Removing Farmall M radiator

Hello:
I"m trying to remove the radiator from my Farmall M, but I cannot get the 2 nuts off underneath. What do you use, i have tried everything, the bolts are on an angle to get there.
 
Yes, they can be a bear to get off. Typically the castle nut and cotter key are well rusted in place. Soak everything well with PB Blaster. Let set for a while. Soak again. Turn nut slightly back and forth. It may pop loose enough to get the cotter key out. If not, shoot the PB Blaster up where the stud goes into the radiator. Those studs are threaded in so most likely the whole stud will turn before the nut does. Good luck.
 
The last couple I removed twisted off. Was able to drill and retap with little problem after I got the rad off.

The suggestions everyone else has made are about as good as it gets.
 
Do you have the old wide front with the plate? If so the plate sets right over the holes used to get at the bolts. Rather than remove the plate & front end I used to cut a hole through the plate. Then you are right under the bolts.
 
the hotwrench is actually not too bad an idea. Not so much to cut them off, as it is to get them heated near cherry to "bust em loose".
 
Went to Sears and bought a hinged ratchet wrench. Kind of expensive but it did the job.
Have seen mechanics bend an open end/box end wrench to get access to the nut.
 
Ive never had any trouble what so ever in getting to the nuts on an M. Just turn the front wheels. I dont get all this hinged rachets and bent wrenches. Hs are a pain, but Ms, no problems, just a 1/2' rachet, 12" extension, 5/8 6 point socket.
 
John some tractors don't have the openings in the casting below the studs. Most times anymore I take one of the frame rail loose and remove the bolster mounting bolts from the other rail. Lift bolster off, lay it down and remove radiator. Not practical if there's no way to lift. I just don't like fighting the studs and nuts from below if there's a problem removing them.
 
Well, all 3 of my Ms, a 40 and 2 41s have holes to access the nuts. Every other M Ive worked on over the years have the same holes. Ive never worked on a 39 or very early 40, so those could have something different.
 
as far as the nut size, could vary. If it is the large, heavy duty nuts, they will be 5/8. IF they have been replaced at some time, they could be 9/16.
 

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