Reassembly Lubrication

I will be getting my engine block back soon from being cleaned and having sleeves removed. I've been told that as I reassemble the engine I should use some sort of lubricant on parts as I put them together (engine bearings, crankshaft bearings, etc.). What lubricant would you recommend, oil? Grease? Thanks.

Lubriplate
http://www.lubriplate.com/products/greases/no-105-motor-assembly-grease.html

Lubriplate Engine assembly lubricant. Jim

The IH factory at Louisville used engine oil in a squirt can to oil the bearings and piston rings. The oil pumps were tested after assembly so they were already primed. After assembly the engines went to motor test for several hours, quite a noisy place with several hundred running at once in one room, then to the tractor assembly line.
Joe

Lubriplate Engine assembly lubricant

lubriplate.

Another thing to do before you start the engine is to prime the oil pump and either turn the engine over enough to build oil pressure or fill the oil galleries with a pressure system thru the gage port so that as soon as it start there is oil to everything instantly. I use an air over oil tank hooked to the gage port. when it is pressurized it forces oil into all the galleries so pressure is built instantly on starting, no waiting for a filter housing to fill.

(quoted from post at 20:52:35 12/09/11) Another thing to do before you start the engine is to prime the oil pump and either turn the engine over enough to build oil pressure or fill the oil galleries with a pressure system thru the gage port so that as soon as it start there is oil to everything instantly. I use an air over oil tank hooked to the gage port. when it is pressurized it forces oil into all the galleries so pressure is built instantly on starting, no waiting for a filter housing to fill.

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Is the first start up much different than after an oil change?

STP or lubriplate, both have worked good for me.

with all due respect, the oil filter housing always drains out when the engine is shut down for these old girls. Your better bet is to turn the engine over with the starter, but the ignition off for about 20-30 seconds before the first start.

My humble opinion of course.

(quoted from post at 08:46:18 12/10/11) with all due respect, the oil filter housing always drains out when the engine is shut down for these old girls. Your better bet is to turn the engine over with the starter, but the ignition off for about 20-30 seconds before the first start.

My humble opinion of course.

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Wouldn't the parts still not have oil to them with or without combustion? Wouldn't the saturated oil filter have the oil to the engine quicker than a dry one?

I assume I know the answers to these but I should probably ask rather than guess.

I know a guy that rebuilt his engine and did not put ayn oil or lube on any of the parts and when he ran it about 20 minutes later it was knocking. spun 2 rod bearings and ruined the crank. PUT oil or lube on everything that moves and tyr to get oil pressure up befor it starts. Hope this helps.

Think about it this way. You put your tractor away for the winter (for those of you who don't use them all year). What do you think happens in the spring when you start them up for the first time? All the oil has left the filter cannister, and the oil has also run out of the journals on the crank and the rest of the block. Not much difference, except that the rings and bearings have "run in".

A brand new engine should have assembly lube. I personally crank a brand new engine over with out the ignition on for a bit to get the oil moving, but believe me, the oil starts to run out of the journals, galleries, and the filter immediately after you stop cranking it. There absolutely is some residual oil, but the journals and passages are NOT pressured up. If you use assembly lube, and put some oil in each cylinder (as is good rebuild practice), you prevent "dry" start damage. Heck, the IH manuals tell you to add oil to the cylinders after "long periods of storage".

On the letter series engines, all the rod and main bearings run on the oil film between the inserts and the crank, and it is the pressure of the oil flow from the oil pump NOT the bearing surfaces that the bearings ride on. On the F series, they do not ride on an oil film, and they do ride on the bearing surfaces (splash lube). Either engine should have assembly lube when first starting a brand new rebuild. There after, does anyone pressure up their oil systems before starting? hardly. Assembly lube is just good practice on ANY engine rebuild. A dry start can and ususally does either ruin an engine, or severely reduce bearing and ring life.

So, before anyone takes great offense to what I have posted, or spends hours typing about "what my brother's cousin's sister's father" did, think about how these engines work, and what the oil deliver systems do. Dry starts on a fresh rebuild is a big NO NO.

You just take the squirt can and shoot oil around the rings and sleeve?

pretty much and turn it over a few times to get it distributed........

I used lubriplate on the last motor I built. We used it in school years ago and never had a problem. Good luck on whatever you decide to use.
Charles

I've used lubriplate before and STP. They work great but mostly I use the oil that's going in the engine. I've come to realize that there are lots of specialty products out there and most of them can be substituted by ordinary supplies. Like oil instead of Lubriplate. I've rebuilt many automobile engines with just oil and never had one fail. Like others have said, just crank the engine over without the ignition on. Watch your oil pressure gauge and when you see the pressure coming up, it’s time to start it.