F-30 crank bearing removal question

Tom Fleming · Dec 3, 2011

Ok, since the Regular is on Xmas light duty for the time being in the front yard, I decided to take a look at the F-30 engine today. Fortunately, the guy I bought it off of, pulled the fly wheel, but stopped the. The rear main bearing is shot, which is why it is apart.

So, I got the crank out no problem, surprising easy. Now, I can pull the front main bearing no problem. The rear is making me scratch my head a bit. I am very leary of putting bolts on the retainer, and using a puller.

Anyone have any input here?

Also, on the tapered pin for the flywheel. All my maint books say install a new one. Has anyone resused the old one? I have it and it looks to be in good shape........

Old-F20 · Dec 3, 2011

either a big 3 jaw puller, or a hammer and punch will get that bearing off.

never tried a bearing seperator for the fact that the #4 cyl throw gets in the way

never have put in a new crank pin, but then again, ive never tore up an old one getting it out either

Tom Fleming · Dec 3, 2011

Thanks, I have plenty of 3 jaw pullers. I'll probably put bolts through the holes and pull from there. Will apply some heat too to expand the inner race a bit. Lot's of bulk in the crank, shouldn't heat up too bad. the bearing is junk, so no worries there.

36F30 · Dec 3, 2011

I stand the crank up on end and hit the inner race with a big brass drift and they come right off.

SB in IN · Dec 4, 2011

The tapered pin is a #9 tapered pin. You can get them at Grainger, Fastenal, etc.

Tom Fleming · Dec 4, 2011

Thanks to all who responded. The bearing are off, and without much of a fight. Applied heat to the inner race, and then used a heavy race punch (offset chisel, with flat end).

Now, crank is off to the machine shop for journal polishing. doesn't look too bad, but the rods have been out of it for 4 years, and have closet rash on them. Will have it polished, and put back in. Will pull the sleeves and put new O-rings on, and run a hone through them. Cam looks good.

Nebraska Kirk · Dec 4, 2011

I may have told you this before, but you can find new main bearings on ebay fairly cheap. The original numbers for the bearings are 1314 & 1316. The originals are the max-fill type with more balls than normal, however, since this tractor will probably be on light duty and not doing heavy pulling all day every day like when it was new, I see no problems with using new main bearings that have just the standard number of balls. The numbers for these bearings are 6314 & 6316. I put new main bearings in my Regular when I rebuilt it, I was able to find new bearings on ebay pretty cheap.

Old-F20 · Dec 4, 2011

unless that ting gets built to turn 75+ horsepower, you dont need the heavy duty bearings. standards work just fine

Tom Fleming · Dec 4, 2011

Thanks guys, I plan on using the regular ones (not max fill). About the only "hopped" up thing about this one, is she has the high altitude pistons in her. I need to cross reference the part number to find out if they are 5000 or 8000. Either way, they are NOT flat tops.

Other than that, she is gonna be stock. Will pull her at the antique tractor shows, and may be go a couple rounds at plow day with a 2-14 Little Genius (which shouldn't even make her kick the govenor in). Belt work running a thresher or buzz saw.

All "light duty" for an F-30.

F-30 crank bearing removal question

Tom Fleming

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Old-F20

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Tom Fleming

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36F30

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SB in IN

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Tom Fleming

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Nebraska Kirk

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Old-F20

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Tom Fleming

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