re-post with more info-fresh 460 gasser over haul- but still

So I pull the dist off and and pulled it apart. I found that the shaft has some definate wear issues. It did have some side to side play. I removed the pin which holds on the bottom piece which goes over the tongue of the oil pump shaft and the pin was worn in a way that would indicate that the oil pump shaft is bent. After pulling the dist shaft out of the housing I noticed that the bottom bushing was worn on one side more towards the end and the other side was dark and not worn at all. So I called around and found a reman distributor from a shop who works on everything but works more on IH stuff. Cost me 175.00 and it came with points/cap and all appeared to be new.

Drove home and installed the new dist. Was disappointed when the bobble was still there. I then loosened the hold down bolts while runinng and the whole dist was wobbling in my hand. If was totally noticeable by sight after the bolts were loose. I moved it a little but it was still wobbling and it felt like it was grinding a bit. Shut her down and took it off.

Is the oil pump shaft bent???? why and how would it bend? Can a bent shaft wear out the housing that holds it and in short ruin a block? I'm afraid if I replace the oil pump I have damage to the block which will allow this wobble to continue with a straight shaft or not?

Is the cam bent?????

did I install the oil pump wrong?????? It only has two bolts.....

As with my first post a little further down the page this bobble was the same before the rebuild with the weak worn out motor and now after all the cash and machine work. Could I have a bent cam shaft? I would like to think that would have been discovered when it was reground and heat treated.

I have looked at the components in the parts manual. I believe there is a possible bent part.
Measuring the runout will require a dial indicator that moves side to side. (common in machine trades. Place this on the oil pump stub through the hole where the distributor mounts, touching the side of the connection. Have someone crank the engine by bumping the starter while you watch the dial. It should be less than .001" change. another way to check is to put a tube (even plastic stiff tube), about a foot long over the drive and rotate it. If the
mavement is kinked at the connection, it might be a bent oil pump shaft at the drive gear or above. If it seems to be following the oil pump shaft in a linear manor, but wobbling in a circle, I would suspect a non concentric cam shaft drive gear. Pulling the pump can be definitive, but a pain. Putting the dial indicator on the cam gear teeth and finding them to be not the same height as it turns would ba definitive as well. Jim

If you had dist bushings worn that bad I suspect the adapter housing that dist bolts to is worn where oil pump shaft comes up through to drive distributor. Not uncommon in those models. When oil pump is bolted in, the shaft must be free with no pressure against side of shaft and you often times have to tighten and loosen it a few times to get it centered properly with a free shaft and backlash between drive gear and gear on cam. The adapter housing just drives out of the block with a light press fit. Oil pump shaft is probably damaged as well, bent or worn or both.

I've been pouring over the IT book with not much info. from just looking at the oil pump I did not think the adaptor housing could be removed. No mention of it in the IT book. I'll take your word for it. How would a fella drive it out? I presume after the pump is removed a type of bearing diver would be used from under the motor. My concern is that this has worn everything out since the simptoms are the same as before when the motor was week. I might have to find someone who can check the backlash because I dont have the tools. Any resources that give a more details than my IT book?

a non centered cam shaft gear really sounds scary and may cause me to sit and cry for a while. After all the work rebuilding this. I was under the understanding that the cam shaft gear was machined into the cam and could not be moved. I would hope that uneven teeth would be an automatic check when its reground and re-heat treated. Or would it not be. Could it be off center because of new cam bushings? I would also think that the new bushings alone would correct the old condition unless the pump is worn out. How would that get moved or be moved. I never removed the cam prior to the overhaul and all the cam work was done by the shop except the reinstall which I did. With that gear being re ground and heat treated I would hope it would wear out the oil pump before the cam teeth.

If I go ahead and buy a whole new oil pump I suppose I can not be confident that all the backlash and end play is set correctly. I dont have the tools to check these items so take the new pump to the machine shop? Or is the backlash and end play pump specific and can be set correctly prior to installation?

I also have a question for pete23. regarding installation of the pump. you said I might have to tighten and retighten a few times to get it correct. How do I know if its correct especially if the drive shaft clearance in the bore is .0015-.003 ? I dont want to replace the pump and have to take the pan off a third time.

Depending on a variety of factors not known by anyone but the cam grinder, here is my take.
The distributorwobbles when a bit loose.
The reason for this is mechanical motion coming from the coupling between the oil pump drive gear and the distributor shaft.
The wobble is generated from either a bent end on the distributor, a bent or abnormally worn drive on the pump, a worn pump gear with teeth that engage the cam gear eccentrically, or a cam gear that is not concentric with the cam Centerline, and causing the oil pump drive gear to be pushed out and in.
I cannot tell you which it is, or if there is wear on bushings.
Measurement will do that, a set of telescopic bore gauges, micrometers and dial indicators are needed.
Cam bearings are not going to cause the issue.
Cam gears are hobbed into the cam metal, not added on. If a heat treatment process goes wrong, it can warp metal and cause issues. If the same cam that was in it is reground, and it was bad in the concentricity of the gear, it will not be fixed or checked buy the grinder. unless suspected, it was not.
If the wobble is not found by eye, it will be necessary to measure. Jim

thanks

Part # 7 in the engine diagram for 706 gasser has the adapter shown. There is no engine diagrams shown for yours, but it should be the same. caseih.com. search for parts. Jim

The holes for the mounting bolts on the oil pump have some leeway as far as positioning the pump. All you have to do after they are tight is feel the shaft of the pump to make sure it is free, like has a little back lash between cam gear and pump gear. If tight, just loosen bolts and wiggle pump around a bit and tighten and try again.