is more stable.

But what is being said is valuable.Tire set out in the rear,weights,and MOST important,GOOD driving sense,are all good ideas.Because you can roll over just about ANY equipment if not careful.