300 will not move/roll.Its STUCK!

Copperdog

New User
After reading threads for years on YT and getting great help on several restorations I need some help. My son just purchased his next project a 1955 300 w/ ta. The tin is near perfect,engine free and nice options.
It will not move. We pulled shifter and checked rail alignment and movement. good but rusty. A little PB and it was freed up.Removed brakes,stll nothing. Opened other cover on platform and looked in to find lots rust. Pulled drain and got 2 gals. of water and 1 gal oil. Filled with 3 gal of ATF and 5 gal of diesel to let it soak.
Previous owner says it sat out for 3 years ( in Texas)but ran when parked. Could it just be from all the rust? Any ideas on the next move? Should I just get started taking the platform off now?
Thanks in advance for the help.[/quote]
 
Jack it up off the ground so you can move things.
Try each wheel (if one turns forward and the other
backward, the finals and differential are at least
free. Look in the cover for the belt pulley
(assumes it is a Farmall) and watch the transmission
to see if the gears move at all (block one wheel to
drive a back and forth motion into the trans). It
could have a broken shifter fork, allowing it to be
in 2 gears even with the rails aligned. Jim
 
We have the rear tires off (fluid had ate throught the rims) and it just has the center sections on the axles. Tried to turn them using 2 large pipes for levers going each way to see if we could get any movement.
no luck yet.
 
If it's that rusty inside the gear case I would not
want anything to do with it. But you do as you
please. The only way to know how bad it is is to
take it all apart. (and they don't come apart well
if they are rusty)
 
When I picked up my 300U it wouldn't move - had to take apart the disk brakes to move it. It had sat a few years also.
 
Well, maybe I am being a little to dramatic about the amount of rust in there. But if it takes more time, then thats fine. He is young and energetic and this could just be a learning experience good/bad.
Either way we spend time together and that is better then some of the other things young poeple could be doing these days.
Hate to part it out because the sheetmetal is just so nice and everthing comes apart so easy. No struggles getting it apart like the rusted stuff in our area.
I guess we may have to spend some time on it. But thats a good thing.
Thanks
 
It could have been in a flood from Katrina or ? If
the axles will not budge even a tiny bit, the rust
is serious. Are the brake disks removed? Jim
 
(quoted from post at 16:54:06 10/22/11) It could have been in a flood from Katrina or ? If
the axles will not budge even a tiny bit, the rust
is serious. Are the brake disks removed? Jim
The first thing we tried was removing the both brakes. No mention of the flood by previous owner but that doesn't mean they were completly honest. It has live pto but it would not spin free at first even though it was dis-engaged. It is able to spin now after soaking in diesel mixture for awhile. I think we will start the process of taking the platform off.
The only transmission experience we have had before this was on a 9n ford so any advice on this task would be helpfull.
Thanks,jon
 
If the brakes are removed, pull the bull pinion shafts out and see if the wheels turn. If not you realy have a problem unless its cold enough to freeze ice at that location. To pull the bull pinions, pry the plate the inside brake contacts and pull shaft out. If stuck there's a bolt hole in the shaft end so a slide hammer can be used. With the right setup the shaft and plate can be removed at the same time. Old brake disc on shaft and a pry bar will work also.
 
I don't mind buying parts from a parted tractor but the worse off a tractor is the more I like restoring them. Anyone can wash and paint a tractor. To me it's fixing the ones that people say are to far gone. Besides not to many old tractors that get restored are you going to make anything on. So what if I got $5000 into a restored tractor that might sell for $4000. I sure had fun fixing it. It's a hobbie and hobbies don't make you money. I don't think if I made money restoring tractor's I would enjoy it so much. Then it would be a job.
 
I am very curious about this, wonder if its just stuck in 2 gears, 300/350 were improved over the H/Super H in that you can remove the housing that the shift lever is mounted on the top of the deck with 3 bolts, then you can look down into shift lever notchs & see if they are lined up with each other in neutral. Older IH tractors are notorious for this as they wear the end of shift lever. Hope it is not serious.
 
I would take the platform off. Benefits of seeing everything inside and the ability to clean up is greatly improved with the top off. If you are truly going to restore this, no better way to determine what you have than pulling the top of the tranny.

Would be a shame to work it free, spend lots of time fixing and painting to find out a bull gear or similar has a broken tooth in it. One thing is that the statement, "it was running when parked". yeah, the engine might have been running, doesn't mean the tractor moved. It isn't often that a running working tractor get's parked and left to sit. ususally means something was wrong that the owner didn't want to deal with.

my 1928 Regular was running when parked too. Running 40+ years ago......

IMHO.
 
Just go to the effort of pulling the trans cover. If it turns out to be something simple, you need to clean out the inside anyway. I have a Super H that I "restored". Removing the trans cover is part of the procedure. Mine had pits in the bull gears from sitting in water for so long. I did not replace them as I assumed they were not that bad, but I cleaned everything up. If you get it to work before then some just put in kerosene, run it around for a while and drain it. IMO that procedure does not get it really clean.
 
(quoted from post at 08:14:14 10/23/11) Just go to the effort of pulling the trans cover. If it turns out to be something simple, you need to clean out the inside anyway. I have a Super H that I "restored". Removing the trans cover is part of the procedure. Mine had pits in the bull gears from sitting in water for so long. I did not replace them as I assumed they were not that bad, but I cleaned everything up. If you get it to work before then some just put in kerosene, run it around for a while and drain it. IMO that procedure does not get it really clean.
Started the process of removing the platform yesterday. Got a good start but fieldwork is leaving us with limeted time for now.
This will be the only way to do it right. I will post findings.
Thanks to everyone for the ideas and help.
Jon
 

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