Looking to swap an engine in an MD. We were planning on splitting the tractorand rolling out the front end by supporiting the front rails and swapping the enging with it suspended. My question is can I leave the pressure plate and flywheel and just slide the front of the tractor of the input shaft? Any other advice?
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Janicholson
Well-known Member
None of the above:
The rails must be removed, the rear supported by blocking the engine plate is between the FW and engine. The FW must be unbolted from the crankshaft after removing the clutch. The "new" engine will need to have a plate made for it, (assumes a different type of engine will be used) and mounts engineered for the front of the engine and throwout bearing ect. Best of luck.
Jim
The rails must be removed, the rear supported by blocking the engine plate is between the FW and engine. The FW must be unbolted from the crankshaft after removing the clutch. The "new" engine will need to have a plate made for it, (assumes a different type of engine will be used) and mounts engineered for the front of the engine and throwout bearing ect. Best of luck.
Jim
We are looking to swap the engine with the same engine. Why are you saying that the rails need to be removed? It looks like if we split the tractor and support the front rails that we can then remove the two fron mount bolts and pull the motor straight and and then drop the new engine in. Not so?
Janicholson
Well-known Member
not so. The frame rails are on the front side of the rear engine support. The Flywheel is on the other side of it. The engine support plate comes off with the engine. thus the rails must go. You will probably need to remove the dowel pins (with the threads) as well, some come apart, some do not. Put washers (repeatedly)under an appropriate nut to pull them out.
Look at the parts diagram at this link. Put Farmall in the box, then page 3 or find MD, then scroll to Assembly: Diesel engine 044 Crankcase front cover and support Jim
caseih
Look at the parts diagram at this link. Put Farmall in the box, then page 3 or find MD, then scroll to Assembly: Diesel engine 044 Crankcase front cover and support Jim
caseih
I still do not understand why you cannot slide the entire front end with the engine forward(including support plate and flywheel) and then with the unit split pull the flyweel and support plat off the back of the motor. Then swap the enging and attach the rear engine support and flywheel and then slide the front end back to attach to the rear of the tractor. Like this link shows.
Untitled URL Link
Untitled URL Link
The rails are not attatched to the support plate unless the tractor is bolted together so that is not an issue. (I bolted the rails to the plate rather than letting all that weight hang there while the tractor was split) The plate is bolted to the motor. I would take the clutch and flywheel off if the tractor is already split because you will have to do it anyway. Why deal with it!?! (Unless you have two clutches and are keeping with the two engines?)
Anyhow. You splitting stands are bolted to the frame rails and they will hold the front half up with or without the engine. In the process you could hook the engine up to the cherry picker to support that and then take the front mounts off. Then you are done IIRC.
Anyhow. You splitting stands are bolted to the frame rails and they will hold the front half up with or without the engine. In the process you could hook the engine up to the cherry picker to support that and then take the front mounts off. Then you are done IIRC.
Owen Aaland
Well-known Member
You can and it will work, however you original post made it sound like you were going to support the rear of the tractor from the frames and roll the engine forward.
For saftey when supporting the engine like the picture always use dowel pins and then at least one set of bolts in frame rails to back plate when sliding apart. Do not remove frame rail to back plate support unless engine is supported from above or other. Front engine mount is a slip fit on the front engine cover and can let the engine fall at least down in the frame rails if frame rails are not supported to rear plate or in other ways. Good luck
You've ignored the front engine support here.
There is no practical way to leave that with the engine rails, due to the front engine pulley needing to be removed first.
If you don't remove the engine rails, you will need to slide the engine off the rails from the back. Is that even possible? I thought the flange on the rear end of the rail covered over the channel.
It is much easier to remove the bolster and front end assembly first, then remove the side rails, then pull the engine off the bell housing with a cherry picker.
There is no practical way to leave that with the engine rails, due to the front engine pulley needing to be removed first.
If you don't remove the engine rails, you will need to slide the engine off the rails from the back. Is that even possible? I thought the flange on the rear end of the rail covered over the channel.
It is much easier to remove the bolster and front end assembly first, then remove the side rails, then pull the engine off the bell housing with a cherry picker.
The clutch and flywheel are easy to remove, just heavy. I work alone and removed the engine from my Super M last week. Rolled front forward using a splitting stand. Removed clutch, flywheel and rear plate. Supported engine with engine hoist and took bolts out of front mounts. Lifted engine up and out with the help of a long screwdriver to aid in clearing the front mounts. Also removed the head before removing engine. The engine itself is very heavy MD probably heavier--the lighter you can get it the better. There is no reason to slide it out the front or back, just lift it with a hoist.
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
The Md bolt's on top of the rails. You must be thinking of the M?
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