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Cub issues

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SouthernFarmall

Member
I have had this Cub just sitting around the farm for a couple years. I knew it had some issues, but I didn't worry about them because the tractor was never needed. I have now decided I'm going to fix it up a little bit. I will appreciate any and all advice! Here are the issues I know of right now:

1. Overheating. It will start spitting water/antifreeze out of the the overflow hole within 10 minutes of running. I wouldn't think that would be enough time to even get it up to operating temperature!

2. Throttle control. The Cub will usually run okay, but I really only have two throttle positions - full throttle and low idle. It's usable the way it is, but it certainly gets annoying. I have no idea what could be causing this, but I have to assume it is the governor. I can move the lever through the full range of motion, but the governor doesn't respond until I have moved the lever all the way forward or back.

If I have any other problems surface, I will let you all know. Thanks!

SF
 
The first issue may be easy to fix. Do not fill it more than 3 inches from the bottom of thefill neck. This (and all farmalls old enough to be mentioned here do not get filled like a modern car, and have no reservoir for coolant beyond the top of the tank. It will pum out fluid until it reaches this level and then sto puking.
The other problem might be lubrication of the linkage. If not it could be play in linkage pins or holes. Work on the governor only after these are checked.
Farmalls in general only use 2/3 of the motion of the lever, Idle seems to be about 30 % to 50% of the lever stroke. GOvernors are best attacked with a repair manual, confidence, and a camera to be sure to get it together correctly. Jim
 
How do I check the height of the water? There is a round piece inside the radiator that prevents me from seeing very far into the radiator. In addition, when you say "bottom of the fill neck", do you mean where the filler neck begins to form the top of the radiator? By the way, I also added about 1 gallon of water/antifreeze recently, because the Cub had begun to steam from the overflow. I don't know how long it took for the tractor to lose that much fluid, but no coolant had been added recently. Thanks!

SF
 
my cub will keep the antifreeze level just above the top of the cooling fins, about an inch or so below the bottom seal area of the radiator cap. i generally fill er up and go mow for a while. it will spit out what it doesnt want and then stay at a happy level.
 
I just rode to the barn and checked the Cub. First of all, I apparently have a 7lb. cap on the radiator. I've heard that the cap should be unpressurized, but I'm not sure if that is correct. The fluid is approximately 1 inch below the bottom of the filler neck, or 2.5 inches from the top. I also checked for governor linkage slop, but I couldn't see any. Of course, it is dark and I couldn't see a whole lot.

SF
 
That is a pressurized system, leave the cap alone it is correct(if it is good, have it checked). If it is not holding pressure, or the atmospheric valve (little poppet on the very bottom) is loose, it should not be)).
The measurement should be from that seat at the bottom, but it is not to be measured, it is the idea. I think one inch is still too much water. Jim
 
i remember when i bought a new rad cap from the dealer about 10 years ago, there were two radiator caps available, a "short " one and a "long" one. i was just looking on the case i-h site, there is a serial number break at 248124. that number and below uses rad cap 351030 r1 and above that serial number part number 351030r91. the difference was one cap the spring and seal was longer. i had the wrong cap on mine, and the seal did not touch the lower sealing surface on the radiator neck.
 
wander over to farmallcub.com
great howto's on fixing your cub
the governor problem is very common ands needs to be addressed in an orderly matter
the cooling system is thermo syphon
NO water pump
as the water gets hot in the engine it raises up to the top of the radiator where it cools down and drops to the bottom and then back to the engine
water flow speed is all based on how hard the engine is worked
NOW 10 minuteas is real fast unless you have a 59" belly mower on it, if just driving it around and it acts like that then you need to check for head gasket leakage
like I said all this and a lot more covered over on Farmallcub.com in greater depth
GOOD LUCK
Ron
also look up when the next cubfest will be close to you and try to attend, lots of fun
 
The cub is most certainly NOT a pressurized system! Put a non-pressurized cap on the radiator (available at Tractor Supply).

You can see in the radiator just fine if you look AROUND the tube at an angle with a flashlight. If the coolant level is above the fins with a cold engine it is fine.
 
Thermosyphon cooling systems accumulate crud in the lower radiator housing and in the bottom of the block around the cylinders.

Remove the lower water manifold and flush the block and engine block.
 
Ron, Matt and Gene are right. Overheating too quickly, remove the lower water neck and flush both the bolster and as much as you can get to in the block. Toss the pressure cap. Check the spring on the governor, it may be broken. Also check the rod that goes into the side of the governor, there is a woodruff key in there that wears and causes slop on the shaft and limits throttle control.
....and hey Ron! Great to see you posting! Hope you are doing well!
 
With respect, cubs after a certain date? were pressurized. The following is from the Parts on line.
15 1 365892R91 CAP CAP, radiator, pressure type, special

Jim
 
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