Interesting thought, looking for feedback - Work Clothes

So, I have a couple of tractors that I am seriously considering leaving in their "work clothes", as well as the KB-5.

Answers are pretty simple when you are going to repaint, etc. However, if you are going to keep the old girl in her work clothes, what to do to "freeze it" in it's current state/condition. How do I preserve where they are at, and keep them from further rust/decay? What do each of you do who keeps 'em in their work clothes?

Looking forward to interesting dialog on this one...............

I am a big fan of the "User friendly" tractors.The only problem is with the rusty ones.Once you have a good coat of rust on them,it is not only on the surface,but actually INTO the metal.If you keep them in the barn,out of the rain/weather,it seems to help slow down the process?If you got one that leaks oil over itself.it helps to keep bare metal perserved in some areas.I really like them with SOME kind of paint job on them.I am a big fan of "touch up" painting on a "user grade"tractor myself.

Another problem is when ever you have to replace parts,that kinda automatically changes the state of the original condition,doesnt it???

I am in a new habit also of when I rebuild a component,like recently my brake covers,I just sandblast and paint ONLY that part,leaving the rest of the tractor alone.When I rebuild my starter here in the near future,it will look factory new,but I am not gonna do a thing to the older looking bell housing area.(a little cleaning maybe?)

One day I have plans to make it look REALLY good,but I feel right now it would be a waste of time because I use it for EVERYTHING and it would just get scratched up! The first tree branch that swiped the gas tank while I was mowing would just make me wanna curse! lol

Is this the new era of "Rat Rod" tractors?Mechanically sound,but the looks of the exterior are all across the board??? I like em all from running good,but ugly, to the OVERLY restored"show ponies".But the "worker tractor" will always be my favorite.

Mike, I hear you. Just for info, the repair parts that I have purchased for the Regular and the F-14 are in the same condition as the tractor's currently are, so they don't "stand out". I have actually invested the time to ensure the condition of the part matches the tractor.

Yeah, i can be analretentive at times...........

My opinion, I think Mike's got it about right. Rust is corrosion, and when iron starts to corrode it doesn't stop, it forms a heavy thick water-attracting oxide. Which prmootes further corrosion, and pitting. Pitting of iron cannot be stopped, it keeps on going, and cannot just be painted over, becasue the pit will promote further corrosion. Leaving tractors out in the rain just makes it corrode 10X faster.
Just my opinion, if I wanted to keep the tractor, if I didn;t want it shiny, I'd just prime it a nice red-brown primer, and stick in under a roof.

Tom,Do you have a place to put the KB in from the weather? Hope dry with concrete floor.
Unlike a tractor, trucks have spot you can"t get to easy. Inside doors, under head liner, under and behind seat. Any rust in these place"s will fester and cause problems down the road. Power wash under carrage wire brush and coat with
something oil? Paint? lube? I do like the old look but it will not stay for ever. oldiron29

Would polyurethane work? It works on wood to do the same thing you are looking for. Clear coat (is this the automotive name for polyurethane?)

This H is a "survivor" I don"t do anything to it except keep it in at night.



This John Deere A has even less paint on it. I have sprayed it with WD40 and keep it in heated storage.



There is a couple products you can buy. Owatrol oil and Penetrol Flood. The Owatrol is a European product and pricey. The Flood can be bought here at any paint store. They leave a clear finish and protect and seal the rust. I sampled both but they leave a glossy look that I"m not sure I like. I"m hesitant to use it on a tractor at this point because I do not feel it will look natural.

I think the best possible thing you can do to preserve them is probably the easiest (if you have the space) - store them clean, dry, and out of the sun.

I'm willing to bet even the rustiest tractor will outlive your great grand kids if kept in a nice dry garage, if it doesn't have mud and debris all packed into its nooks and crannies.

A barn would be a second choice, but tends to be a lot draftier letting in moist air on damp days.

For the truck, don't even think about driving it until late spring when all the road salt's gone.

