C, day 1 progress

souNdguy

Well-known Member
Interesting tractor to work on... got all the way down to the pulley.

still don't see any threads in there ;) hole is only as deep as the nub on the hand crank. still havn't probed it with a pick to see if it's just packed full of 60 year old crusd that is as hard as cast iron.. etc.

also.. a question on how to adjust that fan belt.. interesting setup on that top hose connection with 3 bolts, and the lil track the fan pulley bolt/sgaft slides in. I didn't take the time to try to disassemble it too much.. just took fan off and the 3 bolts out and se it to the side, see there is a nut in a track on back, thus it cannot turn, and then a nut on the front of that.. it didn't feel like it turned either.. so?? give me some hints on that one.

thanks

soundguy
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As to the fan belt, I try to move it up into the slot with a screw driver, and attempt to hold it while I tighten the front nut. Yours might be rusty if it hasn't been moved for a long time.
 
There is not a bolt or any thing from the front that holds it on. Some if I remember right had a lock screw on them but do not remember for sure. They are in fact a press fit so you have to pull them off with a puller and then press them back on with a press of some sort or beat them on but to beat them on you have to be careful
 
A bearing splitter (heavy) or a 1/2" thuck "U" plate and a puller is needed to remove the pulley, Press fit and been there for years and years. All other methods, even 3 jaw pullers will break the cast iron. See archives for Puller pics. Some are ysing hydraulic jacks in them to get it done. I have had one in a press with twenty ton on it before it budged.. Jim
 
[b:57588865ce]Looks good so far.
I bet you forgot my tire size question ... :D


Maxx[/b:57588865ce]
 
Good times ahead. Patience. To adjust fan on mine I had to grind an open end wrench thinner to fit on the front nut between fan pulley and mounting bracket. The rear nut is locked in the channel in back of mounting bracket. Also had to use some form of a pry bar in just the right spot to raise fan. Could have used three hands. Good luck. Brian
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All well and good but you may need four hands if the nut to the rear turns in the slot (mine does) which implies that the guides are stripped out. I usually end up with a bar under one arm, one hand holding a open end wrench on the back nut and a thin open end on the front bolt. It often takes more than one try to get the belt tight.
 
I've been cleaning out my shed that I keep my tractor, Toni, in. I have a bunch of wood blocks that I considered throwing away, burning, something. After viewing your pic's Soundguy I think it best to keep my blocks of wood. I agree with the earlier post that said there are good times ahead but then you wouldn't be undertaking this project if you didn't enjoy what you are doing right now. So, maybe the good times are right now too. You're doing great with the pic's and updates.

Thanks.

LW
 
Here's John's puller he had made at his local metal shop using a bottle jack or you can use a hydraulic ram. Hal
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OK, cool, I guess I'm not a moron...yet.

That's the way it LOOKED like it was suposed to adjust.

the nut in back IS locked into a channel. it's not stripped out.

and there was a nut on the front side of that to sandwich it. my nuts were just froze to the shaft I guess ( sounds bad don't it! ).. in any case.. at least I was going about it right.

i'll let it soak in some loosenjuice while i do the rest so that i can tighten / loosen that front nut. And I figured as much on the prybar issue to tension it.

I had a car that you pryed up on the alternator to tensionthe fan belt. was another 3 hand job..

thaks for the guidance guys.. in case I forget to mention it it is ALWAYS appreciated.

soundguy
 
OOPS! ( head slapping sound ) I did.. sorry about that.

I work a double / split shift today, and run home in between to grab a clean shirt. when i do I'll jot downt he tire sizes and post back in this afternoon.

sorry about that.

when i got home last night after making dinner for the wifey, I had 2h45m of tractor time and tried to get as much done as I could.

i'm moving slow on this one. if it was a ford I'd likely have had the front off already and ready to go back on.. but I'm still learning these red ones. :)

taking the rad and shroud and shutters off was a bit of a chore. they don't five you much play to attach those 2 big hoses!!

soundguy
 
yep.. got the bearing splitter and the backing plate and a bottle jack .. torched the plate out last night. i'm actually 'ready' to pull at this point.. just ran out of sunlight and time to work on her. next work time will be wed afternoon.

soundguy
 
yep.. mine is a fixed pulley.

i assume my nut is just froze up a bit.

i'll let it soak in pb blaster while i do the rest of the work.


thanks


soundguy
 
must be rusty. back nut / slot is still good though.

will soak in penetrant while I do the rest of the work.

thanks

soundguy
 
Turn the nut on the front. The track should hold the nut on the back. Soak it good a few times while you are working on the pulley. Like I said before, not all cranks are threaded.
 
well, if this one ain't threaded.. then i guess i have to make up a collar that fits right around the ratchet pawls and then cap that collar and then drive it on... correct?

soundguy
 
One word of caution with the blocking - probably goes without saying - but make sure you block the rear wheels real good, in both directions.

I've got mine up, front end off, and had the shift cover off - playing with the gears.

Just hand turning the gears, the tractor moved ahead 6" with almost no effort. Could also happen if you're in gear and hand crank the motor.

Mine crept right up to the edge of the blocking. Could have gotten ugly if I went another inch or two.

Just throwing it out there as something to remember.
 
yep, parking brake is set, and rear wheels are blocked ont he front side with concrete tubs, and on the rear with actual wheel chok wedges.

I double cribbed it too. the one under the bellhousing that is all wood is holding 95% of the weight, and then wood on jackstands under the torque tube is just there as a safety.

soundguy
 
My pedals are off, so brakes are disconnected.

Had some blocks around the wheels, but they just didn't catch enough when it moved.

I really was surprised at how easy it was to spin the gears and move the tractor.

Again, not critiquing your set up - looks safe enough. Just throwing it out there as something to keep in mind, since it was so recently one of those "yikes" moments for me!
 
tires:

front.. car maypops T 125 70 D15

rear.. 9.5-36 on 8" rims ( 9-36 )

sorrrry it took so long :(
 

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