Do Cracked Head Repair Liquids Work?

I'm getting a couple of antifreeze drops in my oil. Do those head repair products you add to your radiator work (like Bars, etc.)?

I have used bars leaks, and it has postponed work needing to be done. Like leaky radiator, and in some circumstances worked to keep coolant out of the crankcase. Have to follow the directions and use enough for the size of the cooling system.

blue devil works well, expensive though 50 bucks



Andrew

My first question: Is this a recent rebuild??? second question: is this a 400 diesel????

If not:

If you are seeing anti freeze,it is getting time to actually repairing it.Unless you ABSOLUTELY cannot do it,it is time to start to think about dis assembly.

There is some errosion going on that the "bars leak" will only put off so long.It aint worth trashing a crankshaft over it.(Coolant is VERY abrasive on a bearing surface.)

For starts,pull the valve cover off and see if you can see any coolant around the head bolts.

Give me MORE detail,and I will give you a BETTER answer.

(quoted from post at 17:49:43 11/22/11) My first question: Is this a recent rebuild??? second question: is this a 400 diesel????

If not:

If you are seeing anti freeze,it is getting time to actually repairing it.Unless you ABSOLUTELY cannot do it,it is time to start to think about dis assembly.

There is some errosion going on that the "bars leak" will only put off so long.It aint worth trashing a crankshaft over it.(Coolant is VERY abrasive on a bearing surface.)

For starts,pull the valve cover off and see if you can see any coolant around the head bolts.

Give me MORE detail,and I will give you a BETTER answer.

Click to expand...

It is not a recent rebuild, and hasn't been touched for 30 years. It is a 400D. Will take the valve cover off in the next few days and see what's there, and report back.

I have had good success with Barsleak. It will seal small leaks and will do so without some of the "plugged" horror stories you hear. Now, if you put 3-4 bottles in like some dufus idiots have done, then you can plug things up. The important thing is to put it in a running, up-to-temp system, and then run it for at least 15-20 minutes there after. Follow the directions, and it will work on smaller issues.

It is NOT a replacement for fixing the root cause of the problem. It can be a stop gap fix to get the rest of the hay in, or the last of the plowing done.

I am not gonna "BS" you.It is time to take it apart.

Probably either a rotted head gasket(MOST likely)or a block/head bolt thread issue(maybe).Probably UNLIKELY,cracked block.(Unless you froze it up with water in it recently???)

Issue COULD be due to electrolysis.Diesels seem to do this alot.Errosion due to low volume electrical current produced by diesel engines.I have seen MANY,MANY engines deteriorated by this!It will eat up metal,but WITHOUT rusting.

E mail me back with the valve cover off.


Mike

i never had luck with any of those miracle products. some people say to throw in a bottle of pepper and it works but i have never tryed that.when its a leak its a leak and it has to come apart to fix it.

do you have reason to believe it's a cracked head vs a bad head gasket?

CNH sells ahead gaske sealant.. i know some shops that dump in a container of it on any rebuilds or head jobs they do.. kinda like tossing in a builders cube.. etc. 'just in case'

soundguy

soundguy

Had a 6.5 Chevy diesel in an otherwise great pickup that developed either a head crack or a bad head gasket...my son was driving it so I didn't notice anything until the "low coolant" light came on...

Long story shorter- the parts store as well as another buddy who was in the trade said a certian type of sealer would fix it....nope...didnt work. Teardown time..... BTW- anyone in 300 or so miles of North Central Nebraska have a good-running 6.5 they'd want to get rid of????

Just a bit of clarificaiton. Barsleak has a polymer in it that are actually small particles, VERY small. they actually act in the reverse of what one would expect. when they are saturated with liquid, they shrink and are small. When exposed to air, and they "dry out" they stick together and expand. The particles in this product behave very similarly to your blood when you get a cut. They form what amounts to a polymer "scab" on the leak. As long as they stay in suspension in your coolant, they shrink and do not "clot".

Also, a little history, this product (before it became commercialized) was developed for the US Navy in WWII to fix leaks on submarine water systems. It works and worked well. coming out of WWII, the product was commercialized. It is FAR from "snake oil", but it won't fix a 1/2" wide crack in your block either. Also won't fix a blown head gasket. But it sure does fix a cracked heater core in your vehicle, or bolts not sealing in the block that open into the water jacket.

Barsleak is NOT designed to fix combustion chamber leaks. It is NOT designed to fix large holes. It will seal small cracks, poor thread sealing, and other similar issues. Using this to fix major compromises in the cooling system will just not work, nor was it what the product was designed for.

Check the right front corner where the head meets the block. That is one of the problem areas for the head gasket.

Hey Ron, I think there is one sitting in Valentine. Heartland repair, behind Wards and JMS. It might be gone, but I know Bob had one there.

(quoted from post at 18:31:21 11/22/11) I am not gonna "BS" you.It is time to take it apart.

Probably either a rotted head gasket(MOST likely)or a block/head bolt thread issue(maybe).Probably UNLIKELY,cracked block.(Unless you froze it up with water in it recently???)

Issue COULD be due to electrolysis.Diesels seem to do this alot.Errosion due to low volume electrical current produced by diesel engines.I have seen MANY,MANY engines deteriorated by this!It will eat up metal,but WITHOUT rusting.

E mail me back with the valve cover off.


Mike

Click to expand...

I got the valve cover off and saw no evidence of antifreeze. I was very thorough and soaked up the oil in each head nut recess with a paper towel, examined the towels, shined a light down in the recess, and saw no "green" antifreeze residue anywhere.

I will next take the head off. Are there any tricks in it's removal? I have an engine lift. Will the head pop off fairly easily if I put some tension on the lift attached to the head? Any tricks will be appreciated.

As suggested, I will look at the front right corner of the head gasket Friday.

Mine was a head gasket and no cracks. I never saw anything anywhere other than coolant leaking out the RF corner. Not sure if this really applies, but I thought I would toss it out there.

When the head is off HAVE IT CHECKED FOR CRACKS AND FLATTENED OUT!!! That valve grind kit costs around $200 and you are just wasting money not doing a good job. I would also do the valves if I had the head off. I didn't think my MD needed a valve job, but then after I did it I can't believe the difference.