If their stored outside, that's a totally different matter. You'll have to convert the existing rust somehow, then coat it, and I'd guess that no matter what you do, it's going to change the look.

This is my "go to" machinery.It has done LOADS for me.The ONLY thing that has done MORE for me is my family or a few friends!

(Probably shown this pic too many times?)Has been repainted once before I owned it,but I dont think I will ever make it in BETTER than show room condition.I have the capability,but if I did,I probably would never use it and what fun is that????

Saving parts for it all the time.One day,maybe when I am too old to use it,it might get the "show room" treatment??? Or,maybe pass it along to a younger enthusiast??? (If there are STILL any young tractor lovers left in the future???)

Mike, just curious - does that extra 24 ounces of weight on the front of the tractor make a big difference?

Good looking SM Mike ! Why does your air cleaner look different to me ?

Diesel fuel and a rag!

Yes sir,It does when I am grading the road!(Except I shift THAT "weight" to the light bar mounted tool box area!)

But,as always,I encourage ALL to "drink and grade" responsibly!!!

I had a post on this a few weeks ago by coincidence.

It is a Donaldson "Pre screener".It is a lot taller and has more surface area than the standard small cap. Most tractors I have seen either have the "short" standard cap,or the Donaldson PRE CLEANER "ball jar" type. I havent seen a whole lot like mine around where I am at.
Maybe someone can tell me for sure,but I think they might have used these on the 460/560 series also ?????

They still show pieces for the Pre Screener in the Case/IH on line catalog.

I was brought up to believe the primary purpose of
paint was to protect metal, and cleaning and
painting is part of a good maintenance program. I
can understand not wanting to spend a lot painting a
tractor or wanting to keep it original but for my
money clean real good and paint the thing every 15-
20 years, don't go overboard with two stage
automotive paint tractor enamel will protect just
fine. If you scratch it- touch it up.

I think simply parking out of the sun and rain would "freeze" it"s current appearance for as long as you are able to enjoy them. That patina comes from a combination of sun fading and use and the low present usage factor will maintain that wonderful "lived in" look. A tractor may need a rudimentary bath every couple of years though. I wouldn"t put any coating or oil on the painted surfaces as unintended consequences will not likely be reversible.

That is a good looking SM! However, it would look even better if it was parked in MY barn!!!

Seriously, I have one almost like it, except on LP, that I will be glad to get back together and out of the shop. Got the cover off to clean it out and reseal and decided it needed input shaft bearings and mainshaft bearing. Otherwise super duper ready to go.

A rusty tractor is not in it's work clothes. It is an abused machine whose prior owner(s) did not follow good maintenance procedures. Keep it painted with something and touched up. Future owners will bless you.

(quoted from post at 20:42:54 01/04/12) A rusty tractor is not in it's work clothes. It is an abused machine whose prior owner(s) did not follow good maintenance procedures. Keep it painted with something and touched up. Future owners will bless you.

Click to expand...

I haven't seen a paint container yet that claimed to make a tractor run or perform better. I'd also say those originals in their "work clothes" that still exist today usually were very well-maintained.

It's a wonder to me that any of the "original" tractors that exist have any paint left on them at all. If the tractor was never meant to last this long, the protective coating placed on the sheet metal by the manufacturer surely wasn't meant to. Even if kept inside every minute it wasn't in use, paint fades and wears away. Many climates speed up the process.

I saw most of what was a nice looking Farmall H that I worked on more than once sitting on a trailer going into a scrapyard last month. Owner was always worried about not scratching the paint and not at all worried about the lack of oil pressure. The tractor's new owners (presumably China) will not be "blessed" with the condition of the paint. If the owner would have concentrated on the condition of the engine and not the shine of the sheet metal, the tractor might still be in service instead of being able to see through the engine block.

There are some great tractors pictured. Paint them if you want, but they look just fine to me.

