I have a question for you. Yesterday I was combining with my 403 that I put a 301 diesel in, and it got so hot it quit. (I was watching the temp gage but apparently it is not accurate) I was able to start it a few minutes later (it had a ton of blow-by) and backed it up out of the row and shut it back down as it was not cooling off. (There was a strong wind blowing on the engine which helped a great deal) I let it sit for a couple hours and noticed the fan belt had been eaten out leaving just the outside strip. I put on a new fan belt, added a quart of oil and two gallon of water and started to combine again. The engine does not knock, and there is no longer any blow-by or blue smoke. Is it possible I got lucky and did not hurt anything, or when ever an engine gets so hot it quits it is guaranteed damage somewhere. Thanks for your advice.
- Thread starter d282
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Allan in NE
Well-known Member
Had a 966 one time that used 2 quarts of oil when pulling hard since it was new.
Same thing, darned fan belt was slipping and I got 'er so hot that I'd thought I'd ruined the motor.
Fixed the fan belt thing and it never did use any oil after that. :>)
Allan
Same thing, darned fan belt was slipping and I got 'er so hot that I'd thought I'd ruined the motor.
Fixed the fan belt thing and it never did use any oil after that. :>)
Allan
For what it's worth - I did that in my last car.
Couldn't figure out why it was running so rough and stalling - impatiently kept trying - finally realized, with a smack to the forehead, that it was overheating.
Made me cringe thinking of what I just did to the poor cylinders, and valves, and bearings, all warping and melting...
But I put another 200,000 miles on that engine without so much as a hint of trouble.
And tractor engines are even more forgiving.
You may have shaved a little time off its life expectancy, but as long as it's running ok now, that's what counts.
I'd change the oil, just to apologize to the poor thing, but other than that, I wouldn't worry about it.
Couldn't figure out why it was running so rough and stalling - impatiently kept trying - finally realized, with a smack to the forehead, that it was overheating.
Made me cringe thinking of what I just did to the poor cylinders, and valves, and bearings, all warping and melting...
But I put another 200,000 miles on that engine without so much as a hint of trouble.
And tractor engines are even more forgiving.
You may have shaved a little time off its life expectancy, but as long as it's running ok now, that's what counts.
I'd change the oil, just to apologize to the poor thing, but other than that, I wouldn't worry about it.
I realize I am talking apples and oranges here, but back when I was "young and dumb" (as opposed to old and dumb) I bought a $29.95 store brand mower. Had a Clinton motor on it and the mower came partially assembled in a box. Of course I was in a hurry to get it going, so as I was putting the wheels and handle bar on it, I asked my young wife to open the oil fill cap and see if it came with oil in it. She said it had oil, so I gassed and started it up and started mowing. Within a few minutes, it started lugging down and died. Right away I knew what happened... no oil. I yelled at my wife to bring a quart of oil, while I pulled the plug wire and kept slowly pulling on the starter rope... luckily it was not totally seazed up. I added the oil and kept pulling the rope until it turned easy, put the wire back on and started it. That mower ran great as long as I owned it, maybe 5 -6 years, sold it to a neighbor on a garage sale and he used it for probably another 10 years... it may still be running somewhere. You may have gotten as lucky as I did.
Janicholson
Well-known Member
My opinion is that there is probable minor damage. It may be minor, but not irrelevant. A diesel, even under modest load, runs cooler than a Gasser. Heavy loads they are about equal.
Quitting is different than siezing. If it siezed it probably has scuffing on the piston skirts. There may be ring overheating snd loss of temper resulting in less (or uneven) wall pressure. Warped head/block can also be found.
The fact that it is operating with apparent normalcy is a good omen,
You may have been looking at smoke and emmissions from the belt, not the engine. If so it actually may be fine and dandy.
Test one is to do a check on the temp gauge, it must be reliable. If it is OK, I think you are much better off than if it proves faulty. Put the bulb in a small pan and heat it with a propane torch. when it boils (at your altitude) it will be at or near 212.
AN engine that is boiling out its coolant is not yet being ruined. when there are voids in the coolant, or it is dry, the temps wil get into the melt down range.
Test the gauge.
Repeat the check of coolant level.
Check the oil often.
Best of luck with it. Jim
Quitting is different than siezing. If it siezed it probably has scuffing on the piston skirts. There may be ring overheating snd loss of temper resulting in less (or uneven) wall pressure. Warped head/block can also be found.
The fact that it is operating with apparent normalcy is a good omen,
You may have been looking at smoke and emmissions from the belt, not the engine. If so it actually may be fine and dandy.
Test one is to do a check on the temp gauge, it must be reliable. If it is OK, I think you are much better off than if it proves faulty. Put the bulb in a small pan and heat it with a propane torch. when it boils (at your altitude) it will be at or near 212.
AN engine that is boiling out its coolant is not yet being ruined. when there are voids in the coolant, or it is dry, the temps wil get into the melt down range.
Test the gauge.
Repeat the check of coolant level.
Check the oil often.
Best of luck with it. Jim
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