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Got the Head off the 400D

4

400D Guy

Member
One head stud was rusted real bad inside the head, and it took me 3 hours of coaxing it off to reveal the following:
4079.jpg


The rusted stud (bottom of picture) was the center left, which the previous owner had used to hold a power steering bracket, and never tightened it down. From my limited knowledge, that is the main problem with the head. I looked quickly at the bottom of the head, and didn't see any obvious cracks, but the surface was still dirty.

At least 3 water passages were completely clogged in the block and head, plus the one partially closed in the picture.

Question: Can I take the head in to a machine shop and expect them to be able to fit new valves, guides, seat the valves, flatten the head, etc., or do I need to go to someone that works on tractors? I'm hoping with the manual, they should be able to do it.

Also, can I just "rod out" (hanger wire?) the clogged waterways in the block.

I'm thinking of leaving the rusted stud there, because I'm afraid of breaking it off trying to remove it.
 
The head can be rebuilt at most automotive machine shops it is no different than other heads. Make sure they are told to maintain the valve head/seat depth in the head. If they are allowed to sink into the pocket, the compression will be so low it will not start or run well. Very important.
Using various tools and removing the waterjacket cover, it is possible to clean it up.
I would heat the studs red with a Oxy Acetylene torch. Let them cool to about 300 degrees then put a wax candle on the base to let wax get into the threads, then begin to work them to remove. They just look weak. Jim
 
I would have the block hot tanked and have the oil passages cleaned. I wonder why there's all that rust around that stud? Looks to like coolant was escaping. You may need to have that block magna-fluxed. Talk to them at your local auto machine shop. Hal
PS: I would have that crankshaft measured for wear. Buy your bearings from the machine shop. You also may need cam bearings.
 
(quoted from post at 16:20:23 11/26/11) I would have the block hot tanked and have the oil passages cleaned. I wonder why there's all that rust around that stud? Looks to like coolant was escaping. You may need to have that block magna-fluxed. Talk to them at your local auto machine shop. Hal
PS: I would have that crankshaft measured for wear. Buy your bearings from the machine shop. You also may need cam bearings.
Click to expand...

There was coolant in the oil pan. I removed the head to see what was causing the leak, assuming it was the loose head nut.

i'm guessing all that rust was because the head nut was never any tighter than about 20 ftlbs, and between it and the head was a piece of metal strapping, so water got down there for the 40 years it sat outside.

I'm going to clean it up a lot better in the next couple days to look for obvious cracks. I'm hoping it's not necessary to have it magna-fluxed -- that's going to be a lot more work just to get the block in there. What would I have to do - would everything have to come out of the block to magna-flux it? Thanks for your suggestions.
 
Call your local auto machine shop to see if it has to be stripped. I would fix the engine right while you have it apart. Hal
 
As others have indicated, any quality machine shop can rework that head. Depending upon what they find, might not be bad to do the block as well.
 
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