AG

Polyurethane can be single stage topcoat paint, another is acrylic urethane, not sure what type of urethane clear is. To use clear you have to prepare the surface, meaning scuffing or sanding, which will take off a lot of what is there. Otherwise it will peel off. Basically there are 3 choices, leave it alone, wax it, or paint it. If the paint is still solid waxing can work. But if it is outside, you need to do it once every month or two. And if you do that, eventually all the paint gets removed. "Work clothes" mean nothing to me, I paint them.

The only waterproof primer is epoxy, water does right through the rest of them. If you are going to prime it you might as well paint it. Primer takes a lot of work to make it stick -- or it will degrade also.

A tractor does not have to get scratched up, except for the parts that are used. Namely the floor pan (transmission cover) and the clutch and brake pedals, and in the case of the letter series the parts you have to step on to mount and dismount. Yes it will eventually get oily, etc, but it can be washed.

Your statement says TONS AG!

MAINTENANCE is key! If it needs a part,take care of it !!! Dont let repairs "slide"!

Fluid and filter change on regular intervals is VERY important.FIRST thing I did when I got my Super was change the rear end grease and engine oil.(Checked the condition of both for broken debris,water.BOTH were great.)I also have cleaned the complete hydraulic system twice now. They dont have any filters/strainers and brand new pumps cost $600-$800 dollars if you have to buy one !!!!!!

My dad drove some UGLY equipment in his time,but ALL of it had proper maintenance.I would like to know how many tubes of grease he had used on our stuff over the period of his lifetime???? (I still got like 5 grease guns hanging in my garage and barn !!!! lol

That is the way I am about it too CenTex.

Whatever needs fixed,I do it! I am not a bit afraid to tear apart the whole transmission,axle assembly,engine,ect. You let sh#t go and it will destroy OTHER major components!

Some people complain about how the price of petrolium has gone up,but a simple tube of GOOD grease I can STILL buy for about $4.00 and that has been CHEAP insurance on all of my "heavy duty usage" equipment!

Here is another "straight on" photo of the "PreScreener".

I like it because it is EASIER to clean up than the more common "short" caps

(Can you tell I have some time on my hands today? been REALLY "posting"on here today LOL)

I use to think that painting them up made them worth more. But both of mine are in work clothes. I might repaint the SM because I'd like to keep the sheet metal on it. But all of my tractors are under a roof. now my plows and stuff... thats a whole other story

G R E A T point CNKS !!!!

Primer is porous by nature.(Reason being,so as the paint will adhere to it!!!)

If you just leave something primered,you are on a "time period".The rust will eventually come back.(unless you seal the primer with paint,or some other top coat???)

As I have mentioned in some other post on here.I have lately seen some EXPENSIVE "rat rod" paint jobs on street rods that simulate paint wear and rust!!!!! At a distance,they look like some of our tractors we are showing on here!!!! The logic?????

This is a good topic that I think about all the time. I have a 1982
Massey Ferg 230 D that I got after my Dad passed away last year.
He loved his tractor and used it all the time. I remember Dads
favorite riding/driving position was to drive with his left hand on
the steering wheel while he rode with his right hand on the top
of the right fender. He could look over his right shoulder when
plowing or mowing or using the lift. There is a rusty, worn out,
hand print on this spot on top of the fender and I swear it is a
true match for his hand where he sweated and held on for all
those years. When I drive the tractor I find myself riding in the
same position without even thinking. It definitely takes me back
and lets me share some time with a man I really miss. I will post
some pics of it sometime. I would really like a way to put a clear
coat or something like that over top of it so it would not rust any
further but keep the same look.
Joel

Yes CNKS,you mentioned the parts the OPERATOR comes in contact with.

BUT ,the ENVIRONMENT the tractor contacts is an issue also. Tree limbs on the topside,Corn stalks on the under carriage,small tree limbs on the under carriage while mowing.
If it has "mounted" implements(corn picker,cultivators,planters)
All will leave their "marks" in the finish on the tractor.

