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Drilling a shaft

C

clint s

Member
How would you guys go about drilling a straight shot into a shaft that cannot be removed from the tractor. It is a PTO countershaft on one of our other tractors. I have a good shot at the end of the shaft and plenty of room to work with. I have the an old coupler that fits on the splines of the shaft to make a jig, but unsure how to. Any thought??
Clint
 
Find a piece of thin wall tubing about 8" long, that fits on to the splines pretty well. Weld or braze a thin sheet metal cap onto the end. clamp this on the splines with a U clamp so the cap is 2 inches out from the intended hole. Set up a support at the capped end for a sharpie marker and turn on the PTO. use the marker to "dot" the center of rotation. (the pipe need not be too centered, you are making a center.) Use a small drill to pierce that dot, then go bigger until about 1/4" dia. Then put your drill in the hole and drill the intended starter hole in the PTO with the PTO running if there id no centering hole in it to begin with. Jim
 
I don't see the need to have the shaft turning at all. Just lock it in gear with the tractor off so that it can't turn and then drill the hole.
 
dont know how a drill bit will not burn at that speed, even with oil.gotta turn bit slow to do a good job.
 
I machine parts every day, and teach it. I am not claiming it is a great solution, I would make a jig in the machine shop, and drill it. But that is not what he asked. Differential speed between them is not more than 700 or 800 RPM, with a 3/16 bit making a pilot hole, there is no issue. A dull drill bit, or a cheap drill bit never makes good holes. It might take a cobalt alloy bit to do the job, but he was interested in centering, not drill quality.
I do not know what he needs the hole for, but again, it is his unit. If he needs to thread the hole, to retain a pulley or device, I would use a cross drilled hole, or the groove used in most shafts for retention. Jim
 
(quoted from post at 04:30:00 12/20/11) Can we ask what this shaft is,what is it on,and why the hole?
Click to expand...
It is a Fart trac 555
I had a bolt come loose and tear into some things. The tractor is split and this is the shaft that is in the tranny. There was a little Nub on the end of it that slid into the PTO shaft acting as a centering pin. I need to drill out and place a dowel to replace that little nub. I will take some pictures tonite when i get home
 
With this data, there is a need to grind off the nub flat. If the material is incredibly hard (it might be) EDM could be the only way to get it done, That would require it being removed. If it can be drilled, Putting a pointed diamond burr in a dremel tool in a bracket supported in a rigid clamping system centered on the end of the shaft. Drive the gearset from the other end while holding pressure on the dremel. This ground hole will be the center. Now do as described below, or set up a fixture to hold the drill axially with the shaft. Jim
 
ooh, ok now i see your engineering madness to get the hole centered and straight.no offence,lol. agree has to work.
 
(quoted from post at 06:23:10 12/20/11) Yea,do that.

If you give us more detail,we can give a better answer,or alternative ideas.
Click to expand...
DSCN1645.jpg

DSCN1647.jpg

DSCN1646.jpg
 
The second picture is the coupler that is ruined. I can weld on or modify it to make a jig if needed. The third is the piece broke, it just goes into a hole in the PTO shaft and just holds them lined up
 
clint; if you go to a machine shop nearby, they will have what are called "drill bushings" these are hardened steel, that you can use to get the exact center,,,measure the o.d. of the spline shaft, this will be the first bushing you need ,the second one will fit inside the first bushing and should have a 1/4"hole in the socond one that being the starter hole in the shaft.the bushings should be 1-1/2" long for good stability...all these bushing are ground to exact dimensions so they will keep every thing aligned and kept on center. you should ream the last 20 or 30 thousanths so as to be a tight fit for your dowel pin to replace the stub snapped of. a machinist will know just what you need and the proper drills to do it,,, john
 
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