3288 injection pump

I need some help with priming my pump on 3288 with German diesel. I cannot get fuel to go through the pump and into the injectors. Does anybody have any ideas. Thanks

Hi Travis, I never worked on the 6 cyl D-358 only on the 3 and 4 cyl models. I open the bleed screws on the fuel filters, use an air gun to slightly pressurize the fuel tank by sticking the air gun in the fuel tank filler hole and stuffing a clean cloth around it, then close the bleed screw on the primary fuel filter when the air bubbles stop, repeat for secondary filter.
Loosen a couple of injector lines at the rear of the injection pump. I don't know if 6cyl has a START position if so put it on START and 3/4 throttle then crank the engine. CAUTION DO NOT crank starter for more than 30-45 seconds at a time and allow cool down time for the starter, also becarefull of the high pressure fuel at the loosened injector lines.

JimB

I am a little past that. I have fuel at the pump and even on the return line at the pump. I tried air without success and just tried a in line electric pump between the filters and the pump. I took off an inspection cover and I have fuel inside the pump, but nothing at the lines at the head of the pump or the injectors. The cam inside the pump is moving properly but I am afraid to take anything wale apart.

Was it running ok before you had this problem or did it up and die on you while running it. Might want to double check to see if it has an electric shutoff on back side of pump. I don't think this model originally used one but not sure, and in any case it could have been converted over the years. Them electric shutoffs on those pumps burn out and blow fuses etc or just plain stick closed. Other than that, you most likely have an internal problem in pump. I would carefully use some ether to get it running but then I have been around a lot of diesels and pretty much know how to feed them ether with out worrying about damage to engine. Some times cranking speeds can't get those pumps to pumping if they have been standing around or installed dry or run dry. Here is another thing with all diesel pumps. People change filters, don't bleed them properly, engine fires up, stops and now the internals of pump are air bound and it can be tough to get it out. That model is bad that way.

I just got the tractor from a friend who ran it out if fuel and let it sit for two years. I thought it was a waste of a good tractor. The shut off is still mechanical as far as I can tell it is working properly. But I cannot tell for sure from looking on the outside. Has anyone been inside the pump or is there a way to tell if it is bad. I don't want to get it rebuilt or get a replacement if it isn't the problem they are spendy.

If you absolutely cannot get fuel to come out of the high pressure fittings that go to injection nozzles, there are a few more tricks I have done. One time a guy dumped a full 5 gallon can of mostly water , little fuel in a 786. It died on him and he could not get it started. When I went out to work on it and found out it was full of water, I just said, it's coming into the shop. I drained every thing out, pulled the pump off, made a bracket to mount it to the frame rail on tractor, hooked up all the lines and turned it by hand with a speed wrench until I was convinced all the water was out of it. You can turn that pump a whole lot faster by hand than a starter will turn it so it pumps things through pretty good. As it won't run with out pumping fuel, you really have nothing to lose by trying this and if it won't pump fuel then it will have to be torn apart. They have a lot of close fitting metering mechanisms inside that could be stuck or maybe even corroded by now if it wasn't full of fuel while sitting. I used to actually do this to the Roosa Master pumps when I got done working them over also as it proved pump would pump and shut off and saved a whole lot of cranking time when installed.

Hi Travis, the pump on the 3288 should look similar to the one on the photo. The start position is when the fuel control lever is just touching the Shut-off plunger. Another thing to try is to mark the Power adjustment screw which is the screw that the Fuel control lever is limited by in the photo, now loosen the jamb nut on this screw and back it off to allow the Fuel control lever to goes as far forward as possible. You may have to loosen off the shut off cable to let the fuel control lever to move forward, becareful as now you will not be able to shut the tractor off if the shut off cable cannot pull the fuel control lever back to the shut off position. By adjusting the power screw all the way out this will allow the maximum fuel to the injectors. If you do get it to start return the power screw to the marked setting.
Pete suggested trying some ether. I have another suggestion try some WD-40 instead of ether. A couple years ago I was talking to a mechanic for a local construction company that have Cat & Cummins Diesels and he said they never use ether for winter starts anymore just WD-40. He said much better for engine.

Good luck
JimB

OK I have some ideas now I will let you know how things turn out. Thanks for the help