(NOT trying to be a "smart A$$" just sayin!

We don't have trees in western KS. My point is you can take care of a tractor and it will look good for years. Yes, the drawbar and implement mounting places are wear points. Going through tall crops and weeds can cause wear on the underside. But, you don't have to drop a hammer on the sheet metal, or run into posts, things like that. I have been around tractors, off and on for 62 years--I think I know how to take care of them.

I totally agree CNKS!NOT trying to fight with you. I am ALL about not beating up on the sheet metal.

I was just sayin some wear is inevitable,but like you say,those parts needs regular maintenance.When I got my tractor ,the swinging draw bar had natural wear at the toung where the "stop blocks"would hit it on each side.I welded the "divots" up,ground them smooth,a little paint,and you cannot tell anything had ever occured!

I saw up the road from me a Super M grill the dude TRASHED to just get the radiator out of it to scrap it !!!!!! Instead of just unbolting it,he just HACKED the grill bars apart to get into it!!!! Sh#t breaks my heart!!!

It also used to p#$$ me off to watch my dad DRAPE log chains over the "Fat Fenders" on our Ford 600 to haul them around!I still got those old fenders in the shed.THEY GOT BIG FLAT SPOTS ON TOP OF THEM,and full of bondo!! (Those fenders are EXPENSIVE ,if you can EVEN find good used ones???) Reproduction FAT fenders are well over $600.00 now !

People that beat the heck out of stuff on purpose tick me off. There's a couple of these guys in every neighborhood. That being said, they own it, I don't.

To say that all 50+ year old machinery with poor paint was somehow neglected or abused by the owner(s) simply because of how it looks is pure baloney. People originally bought these machines to use them (not to see their reflection in their chosen color of paint), and in turn, help make them a living. Some people took great pride in how their machinery looked, some people didn't, and some really wanted to, but never really had the extra money to put the shine back on the sheet metal, but kept it mechanically sound. Some guys probably polished the paint right off of their tractors. There wasn't usually all that much there to begin with.

Stuff is going to get scratched, scraped, and nicked up if you use it. Proper use and properly maintaining machinery and not abusing it is obviously key. I'm going to be able to use my tractors and equipment, or they'll be for sale. I can't see how the people "enjoy" a tractor that sits under a canopy at shows, one that they wear white gloves and booties to drive in a parade, or one that once it's restored takes up permanent residence in the corner of a shed. That being said (yet again), they own it, I don't.

There was a ultra-sharp looking SMTA-D or SMDTA or whatever you want to call it that was at several local shows about a decade back. One Sunday evening the owner was winching it up on his trailer and I stopped to ask him some questions, mainly about the engine. Well, there was basically NO ENGINE in this tractor. No pistons, no rods, no guts in the head, no clutch or flywheel, and much more missing. The guy said someone would be looney to spend $10K+ to make it mechanically sound. The guy owned a paint/body shop and was using it to drum up business. It sure was a pointlessly pretty piece of crap in my book, but once again, it wasn't my tractor.

I'm all for painting tractors and machinery, so long as it's mechanically sound first. I put my money into parts before I put it into paint. The guy who spent $2K+ to have the H painted when the clutch was slipping and the engine had maybe 20# oil pressure didn't have his priorities correct. Again, it's my opinion. I didn't own it.

AG

WELL said AG !!!!

What good is it if it wont work ???

My entire life, I have been captivated on how a car or a truck or a tractor runs, not so much how it looks. In cars, I adore the concept of a "sleeper". Normal, average looking ride that will blow the doors off most of the competition. Not sure how many of you are old enough to remember the song from the 60's, "beep beep" where a Rambler blows a Caddy away, but that is me, all the way.

!http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l5Aae9ReI5Q

Now, I admire a good lookin' ride as much as the next guy, but an engine and drive train that "gits er dun" makes my knees go weak!

Good thread guys, keep it coming