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H head studs, OOPS!

B

BEN in KS

Member
OK, time to 'fess up and consult the experts. My 15 year old and I removed the head and in the process twisted off one of the studs in the block. There are 16, according to the parts manual, 5 are shorter than the other 11. Dumb question, what goes where? Longest ones in the thickest part of the head? Thanks in advance for helping a couple of amateurs! Ben
 
When you get it out, let me know how you did it. Same problem with my Super M. The most stuck ones are those that go into the water jacket on the left side of the engine -- they are rusted in pretty good. I'm afraid of using too much heat. 5 more to remove after I get the broken one out.
 
There should be two longer ones that the govenor rod linkage bracket mounts onto. The best thing for drilling out studs is a Magnetic Base Drill gets it square and doesnt "Walk" around like a regular drill does
 
It is not easy, but drill all the way through the stud and then weld an oversized nut to the stud and it will come right out.
 
2 long ones go where the throttle pivot mounts and the other 3 where the head has the steel tubes cast in if I remember right.

Randy
 
Use a stick welder to weld a thick washer which is slightly smaller than the broken stud diameter to the broken stud. If broken off below flush, make circular passes on the stud until you get up to the washer surface. Then continue to circle weld onto the washer. At this point, weld a nut onto the washer around the outside of the nut. Pat yourself on the back for a couple of minutes while the heat penetrates down the bolt/stud. Use a wrench & rock the nut back & forth along with feeding penetrating oil to the threads.
If the nut or washer breaks off, go again with the welding thing.
Cover the block surface preferably with tin to protect it from welding berries.
I use 6013 rod that is less than 1/8---usually 3/32.
If the broken stud is above the block deck [never happens], your job is much easier.
 
Just a reminder when you put them back in seal the threads that go into the water jacket. Easy to forget that step.
 
Yeah, I did that. Leaked too. Tore it down for rebuild, so, how's the best way to seal them, but not seize them?
 
As another post said rent or whatever use a mag drill to remove the broken stud as it twisted off so it will not come out easy with the mag drill you will be able to get the hole in the center
 
I have found the best head bolt sealant is the Permatex teflon sealant.It comes in a small bottle with a brush.GOOD STUFF! We use it on all of our performance/drag race engines as well.Recommended to me by a professional engine building shop(Schmidt Racing Engines)

Carquest or NAPA should carry it.
 
Mike beat me to it - Permatex has a few products you can use - teflon is probably the best, so why not.

Be sure to thoroughly clean and degrease the threads - on the stud and in the block, before applying it.

It's the kind of operation you really want to do right the first time.

And the stuff isn't like locktite, it's not going to lock the stud in place.

Also, it's usually a good idea to put the head on pretty soon after applying the stuff to the studs - get everything torqued down before it sets up. (could be an old wives tale for all I know - but always seemed to make sense to me)
 
I had the drill centered and drilled through the stud. Thought the drill was straight, but the hole went in at an angle -- so much for that. The stud is broken off just below the surface. I don't have an arc welder, and am not about to let anyone weld on the surface of the block. I will try different things until I get it out.
 
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