C-263 exhaust manifold with broken ear

bc · Oct 22, 2011

Hi all, finally got the loader off my 2606 so I can start working on it. Got it cleaned up and pulled the manifold. Found the left/rear end of the exhaust manifold with a broken ear. Kind of a diagonal break that extends out a ways into the manifold. Never noticed it leaking before. Just wondering what is the best way to fix it? I will probably take it to a welder on Monday. I can probably get a pic tomorrow.

I pulled it because the intake was leaking. I found the gasket pretty much disintegrated.

I see that the box connecting the two manifolds is held by 4 long bolts. The small bolt heads are very rusty like the exhaust manifold itself. I'm wondering if I should remove them to check the butterfly valve inside? If they are likely to twist off then I won't mess with them.

Thanks in advance.

Janicholson · Oct 22, 2011

I think I would get it apart. The weld shop might be a good place to go after it, The intake can crack between the two castings and the plate is probably stuck. Jim

bc · Oct 23, 2011

Thanks Jim. I can feel the butterfly moving when I lift the weight but I don't really know what is inside. Can I blow air into the exhaust to see if it holds? My problem with the 4 bolts is that they are small and barely tall enough to get vice grips on and if the wrench doesn't turn easy then it is vice grip time. I'm also afraid those bolts might break easy.

Tom Fleming · Oct 23, 2011

can you post pictures of the crack? Might help with getting repair opinions. Depending upon where it is at, might influence when it can effectively be brazed or welded.

D7fever · Oct 23, 2011

it can be welded, better separated from intake, but can be done with them still together. Welding is the way to go, can be arc welded with ni-rod. The welding shop should know what to do,

Janicholson · Oct 23, 2011

It is difficult to give rusty bolt removal advice when the part does not """Need""" to be taken apart. Cutting off the heads of the bolts, leaving the shank to work with sticking out of the assembly is far easier than twisting them off just below the surface of the threaded portion in the second casting. But it is your call. The way to assess the floor of the exhaust to intake junction for cracks is to plug the intake port from the carb flange with a rubber plug, then lay it on its back so the ports are all facing up and pretty level then filling the intake ports with water. if they fill and none comes out the exhaust runners it is pretty clear there is no crack. Visual checks on the flap condition is probably harder. Mirrors or a bore scope might help, wjth good light, but difficult. Jim

randy hall · Oct 23, 2011

if you do not have a machine shop or work at one you will be a lot better off if you don't try to take those four bolts out.

Mike Bock · Oct 23, 2011

if you are paying some one to do work just buy a new one, welding might work ,be money ahead with new are aftermarket parts labor realy adds up to price of new parts fast

bc · Oct 23, 2011

Here is a pic of that broken ear. Part of the outside is included but it never leaked on the tractor. I do see that the mating surfaces of the exhaust manifold is kinda corroded but I assume the gaskets will take care of it.

Taking everyone's advice, I won't mess with that manifold heater box. The bolts are so rusted to the box it is like they are welded to it.

Also, I tried to remove the oil pan but the bolster is in the way. Looks like I have to jack up the front end, remove the back bolster mount and maybe the front bolster mount, and then roll the axle to drop the bolster. Is that right?

Thanks.

bc · Oct 23, 2011

Here is the entire manifold.

Tom Fleming · Oct 24, 2011

A good welder should be able to braze that or Ni weld that no prob.

C-263 exhaust manifold with broken ear

bc

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Janicholson

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bc

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Tom Fleming

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D7fever

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Janicholson

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randy hall

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Mike Bock

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bc

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bc

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Tom Fleming

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