Super A Questions

Well, I bought my Grandpa's Super A back today. I looked at the Serial # on the tractor and shows it is a 1948 model. In the manual Grandpa wrote he bought it in April of 1970 for $1,185. It has a Woods L59 Belly mower on it still, rear wheel weights, along with front wheel weights.

My questions are:

1 - Where is the best place to buy a new muffler? I will attach a picture of the muffler as the clamp has slid down and came in contact with the hood and turned it black a little. In the picture you can see the muffler has the part # and IH logo in it. Would the dealer still have this muffler or would it be the same thing I could buy from one of the various companies that re-make parts for these?

2 - I am wanting to add a water pump to it as well. Same thing with that...am I better going to the dealer, or just buying one from a company making parts for these, or lastly finding a used on on ebay/auction and putting it on. I see if I went that route there is a rebuild kit you can buy as well.

3 - Driving it home, there is some play in the steering box. Would say anywhere from a quarter of a turn to half a turn. That is probably normal on these? Is there a way to tighten that up or just live with it? Once in awhile the front wheels will sway side to side a bit when your not moving the wheel, I am hoping there is a way to adjust and tighten up the front end or is this play in the gear box itself?

Thanks for any answers or recommendations. It will do some mowing again now that it's back to the farm and pulling around small implements around the farm yard. It was always really handy for backing in the disk into the shed in tight spaces.

Badger08,
The SA looks great! I have completey worn out a L59 on mine and found a good used one 2 yrs ago. You will get some "boil over" with warm tractor headed downhill. I add coolant as needed. I would not bother with water pump. Steering slop is to be expected, probably not an issue unless in road gear? Woods wants their mower deck 3/8" lower in front than back when sitting level. Makes a HUGE difference on the job they do. Look in manual or give me an e-mail if you like: [email protected]

Mufflers are available from CaseIH or tractor stores. The Stanley Brand seem to be OK but not long lasting and not true sound. Stainless Steel Mufflers are pricy but way long lasting.
If it needs a Water pump, and is not equipped with one. you will need more than just a pump, there is a block adapter, and belt as well as other components.
Steering box wear is in three places. Bearing on the end of the worm (check shaft for in and out as it is turned, None should happen)
Sector to worm. Could require a new gear or both of them if toast.
Third is the connection under the box where the arm attaches. There are two types. Woodruff Key, and square taper. Both give problems and are a likely issue. The Key can be ground or milled bigger and replaced with the next size.
the square shank can be built up and refiled to fit again, or a new arm can be used to fix it if the shaft is OK. Good luck and congratulations on keeping it in action. Jim

Janicholson and crookedwrench - I will try to answer you both in one reply.

CrookedWrench - I will email you about the mower, I do not have a manual for it but am sure one can hopefully be easily attained. (I have not looked online yet). That's what dad said is that mowing with it would push it enough that it would boil over slightly if you didn't watch it. And yes the slop in the steering is only in road gear. I have read on here to keep the front slightly lower on the Wood's mower. I will not mow with it this fall but in the spring will so will check it for adjustment then, along with greasing it and checking things over thoroughly.

Janicholson - Do you know though if Case/IH would have the same muffler as pictured? With the part number and the IH logo right in the muffler? If they had that or I could still get that I would prefer it. Otherwise all the ones I have seen don't have any writing on the muffler. I would probably get pay the extra cash and get the stainless steel muffler, as I am 24, might as well get the better muffler so it last's me longer! I have not researched the water pump thing to much, just seem some websites where it says it comes with the pump and gasket and looks to just bolt on, but sounds like there is more involved then that. A co-worker has a B and he added a waterpump to it, so was just going off that mainly. I will write down the info you passed along on the checking the slop in the steering. It's not a huge issue but if I could easily correct it I would like to. It will not be on the road much but still is nice for just normal driving as well.

Thanks for the help and glad you both like the tractor. It's my first 'red' one, so it will have to go along with my JD, and I am glad to have it back. I remember driving it a bit when younger when dad would let me.

Badger, good for you on getting your grandfather's SA. Unless the muffler is a piece of junk, I would keep it. There are NOS IH muffler's out there, but OH my my, hold on to your wallet.

As far as the water pump, if it doesn't have one, I wouldn't worry about adding it. If it had one, and is missing, call Burgh Implement in Pa. They have lot's of used parts. Not sure why your friend put a water pump on a B, but to each his own.

On the steering, I can only comment on the square tapered ones. I repaired mine by using Chevy starter shims. I cut the shim to length and also to width. Placed 1 each on 2 of the 4 sides of the square. I bent little tabs on top and bottom so they would stay in place. Worked well. You have to take the front axle off the pivot to get at that for the repair. Not a big job, just tedious. Helpful to have a 2nd set of hands when re-installing the front axle. I did it by myself, and can attest to the need for a 2nd person.

Best of luck.

Water pump can be added all you need is a new pump with pulley and longer belt nothing more. Steering play can come from many places start with the tie rods then to the arm where it fastens to the steering sector then the rest of play if still there would be in repairing the steering sector as there are bushings a bearing and a keyed gear. To repait the steering play just mite require removing the whole assy from the tractor. You will not be able to get a original muffler like that one but new replacements are available for around 25 and if the tractor is kept inside out of weather will last many years. I have rebuilt several steering problems and no two are realy alike its sometimes a little play here and a little play there and it all ends up with too much play. You trasctors play doesent have anything with what gear you are in the play will be the same in any gear you just notice it when going faster. If you decide to go with the water pump when you have the rasiator off and removing the steering sector that would be the best time to add the water pump. Ive done it with out removing radiator but i do have tons of experience on working with these little tractors. good luck

What Gene said pretty well summed up the muffler and steering situations. You should be able to find a manual for the mower on the Woods web site. I doubt that adding a water pump is needed or worth the time it would take. Redirect the same effort into flushing out the cooling system. That should be done even if you decide to add a water pump.

Gene you wouldn't happen to have any idea on the size of the belt needed would you?

Thanks, I am glad to get the SA back, and back on the farm! Well the muffler is junk. It is rusted through on the bottom pipe and the top pipe coming out of the muffler. Not much left keeping it on, as even the pipe clamp has slid down coming in contact with the hood. I found a NOS muffler on ebay that might be worth the money, that one should be good quality I would think.

As far as the water pump, the only reason I wanted to add it is Dad just mentioned mowing with it does work it as 1st gear is to slow and 2nd is almost to fast, so it will boil over if you push it hard. So just thought maybe adding a water pump would remedy that and be better for the motor.

I plan to next spring to go through the tractor and flush the cooling system, and all fluids/oils in the tractor will get changed and things will get checked over good.

Then in between crops of hay or something I will jack it up and did into the front end with the advice you guys have sent my way. I appreciate all the info you have provided!

You may not have a cooling problem but a lean problem. Any vacuum leaks will cause the engine to run hotter than it should. A very common source of vac leaks are stripped main jet plug threads in the carb casting. Alot of the reman carbs use a steel plug that strips out the threads, it should be a brass one.