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H Transmission Bottom Oil Seal

G

George Rausch

Member
Either that bottom oil seal or the one above it leaks bad. I'm trying the bottom one first. I have the Lift-All coupler out, and the three cap screws out, now I can't figure how to grab ahold and pull out the three-hole retainer thing. It rotates around easy, but I can't get ahold of it and I can't pull it out. Tried screwdrivers and paint-can openers. Advice? Thanks, guys.
 
Do you have the coupler drive hub out? it is the slotted item at the trans.
It takes a 1/2" flat bar and serious impact (or force). Looking at it it turns lefty loosy. CCW to remove. Jim
 
I have been whaling away at it, and have pulled hard as I can. I have the transmission in first gear, the brakes on, and rear wheels blocked. I am starting to climb up on the wheel blocks. I don't want to break trannsmissio teeth. Any advice??
If I could get am impact wrench on there, I feel sure it wouyld loose up. But can't figrure it.
 
IIRC I used my breaker bar and it came right off. I did use the big one so I got quite a bit of leverage.
 
I put a bolt through the coupler and put it back on the countershaft nut and put a 24" crescent wrench on it to give me more leverage when I did mine. I do recall the tractor rocking back and forth a bit, but I don't think you need to worry about breaking transmission teeth, the force you're generating shouldn't be as much as when the tractor is being driven, I don't think.
Zach
 
George -

There's a couple easy ways to hold the transmission countershaft from turning to facilitate removal of the pump drive coupling:


1 - Engage the PTO clutch, then hold the PTO shaft from turning with a large pipe wrench braced against the drawbar.

2 - Remove gear shift lever and use a large screwdriver to slide any two of the 3 shift rails into gear. That'll lock the transmission rock solid. Just remember to put all 3 shift rails back to neutral (centered) before replacing the gear lever!
 
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