Need help with first start-up in 2 years!

heres the short story: i was given an M and it has not been started in around 1.5-2 years. i plan to do a working restoration w/paint but i have to make sure it runs correctly before i begin restoring all the pretty stuff....Here is what i plan to do initially to get it going:

Change ALL fluids (oil, coolent, trans/diff)
drain gas (if theres gas in the tank)
Complete lube job
new battery, plugs/wires
complete rewire w/lights
new belt

first of all, is there anything im forgeting or going overboard on?
Second, should i remove the carb and have it rebuilt/cleaned (ill have my local CASE/IH guys do it to ensure its done right)?
Finally, does anyone have a wiring diagram? its been converted to 12 volt...

If it was running good when parked and under cover out of the weather it may not need more than some fresh gas and jump to get it going.

Even though you probably WILL have to rebuild the carb, I wouldn't have that done until you know know for sure. if it was stored dry, it could be perfectly fine.

Have you tried cranking the engine at all? By hand?

I'd pull each plug and put a little oil in each cylinder, just for good measure.

Assuming it's not stuck - I'd pull the valve cover and just watch everything as you (or someone else) hand cranks it (be sure it can't start). Just to be sure no valves are stuck open.

While you're in there, might as well pour a little oil over the whole valve train.

I would also go under the assumption that the clutch plate is stuck to the flywheel. Make sure you're in neutral when starting, and if it starts and the gears are grinding when trying to get into gear, don't force the issue till you fix the clutch.

Draining the tank is a given, but also drain the bowl on the carb. If you're lucky, the previous owner did that when they put the tractor away.

I wouldn't toss all the gas, it's too expensive. Just mix it with fresh stuff and it should still be ok, but only after you've got everything running well.

Also - since you're draining the tank - do it from the carb end of the gas line - and while you've got it apart, check the screen in the carb inlet fitting. It's a good time to get any crud out of that.

You should also clean up the points - a little 400 grit sandpaper to shine them up.

I'm sure I'm forgetting other little details - but I think you'll be fine. Those engines are so forgiving it'd probably fire right up on the first crank without doing anything to it.

Only 2 yrs?!You're going way overboard.Just make sure the fluid levels are OK,then pour some gas in it and go.

depends entirely upon the local climate. Here in new england with constant temperature swings and lots of moisture/condensation, 2 years is a lifetime to sit, even sheltered.

I've seen 2 year old cylinder walls that look like they've been sitting at the bottom of the ocean for 10 years.

Assuming wires are being changed out for a reason other than "just because" I'd say a 1/2 hour of prep work before firing it up is well worth the effort. Even though I do agree that it probably will fire right up without a problem.

Only two years!?

Just go out there and start 'er up.

Allan

Only sat 2 years I would probably jump on it and see if it starts. If it does start go for it. If it does not start I bet the points need cleaned or replace and then go for it

I'd just pull the plugs & look at them, then while they're out, spin it over with the hand crank or starter to pump some oil around, then put them back in & see if it starts.

I has been stored in a covered barn in upstate NY.

(quoted from post at 12:28:01 11/25/11) I has been stored in a covered barn in upstate NY.

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As I said before, these things really are very forgiving, and you can PROBABLY fire it right up with some fresh gas.

BUT - it only takes a few minutes to squirt a little oil in each cylinder and over the rockers, and then clean up the points. Hand turn it a bit to be sure everything moves smoothly, and get some oil flowing.

You'll know right away if you've got a lot of corrosion in a cylinder because you won't be able to crank it at all.

If you can crank it, you're fine.

In NY, I'll guarantee you have some good surface rust on at least some of the cylinder walls, but that's really not a problem, especially if you squirt some oil in there first. (talking like a tablespoon or so)

While HAND cranking it, NOT using the starter (and be DAMN SURE it can't start - do it with all the plugs out - or you could die) have a helper sit on it, put it in gear, and step on the clutch while you crank. You'll know right away if the clutch is sticking.

As for changing wires/battery I wouldn't assume you need to do that, I'm just assuming you have a valid reason other than their age. Don't go by what they look like unless they're all frayed and broken.

Original plug wires tend to look horrible, but usually work just fine.

If it were me, I would take the drain plug out of the bottow of the carb bowl and drain out whatever is in the tank and the carb. Then I would pour 1 quart of fresh gas through it. Make sure you have good fuel flow. replace drain plug and put about a gallon of fresh in the tank.

Next, check the plugs and clean/gap if necessary. Squirt some oil in each cylinder, don't over do it, but get enough in to cover the top of the piston, and run down the sides. crank enginer over a couple of times with the plugs out.

check fluid levels and condition.

If all is good, put a battery in her and fire her up.

after 2 years, if it takes more than that to start her, she wasn't running well when put away.

IMHO.

Never replace a sequence of parts on an engine that is not running. DIagnose first and make it run with new oil, but changing many parts contributes to what you do not know, rather than assisting with what you do. The hardest diagnosis is multiple repairs that still have not fixed it. Jim

I would not mess with the ignition unless you need to. You have a greater chance of screwing up something that was OK. I would drain the gas as discussed, charge the battery and let it rip.

Your local Case/IH guy probably knows a lot less about an M carburetor than you do unless (1) you've never worked on one before, and (2) the Case/IH guy is over 60 and HAS worked on one before.

It has been my experience that "ran 2 years ago" means "I really have no idea when the last time this thing was started. It's probably more like 10-15 years."

Still, I would not waste any new oil on the tractor until you know it runs. Check the engine oil, fresh fuel, fresh battery, hit the button.

I agree with most of the guys here, put some good gas in it, check fluids, see if it will start. You will probably be surprised.
Steve also has a very good point about your local Case/IH guy. The only thing you are ensuring is that you pay an arm AND a leg.
If you really want to own a tractor and restore and maintain it yourself, you are gonna have to learn about the different components. The carbs don't have much too them, crack her open and take a look. Have your manual handy, if you do have any questions this forum is very helpful as well.
I would only mess with the carb if the tractor doesn't run or runs poorly, which even then may only be an adjustment issue.

I would take the plugs out of it and juice the cylinders with wd40 first, crank it over for about 10 seconds, give them another shot of wd40, put the plugs back in and see what happens.

it has been 2 years, it was my father in laws and given to my wife by her brother. thats the only reason i agreed to restore it, i knew who owned it and that it was not abused, i guess im very lucky in that respect.

Excellent point.

And if there's any doubt about that statement, just do a search on this site for "I had the carb professionally rebuilt" and "engine won't start".

You'd be MUCH better off getting familiar with the carb yourself.

50% of carb problems are blocked passages that you should know how to clean. Blockage can happen any time and for all sorts of reasons, even on a freshly rebuilt carb.

The remaining 50% are float problems that you should know how to fix too, since that can happen often too.

BUT having said all that - don't even touch the carb until you KNOW it's a problem! (other than to drain it)

Good points one thing more. Pull the plugs and squirt a little oil not wd40 in the cylinders. Crank the engine and check for oil pressure.