I'm going to split my A for both a crank shaft seal and oil leaking on the other end from the transmission. I've split my H and M before so I know what's involved on the front end. My question is to do the back can I do that without the front being split and still get the clutch shaft to go back in place properly or do I need to split both ends at the same time.
- Thread starter Charlie M
- Start date
gene bender
Well-known Member
You say from other end of tranny so that means the front correct. You do need to remove the steering sector to remove the crank pulley then you can replace the front seal as its in the front cover of the engine.
Janicholson
Well-known Member
In my opinion you need the Engine off first to do the rear main seal, (and replace all worn clutch parts and T/O bearing while in there.
Then split the front off of the tranny to fix that seal while it is still split at the clutch.
Then put that system back together , then thew engine. Be careful, the front end can tip easily. Block everything well, and hold weight so it cannot tip. Jim
Then split the front off of the tranny to fix that seal while it is still split at the clutch.
Then put that system back together , then thew engine. Be careful, the front end can tip easily. Block everything well, and hold weight so it cannot tip. Jim
I did what CNKS did on a Farmall A back in 1975.
First I tagged all the wires and unhooked them & unbolted the steering from the engine block and rolled everything out from under the tractor. I used jack stands to support the engine. I used a 12 X 12 block of wood beneath the drawbar and used a chain hoist to support the engine. I removed the bolts and the engine is on dowels and I had to wiggle the engine to get a space big enough to get a screwdriver in to pry the engine off. It helps to have a helper. Once the engine is off you can pull the damper pulley and replace your front seal. Be sure to examine the hub on the pulley for a worn groove you may need a speedi-sleeve. Also a good time to check your clutch disc for wear. If its close to the rivets either have it relined or buy a relined disc. Hal
PS: Here's a pic of that Farmall A.
First I tagged all the wires and unhooked them & unbolted the steering from the engine block and rolled everything out from under the tractor. I used jack stands to support the engine. I used a 12 X 12 block of wood beneath the drawbar and used a chain hoist to support the engine. I removed the bolts and the engine is on dowels and I had to wiggle the engine to get a space big enough to get a screwdriver in to pry the engine off. It helps to have a helper. Once the engine is off you can pull the damper pulley and replace your front seal. Be sure to examine the hub on the pulley for a worn groove you may need a speedi-sleeve. Also a good time to check your clutch disc for wear. If its close to the rivets either have it relined or buy a relined disc. Hal
PS: Here's a pic of that Farmall A.
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