followup on my early 48 C, need some parts help

As I'm realitively new to red..any tips will be appreciated.

right now I'm looking at a very leaky front seal.

quick glance at the service manual tells me the seal is in the timing cover and I need to remove tins, front pediastal and perhaps governor and pulley and cover to repalce. shows the special puller setup to keep from breaking pully.

drawing is vauge... is it a taper shaft or straight diameter, and is there a keyway?

i don't see a retainer bolt.

what do you center the puller on since it has a crank ratchet front hub on the pulley.

also.. how do you get the pulley back on if no take down bolt?

a front seal and oil filter numbers will help as well as manifold gasket #, and timing cover gasket number.

if anyone has napa numbers or similar it will help.

also sugestions of favorite dealers / on line sellers. i'll try to get what I can from ytmag.. but i have NO local case/IH dealer ANYWHERE near me.. so all will have to be online or aftermarket from an auto store.

thanks

soundguy

Soundguy, I see your enthusiasm for your new red toy. Sounds like you suffer from "Front Pulley Anxiety"(FPA). Here's the cure; Relax, push the Ford out in the weather, shed the red one. A "C" is a nice useful piece.

Here's some basics: Go to the Case IH website. Find the "search for parts" feature. Type in Farmall C, and the parts book will open. Some bearing and seal numbers cross reference on auto parts websites.

Go to the archives here on YT. Type in Farmall front pulley. You will find a picture of the pulley removal rigging.

Crankshaft pulley is the tightest pulley you'll ever pull. Fear not, it will come off.
Crankshaft pulley is keyed. Shaft is straight. Front of crank is tapped for 1/2 course bolt. Press fit retains the pulley, not the bolt, cause the hand crank goes in there too.

I put together this rig for pulley removal. Bought an appropriate size bearing splitter(HF) to go behind the pulley. No 3 jaw pullers, you'll break the cast pulley. Then you need an approximate 6" high grade half inch bolt to thread into the crankshaft. Clean the crank's threads good with spray first. I used a 12" X 12" X 5/16 steel plate. Drilled two holes to match the bearing splitter's spread as assembled on the pulley. You need two long fine thread all thread/bolts between the 12" X 12" and the splitter. Then I used a 20 ton bottle jack with the base on the plate, and the top pad on the head of the 1/2" bolt in the crankshaft. Tight, but comes off.

You will need the front bolster off first, of course. Then Governor comes off. Distributer stays on. Pull the timing cover. Change seal and gasket. Now, I got my last front seal from Case IH, but I think I got the readi-sleeve from an auto parts store, cross reference the IH seal number, then a readi-sleeve.

Going back on: Leave the timing cover loose until you have it centered on the crank pulley, or the pulley all the way on. Now to press the pulley. I used a 2" galvanized pipe coupling, it fit the pulley perfectly. Then I used a piece of 5/16 steel plate about 4" X 4" with a 1/2" or slightly bigger hole dead center. Get another 1/2" grade bolt/all-thread, the one you used coming off is probably bent now, and thread it through the plate, coupling, and crankshaft hole. Tight, but goes on, till it hits its stop.

Case IH site has the oil filter number. There are two size canisters for my Farmall A's, but I think by the time the C came out they used the "short" filter. Again, use Case IH website, get a part number, cross it on the NAPA sight if you wish.

Yesterdays Tractors parts and books are fine. Messicks in Lancaster, PA is fine too, there websites gives you prices, mail order is prompt.
Most any Case IH dealer will mail parts.

How's the oil pressure on this C? Are the main bearings up to snuff for a front seal only?

Any more questions? There are many more knowlegable people than me on YT, only need to ask.
Best Regards,
Charlie

Charlie pretty well covered it, but I'll throw in a couple more comments.

The pulley will go back on much easier if you heat it. You can heat it quite a bit as it will cool quickly while you are installing it and it only needs to be cool enough to not damage the seal when it touches it. Some guys submerge it in boiling water for a while. Others let it sit a while in a toaster oven set around 250 or so. Obviously, you will need heavy gloves or oven mitts.

Another dealer that is good for mail/internet ordering of parts is Carter & Gruenewald Co in Brooklyn WI.

Here's what you need for removing the damper pulley as Bigdog made this for his Cub. Your local Napa store should have the seal. Look at the hub of the damper pulley for a worn groove from the old seal. If it has a groove you will need a speedi-sleeve to cover that area and a seal. Hal

Not all the crankshafts have a threaded hole in them, so I have read. But my 50 C and 53 SA do. So I just pulled the pulley on with a bolt, using washers over the crank fitting. I also have a 48 C, don't know if the crank has a threaded hole or not.

oil pressure is great.

I'll need to get that bearing splitter, and then the 1/" bolt hardware.

I didn't see threads inthere, but may be clogged with dirt,e tc.

thanks

soundguy

saved your message for reference, thanks.

I take it oil pan can stay on for just a front crank seal / timing cover issue?

any issues I need to be aware of onthe governor.

anything gonna spring apart and fly or be a bear in realigning.. IE.. do i need to witness mark anything?

will be ordering a full set of manuals on monday.

thanks

Ok, if the oil pressure is good, probably so are the main bearings.

Yes, get the bearing splitter first. Then you'll know what size long bolts, thinking back now, the ones in my splitter are actually 5/8" fine thread.

Threads are in there fairly deep. Yep, clean it out well.

Yes, oil pan stays.

Governor is no issue if it works well now. Just remove it and study the insides and set it aside.

There are timing marks on the cam, crank, and governor/distributer drive gear, but you will not be changing any thing there.

Manuals are good, and necessary, but don't tell ya everything.

thanks!

I figured this is a job where a manual ain't really needed. but I'm bad about preaching about getting manuals, so i try to follow my own advice.

the parts manual will help with me reding off the computer monitor for sure. and hte owners manual will tell me lube points.

for instance. i think I found a cap under the front pedistal to? drain? the lube.. but havn't found a fill for the front pedistal / steering box yet

cool.. pan stays, unbolt governor.. don't dink with it.. bolt it back on later, and no timing issues as cam and crank aren't coming apart.

ps.. gov works good. in fact, once engine is warmed a minute or two.. it idles low and takes load fine..

any idea if that pto shaft seal can be snached and repalced fromteh rear without disassembly? looks like it 'COULD' be.

thanks for all the help. If I get to be a pest let me know..


soundguy